Hampton HI300 owners on Top/Down & N/S Burning

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

jscs.moore

Feeling the Heat
Sep 9, 2015
291
Eastern PA
Thanks to the Hampton HI300 owners and begreen for recent advice on using the top down method for starting fires and the benefits of North/South loading of the firebox. I tried both methods yesterday and had the best burn of the season (I'm still a newbie and I don't burn 24/7, mostly evenings and weekends right now). Anyway, I was very impressed with how quickly & effeciently the top down method works to get the fire going well. I also noticed with the N/S loading that I was able to get a really strong fire going with very robust rolling flames and the best secondaries coming off the baffles that I've seen yet! It was a beautiful thing to sit and gaze at for a few hours:)

So here's my question...after starting the fire with top down method, how long (minutes?) & far (down to the coals?) do you let it the starter fire burn down before putting in the full load of North/South splits for the full burn cycle?? And after you let the initial top down fire burn...is it imperative to rake the coals forward to get a better burn for the full load you are about to place in the firebox?

Final question...when you are ready to place the full load in, do you really pack all the splits in you can fit...right up to the baffles? That's the one thing I haven't yet done, still a little concerned about overfiring the insert but haven't had any issues so far. In fact, according to my Condor stove top thermometer (above the glass door)...I haven't had the insert over 450 degrees yet?
 
That sounds like too much work to me. I just started a fire in a cold stove (because I was fooling around with the pellet boiler).

I get downdraft with cold stove.

put wood in n/s, put fire starter square on bottom/middle, add crumpled newspaper, open air, crack open window, light starter, light newspaper, keep door cracked open, close window, close door when fully involved, close air in stages, enjoy fire.
 
Thanks to the Hampton HI300 owners and begreen for recent advice on using the top down method for starting fires and the benefits of North/South loading of the firebox. I tried both methods yesterday and had the best burn of the season (I'm still a newbie and I don't burn 24/7, mostly evenings and weekends right now). Anyway, I was very impressed with how quickly & effeciently the top down method works to get the fire going well. I also noticed with the N/S loading that I was able to get a really strong fire going with very robust rolling flames and the best secondaries coming off the baffles that I've seen yet! It was a beautiful thing to sit and gaze at for a few hours:)

So here's my question...after starting the fire with top down method, how long (minutes?) & far (down to the coals?) do you let it the starter fire burn down before putting in the full load of North/South splits for the full burn cycle?? And after you let the initial top down fire burn...is it imperative to rake the coals forward to get a better burn for the full load you are about to place in the firebox?

Final question...when you are ready to place the full load in, do you really pack all the splits in you can fit...right up to the baffles? That's the one thing I haven't yet done, still a little concerned about overfiring the insert but haven't had any issues so far. In fact, according to my Condor stove top thermometer (above the glass door)...I haven't had the insert over 450 degrees yet?
I had all the same questions. With my initial fire it usually left to burn fast hot and quick its really just to heat up the stove get the fan going and getting a good coal bed for the next load which will be the actual heating fire. I rake some forward mostly just makeing them level breaking them up and nice and oraange. Usually at this point its not a huge coal bed because u only had one initial load so overfireing wont be a problem. So goahead and cram all the wood u can fit let er rip and slowly close air until u get a nice sustained secondary and thats it really
 
I had all the same questions. With my initial fire it usually left to burn fast hot and quick its really just to heat up the stove get the fan going and getting a good coal bed for the next load which will be the actual heating fire. I rake some forward mostly just makeing them level breaking them up and nice and oraange. Usually at this point its not a huge coal bed because u only had one initial load so overfireing wont be a problem. So goahead and cram all the wood u can fit let er rip and slowly close air until u get a nice sustained secondary and thats it really
Thanks for the feedback...this is very consistent with the video begreen posted on top/down burning and reloading (although that video uses a woodstove). I think my nex big challange (as a newbie) is to really pack the firebox (N/S) with splits after the initial start up fire. Like I said, I've been a little reluctant to do that for fear of overfiring but I definitely have had no problems with that so far. It's going to be really cold out tonight so maybe I'll give it a try!
thanks
 
Thanks for the feedback...this is very consistent with the video begreen posted on top/down burning and reloading (although that video uses a woodstove). I think my nex big challange (as a newbie) is to really pack the firebox (N/S) with splits after the initial start up fire. Like I said, I've been a little reluctant to do that for fear of overfiring but I definitely have had no problems with that so far. It's going to be really cold out tonight so maybe I'll give it a try!
thanks
With alittle attention its pretty hard to have a fire completely run away on you but with great wood and a hot ass stove and tons of coals its possible. Just let it burn down good before a full reload or just throw one or two.But the day it takes off I promise you will know what it looks like and dont freak lol
 
With alittle attention its pretty hard to have a fire completely run away on you but with great wood and a hot ass stove and tons of coals its possible. Just let it burn down good before a full reload or just throw one or two.But the day it takes off I promise you will know what it looks like and dont freak lol
Thanks again...started a top/down fire when I got home after work with 25 degree temps at heap pump running constantly. I let it the firebox can nice and hot and let the it burn down to some coals. Then loaded the firebox to the top with nice dry Oak splits (N/S) and let it go. I finally got my Condor stove top thermometer to read around 520 degrees for the first time, with the firebox burning beautifully with nice secondaries coming off the baffles. The whole downstairs (2000 sq ft Center Hall Colonial) has stayed right around 73 degrees! I'm going to let the load burn down to a good hot coal bed and the reload for an overnight burn. The HI300 is a beautiful insert...especially when burning the way it should! Thanks again for the feedback!
 
Thanks again...started a top/down fire when I got home after work with 25 degree temps at heap pump running constantly. I let it the firebox can nice and hot and let the it burn down to some coals. Then loaded the firebox to the top with nice dry Oak splits (N/S) and let it go. I finally got my Condor stove top thermometer to read around 520 degrees for the first time, with the firebox burning beautifully with nice secondaries coming off the baffles. The whole downstairs (2000 sq ft Center Hall Colonial) has stayed right around 73 degrees! I'm going to let the load burn down to a good hot coal bed and the reload for an overnight burn. The HI300 is a beautiful insert...especially when burning the way it should! Thanks again for the feedback!
Is your hampton new? Just curious what the new Firebox is listed in cubic feet
 
-2f this morning. Had the fan on high. Noisy but really kicks out the heat.
 
-2f this morning. Had the fan on high. Noisy but really kicks out the heat.
Hey Velvetfoot, yeah...got down to around 12 degrees overnight in my area of PA. I had the HI300 cranking last night and all went well. Except...I'm not really sure how accurate the my Condor stove top thermostat is? I place it on the middle/top of the glass door where the dealer said it should go. I noticed last night after my second full load that the firebox was getting really hot, but the Condor was only reading around 400 to 425...just getting back to cruising temp (this was just after reloading before bed). About 10 minutes later I noticed the orange glow at the top of the firebox where the air comes out from the blower. I was not freaked out about overfiring because the Condor was only reading about 425...so I just shut the air intake way down and put the fan on high and the orange glow went away within about 10 minuts or so. Do you have any issues/history of getting accurate readings with a stove top thermometer on the HI300? I called the dealer and they said because of the cast iron...the stove top thermometer will take longer to show the real temp in the firebox?? Not sure if that's helpful if I'm thinking if the Condor is showing I'm just at cruising temp (400 to 425) and the firebox is really much hotter than that??
 
I was not freaked out about overfiring because the Condor was only reading about 425...so I just shut the air intake way down and put the fan on high and the orange glow went away within about 10 minuts or so.
I would say: "be freaked out". You don't want orange. I had it only once. Don't go crazy with the air on reload-immediately drop it down to as little as you can get. I've never used a stove top thermometer. When I checked temperature, I've aimed an infrared gun at that area that glows, lol. I don't use a thermometer at all now. You can tell what it's doing because there's a glass door, and of course the orange glow. :) Just kidding about the orange glow: I'd avoid it totally. Don't let that stop you from loading it up in these cold temps though. Just keep an eye on it and bump down the air asap.

What I wonder is, can you get more btus out of a load of wood with the fan on high? People will argue no, but I'm thinking yes. :)
 
I would say: "be freaked out". You don't want orange. I had it only once. Don't go crazy with the air on reload-immediately drop it down to as little as you can get. I've never used a stove top thermometer. When I checked temperature, I've aimed an infrared gun at that area that glows, lol. I don't use a thermometer at all now. You can tell what it's doing because there's a glass door, and of course the orange glow. :) Just kidding about the orange glow: I'd avoid it totally. Don't let that stop you from loading it up in these cold temps though. Just keep an eye on it and bump down the air asap.

What I wonder is, can you get more btus out of a load of wood with the fan on high? People will argue no, but I'm thinking yes. :)
Okay...that's very helpful info! I think because it was so cold last night I wanted to crank the insert up right after the reload, so I stuffed the firebox full and left the air wide open for about 15 to 20 minutes, that's when I started to see the orange glow:( Just so I'm clear, it's better after a full reload to bump down the air right away rather than allowing the firebox to really get the robust/rolling flames going all around the new splits? I guess as long as the firebox is hot and the blower is on it's going to kick out heat even with the air intake close down 50%?
 
Just so I'm clear, it's better after a full reload to bump down the air right away rather than allowing the firebox to really get the robust/rolling flames going all around the new splits? I guess as long as the firebox is hot and the blower is on it's going to kick out heat even with the air intake close down 50%?
I think things can get hot fast when you put more wood on a bunch of hot coals. Because it bursts into flame so quick, I don't think having at 50% is out of whack. Now, we're talking about when you were about to go to bed, the stove was plenty hot with much coals, and stuffed it full of wood. Because of the glass door, you can see what's happening and adjust accordingly.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.