Green Mountain 40 issue/air intake

[TEC45]

Hello. I am new to this forum and want to say I am thankful that I found it. I have been exploring different post trying to diagnose the issue of the fire smothering out in my new Green Mountain 40 with the door closed. I joined the forum hoping to gain further knowledge and in the future I can use that to help someone else.
I saw a couple post discussing a shiny metal piece on the inside of the primary air intake slot. Forum members labans and Zivo reported their findings. My stove has the same metal blocking most of the air intake hole. I will post pics with air control lever open and closed below. I was curious if anyone with a GM 40 has heard any more insight on this and why it is there.
I cannot reach Hearthstone. Their phone number is no longer active and they have not responded to my emails . My dealer was uncertain but is trying to reach out to them on my behalf.
Again thank you for your knowledge!
Todd

 

[begreen]

Can we assume that this problem is happening with the bypass open? The first thing to check is the firewood. If it is not fully seasoned, the fire is going to be hard to maintain. Have you tried burning some 2x4 construction scraps as a test?
This stove need strong draft. Describe the flue system on it from stove to chimney cap.

 

[TEC45]

Hi. Yes bypass open along with primary air control open . I was using scrap 2x2 pine lumber I cut in to even smaller pieces to season the soap stone. I have approximate 35 ft masonry chimney with liner. chimney is on outside wall and is straight. The stove is on the bottom floor. On my second attempt I opened the doors and had a fan going. Again stove drawing with door open but smothered with smoking when door closed. I will try again if we ever get some cooler weather here in NC. It was damp and on the milder side on my last try.

I am still waiting to hear from hearthstone about the metal plate blocking the air control hole. I am not sure why some owners report having them while others do not. I would appreciate an explanation from the company before I start taking my brand new stove apart. The customer service thus far from the company is disappointing so far. I am remaining optimistic. Thank you very much for the help.

 

[begreen]

Sounds like this may be sluggish draft due to a cold chimney. I suspect that once the chimney is warmed up the draft will greatly increase. I agree that the dealer should be working on this to get some answers from Hearthstone sooner than later. I hope you get an answer soon. Keep us posted.

 

[neverstop]

Have you tried elevating the wood on cold starts with small short splits loaded N/S? The primary air inlet is front center of the stove.

I've implemented this on my hearthstone and it solved my smoldering wood problems on startup with the door closed. Also top down starting method and preheating the flue with a heatgun helps.

 

[TEC45]

Thank you for your suggestions neverstop. I will give it a try.

 

[Hipster14]

Hi all. Just wondering how your air intake problem is going by now. We just got an Ambiance Hipster 14 (yesterday), which is supposedly the same as Green Mountain 40 and built by the same company. We followed the instructions for seasoning it on first burn and had the same problems you report. Also, air intake looks identical, i.e., more than half blocked before closing the air intake. Made a second fire later, and at first it was just as bad but then seemed to improve a little. Still seems lacking in air though. I see the suggestions about cold chimney, elevating the kindling, etc. Hoping we don’t have to use a heat gun! Sheesh. Will try everything recommended. But would love to know how it’s going with yours, and what tricks you are using. Thanks!!

 

[TEC45]

I have been meaning to place an update here. Short story is take that plate off if you have one.
I never heard from hearth stone or my dealer again. I went to a different dealer2 hours away who had GM 40 on the floor and found that it did not have that plate. The inspection date of that stove was a later date than mine. The owner of that store tried to get hearthstone on the phone while I was there but was unsuccessful.
Other than the nonexistent Hearthstone customer service I am enjoying my stove after taking the bottom out and removing the plate. I followed the recommendations by the folks in this forum which helped too. I first checked my draft in the flu. The stove has a slow draft at first. Cracking window/door and lighting paper on top of my kindling fire to heat up the pipe gets it going faster. We have really enjoyed it since. A big thanks to the people on this forum as I was out of answers before.

 

[Hipster14]

Thank you. This is gruesome news but I appreciate it. I want to make sure I understand. You removed the piece of metal that was blocking 2/3 of the air intake hole on the bottom of the stove, right? So now the hole is 100% open unless you close the air intake lever? And how closed does it get with the air intake lever at its most closed position? And.. if you don’t mind… how did you actually remove that piece of metal?? How hard was it to do?

 

[TEC45]

Hey. I want to make sure we are talking about the same piece of metal. In the above picture I am referring to the shiny aluminum piece. The air intake lever is wide open in the top pic and completely closed in bottom pic. You can see there is only a quarter inch difference between the two which doesn’t make sense and why I removed it. After taking heat shield off on bottom it’s held on by one screw.

 

[Hipster14]

Interesting. I’ll attach photos of ours. The photo that shows a lighter aluminum piece is in the most closed position. The other photo shows how it looks when in the most open position, and you can see no aluminum colored piece. So in our stove, it’s the light colored piece that moves back and forth when you move the air intake lever. I thought you were saying you removed the equivalent of the stationery dark piece that covers 2/3 of the hole. Did I get that right? Or did you remove the lighter piece that moves back and forth?

 

[TEC45]

Good news is it doesn’t look like you have anything to remove. The ”lighter” piece in my pics above was screwed On and did not move. The Air intake control door is Black on mine and slid across the aluminum piece as you can see in the second photo.

A couple other things I did. I made sure I had good draw up the flu.. I pushed my pipe back into my flu liner a little more and used a little insulation at the wall insert between the pipe and clay. I start the fire with the Air intake fully open and stove door cracked. The outside door as well has to be cracked. Good dry wood and it finally works. I think once you get enough heat up the pipe it will run. Hope this helps.

 

[Hipster14]

Oh! I see what you mean now about your photos. Thanks! I will keep trying and will use your tips. Fingers crossed.