gremlin in Enviro EF4

[Kristy]

If power is dropping out it the phase controller. You said you have an EF2 there, Take the phase controller from that and put it into the EF4. If it runs as normal. You have your answer.[/quote]

The EF2 doesn't have a phase controller. Is there any other test I can do to the phase controller to see if there is a problem with it? If indeed it is the phase controller is there any way to bypass it?

 

[jtakeman]

The EF2 doesn't have a phase controller. Is there any other test I can do to the phase controller to see if there is a problem with it? If indeed it is the phase controller is there any way to bypass it?

I have never tested on and I don't see any thng in the tech manual. I belive the test is if it drops power there is an issue with it. Thats about all the info I could dig up.

You are correct the EF2 doesn't. The phase controller is what varies the combustion motor. Where as the EF2 is full out line voltage and you adjust with the damper.

 

[Kristy]

The EF2 doesn't have a phase controller. Is there any other test I can do to the phase controller to see if there is a problem with it? If indeed it is the phase controller is there any way to bypass it?

I have never tested on and I don't see any thng in the tech manual. I belive the test is if it drops power there is an issue with it. Thats about all the info I could dig up.

You are correct the EF2 doesn't. The phase controller is what varies the combustion motor. Where as the EF2 is full out line voltage and you adjust with the damper.

So, because I am losing power to the combustion blower once it is plugged in (it reads 119 volts without being plugged in) then it IS the phase controller, correct? Is there a way to bypass it to see if the stove runs correctly without it (verifying it is the phase controller in the process)?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

The EF2 doesn't have a phase controller. Is there any other test I can do to the phase controller to see if there is a problem with it? If indeed it is the phase controller is there any way to bypass it?

I have never tested on and I don't see any thng in the tech manual. I belive the test is if it drops power there is an issue with it. Thats about all the info I could dig up.

You are correct the EF2 doesn't. The phase controller is what varies the combustion motor. Where as the EF2 is full out line voltage and you adjust with the damper.

So, because I am losing power to the combustion blower once it is plugged in (it reads 119 volts without being plugged in) then it IS the phase controller, correct? Is there a way to bypass it to see if the stove runs correctly without it (verifying it is the phase controller in the process)?

If you have a damper you can operate the combustion blower off of line voltage. Just remember every feed setting will require a damper setting change.

 

[Kristy]

The EF2 doesn't have a phase controller. Is there any other test I can do to the phase controller to see if there is a problem with it? If indeed it is the phase controller is there any way to bypass it?

I have never tested on and I don't see any thng in the tech manual. I belive the test is if it drops power there is an issue with it. Thats about all the info I could dig up.

You are correct the EF2 doesn't. The phase controller is what varies the combustion motor. Where as the EF2 is full out line voltage and you adjust with the damper.

So, because I am losing power to the combustion blower once it is plugged in (it reads 119 volts without being plugged in) then it IS the phase controller, correct? Is there a way to bypass it to see if the stove runs correctly without it (verifying it is the phase controller in the process)?

If you have a damper you can operate the combustion blower off of line voltage. Just remember every feed setting will require a damper setting change.

I just want to see if the stove will operate properly without it, then I'll know for sure it is the phase controller.

 

[Kristy]

Any idea how to wire it? I don't want to blow something from inexperience. Thanks for all the help.

 

[jtakeman]

Wire a lamp core to the motor and use line votage to run it. Tape the wires off from the phase controller so they don't contact the stove chassis. With the blower running the rest of the stove should go fine. It will pull in the vacuum switch so un by pass the other stuff. Might not want to run it too long!

I have an old tech manual at work that is more detailed on the older dial a fire. Might have something in it to test the phase controler. I'll take a look in the morning and post something if its in there.

 

[Kristy]

Wire a lamp core to the motor and use line votage to run it. Tape the wires off from the phase controller so they don't contact the stove chassis. With the blower running the rest of the stove should go fine. It will pull in the vacuum switch so un by pass the other stuff. Might not want to run it too long!

I have an old tech manual at work that is more detailed on the older dial a fire. Might have something in it to test the phase controler. I'll take a look in the morning and post something if its in there.

Thanks for the help. I can get the phase controller on line (not sure of the price) but I hate to plop down the money without knowing for sure. I do have a damper, so theoretically I could just run it like that permanantly, but I wouldn't want to leave it that way to sell anyways. Again thanks.

 

[jtakeman]

They run about $100 bucks, But I agree. Why spend it if you don't need to.

Digging through my notes, I did change one on an EF5(evolution) but it was totally dead. No voltage was supplied to the blower at all.

 

[jtakeman]

Don't for get what bear said. You'll need to control the draft with the damper!

Thanks for pitching in bear! ;-)

 

[jtakeman]

I checked the older tech manual and it basically saying the same, Wire the motor with a lamp cord. If the motor runs then check the controller. If the power drops with the motor connected. Then replace the phase controller.

 

[nailed_nailer]

Is there a dealer local to you, perhaps you could "borrow" a phase controller.


I assume you have the manuals,
EF-4
http://www.enviro.com/images/manuals-brochures/owners-manuals/C-10803 Instruction EF4 Domestic Owner's Manual.pdf
http://www.enviro.com/images/manuals-brochures/owners-manuals/EF4-Owners-Manual.pdf

I have a technicians manual for Enviro Pellet Stoves that no longer seems to be on the website.
I can PM it to you if you need it.

Also,
You could also call Enviro Tech Support and see what they say.
Only phone# I have for them is 1-888-285-2224

---Nailer---

 

[Kristy]

I checked the older tech manual and it basically saying the same, Wire the motor with a lamp cord. If the motor runs then check the controller. If the power drops with the motor connected. Then replace the phase controller.

OK thanks. Do I have to worry about completing a circuit with the wires on the phase controller for any other functions on the stove, or will every thing else run without it?

 

[Kristy]

Is there a dealer local to you, perhaps you could "borrow" a phase controller.


I assume you have the manuals,
EF-4
http://www.enviro.com/images/manuals-brochures/owners-manuals/C-10803 Instruction EF4 Domestic Owner's Manual.pdf
http://www.enviro.com/images/manuals-brochures/owners-manuals/EF4-Owners-Manual.pdf

I have a technicians manual for Enviro Pellet Stoves that no longer seems to be on the website.
I can PM it to you if you need it.

Also,
You could also call Enviro Tech Support and see what they say.
Only phone# I have for them is 1-888-285-2224

---Nailer---

Yes I have the manuals, thank you. I doubt they'd let me borrow one, but they'd be happy to sell me one I'm sure =). If I bypass the phase controller and everything runs properly (minus the adjustments of the damper) then I'll buy one on line and replace it so the stove is wired correctly. I just want to make sure it is the phase contoller. I muight just give them a call thank you!

 

[jtakeman]

I checked the older tech manual and it basically saying the same, Wire the motor with a lamp cord. If the motor runs then check the controller. If the power drops with the motor connected. Then replace the phase controller.

OK thanks. Do I have to worry about completing a circuit with the wires on the phase controller for any other functions on the stove, or will every thing else run without it?

No, Just isolate the wires and do not let them touch the chassis!

I called a mate that's a 24/7 stove tech. He says its the phase controller. Its the only thing that can drop out, But expected no juice as thats whats most commonly seen.

 

[Kristy]

So I bypassed the phase controller by wiring the exhaust motor directly, and low and behold, the stove ran normally. So it has to be the phase controller that was cutting the power to the exhaust motor. Monday I'll order a new phase controller and hopefully everything will be good. Thanks for all the help. If something else comes up I'll let you know.

 

[Kristy]

OK sorry for the very late reply, but I was waiting in delivery of the phase controller (for six weeks) and they ended up sending the wrong one . So I had to wait again another couple of weeks to get one that would work. So now the stove runs (yea!) but it won't shut down properly. If I turn the dial a fire low (1/4 on) while running, or if I turn the dial a fire off to shut down the stove, the exhaust blower stops turning and the room fills with smoke. I have replaced the exhaust motor, phase controller, and auger timer control module. The dial a fire does adjust the auger and exhaust blower past a certain point does function normally. I have no idea what is causing it. More help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[jtakeman]

Sounds like the 140ºF Exhaust temp sensor is opening to soon. This could happen if the damper is open too far or the switch is flaky.

 

[Kristy]

Sounds like the 140ºF Exhaust temp sensor is opening to soon. This could happen if the damper is open too far or the switch is flaky.

The damper is set at the factory and you aren't supposed to have to change it ( it doesn't mean it is correct though). Can you explain what is happening to make it do this? The stove will run happily along until I try to shut it down or lower the feed rate/ exhaust blower. I also ran it out of pellets to test it, and it shut down properly. I'm getting very frustrated with finding one thing after another.

 

[jtakeman]

The damper is set at the factory and you aren't supposed to have to change it ( it doesn't mean it is correct though). Can you explain what is happening to make it do this? The stove will run happily along until I try to shut it down or lower the feed rate/ exhaust blower. I also ran it out of pellets to test it, and it shut down properly. I'm getting very frustrated with finding one thing after another.

The phase controller varies the voltage to the blower. Each controller maybe slightly different in the amount of voltage it applies to the blowers. This new one could be suppling slightly more, So you might need to close the damper slightly. I didn't see a mag setting in the manual, But its likely there could be and maybe the stove will need to be checked with a mag.

 

[Kristy]

The phase controller varies the voltage to the blower. Each controller maybe slightly different in the amount of voltage it applies to the blowers. This new one could be suppling slightly more, So you might need to close the damper slightly. I didn't see a mag setting in the manual, But its likely there could be and maybe the stove will need to be checked with a mag.

Please expain in laymans terms as I am not familar with electrical terminology/equiptment. The incorrect part I was sent was a 1 amp version of the phase controller. The 1 amp version had the same thing happen when I installed it. I'm pretty sure it's not the voltage as they have all been 120vac as specified on all the parts. According to the manufacturer the part I received should function the same as the one that went bad (the defunct phase controller was from the same manufacturer). I am exceedingly frustrated. What keeps the motors running after shut down until the stove has cooled?

 

[jtakeman]

Please expain in laymans terms as I am not familar with electrical terminology/equiptment. The incorrect part I was sent was a 1 amp version of the phase controller. The 1 amp version had the same thing happen when I installed it. I'm pretty sure it's not the voltage as they have all been 120vac as specified on all the parts. According to the manufacturer the part I received should function the same as the one that went bad (the defunct phase controller was from the same manufacturer). I am exceedingly frustrated. What keeps the motors running after shut down until the stove has cooled?

As you turn the dial, The phase controller adjusts the voltage applied to the blowers. This is the reason you don't need to adjust the damper for each heat setting like the older EF2 and 3's. But its unlikely the phase controller will be exactly the same as the old one you replaced. It could be applying higher voltages and the fans are running faster causing slightly more draft.

140ºF Exhaust temp sensor is what tells the phase controller to shutdown the exhaust blower.

 

[Kristy]

So it's the 140' exhaust temp. sensor that keeps the stove running after shut down, correct? Is there any way to test the 140' temp. sensor? I realize I can by bypass it, but if I turn off the stove with it bypassed, will it shut down correctly? I'd like to make sure the sensor isn't the issue with shut down before I go messing with the damper and potentially screw something else up. Thanks for the help.

 

[Delta-T]

does the convection (room air) blower also shut down at the same time as the combustion blower?

 

[Kristy]

does the convection (room air) blower also shut down at the same time as the combustion blower?

No, just the combustion/exhaust blower stops. I bypassed the 140' temp. sensor and it still did it when I turned down the dial a fire or shut the stove down. Any ideas?