Harman Accentra 2 Flame video

[Dontilgon]

Well starting to throw the towel in……. the stove is working but clearly something is not right with the flame. I have two Harman Accentra's , the one with the strong flame is 2002 and the one with the weak flame is a Accentra 2 2004 build. Only major difference is I installed the Crossover tube kit for no reason other than avoiding the "gumming" problem, which this stove showed no signs of. Could this be the problem?

I run it on temp mode and I have to keep the feed on 1.5 or i feel the flame gets to high

Both stoves are vented exactly the same, 90 and straight out.

I'm getting to the point where I could have bought new one.

Any suggestions?

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[Husky]

Looks like air flow problem. You need to give us a little more background. When did you do a complete cleaning and what does that include?

 

[Dontilgon]

I cleaned this unit with a week ago before its first fire up. Cleaning included
1)Vacuumed/scraped burn pot and ash from inside burn pot (where heating igniter is)
2)Removed heat exchanger plates and cleaned channels.
3) Removed and cleaned combustion intake blower cover along with exhaust channel and ESP probe.
4) Auger drive box cleaned
5) Straight out exhaust pipe is new

 

[Husky]

Did you check the cavity under the burn pot where the igniter is located and are your burn pot hole all clear. I will get carbon build up in the little holes on the base of the burn pot. I use a small allen wrench and push it through each hole to clean them out. This is a pain but I have to do it every once in a while.

 

[Mt Bob]

Swap control boards between the 2 and test.

 

[Dontilgon]

Swap control boards between the 2 and test.

I actually ordered a new one because of a previous problem that wasn't the control panel but I cant see why the control board would effect the flame.

 

[jackman]

Are you sure the vent is totally clean.

 

[Dontilgon]

Which vent ? the only one I have to double check is the holes in the burn pot.

 

[Harmanizer]

Looks like you have an air leak in one of your gaskets or fines box cover not attached correctly.Air leak would affect vacuum switch.

 

[Mt Bob]

Control board controls the speed of the combustion motor,and,as you have said the stove will die,if you open then shut the door,and if it still does that with the new vac switch and board,you have a big leak,or comb. motor not getting up to speed.While stove running,go around the sides and everything with a cigarette,see if smoke gets drawn in.

 

[jackman]

Which vent ?

Aka, chimney/exhaust vent. If you have an outside air kit (OAK) check to make sure that it's clear too.

 

[Dontilgon]

Looks like you have an air leak in one of your gaskets or fines box cover not attached correctly.Air leak would affect vacuum switch.

I hope its not a gasket, not sure were to begin. I changed the door gasket and front frame gasket a month ago. i did have the fines box cover off but that seemed like there was no way to really put that on wrong. I will check tonight

 

[Dontilgon]

Aka, chimney/exhaust vent. If you have an outside air kit (OAK) check to make sure that it's clear too.

no outside air kit. the Outside air flapper is free. didn't really look inside . Where does that run. Should I put a wire brush through?

 

[Dontilgon]

Control board controls the speed of the combustion motor,and,as you have said the stove will die,if you open then shut the door,and if it still does that with the new vac switch and board,you have a big leak,or comb. motor not getting up to speed.While stove running,go around the sides and everything with a cigarette,see if smoke gets drawn in.

Can I use something other then a cigarette, not sure thats gonna fly in the house.

 

[Ssyko]

Yeah try a candel, if the flame itself doesn’t work well blow it out and use that smoke.

 

[Mt Bob]

incense works well,also

 

[Mt Bob]

and smells nice

 

[Dontilgon]

I put a lighter along the door and the flame was pulling toward the door.

Guys , I think I have a major lower and handle side door leak. Here’s the story.......I had to take the door off and the Cast front frame off in order to drill the heat exchanger bolt off. Then on top of it ,I saw a crack in the front frame.had it welded and removed ,cleaned and replaced the gaskets on both. When I put it all back together, I noticed it didn’t take much pressure to latch the door closed. I used 3/8 gasket which is factory.

 

[Harmanizer]

I think we found the problem.

 

[Dontilgon]

Think we have but what do I do. Take it all apart again or buy a thicker gasket for just the door. I mean there is zero resistance to latch the door. Also the gasket they sold me is gray as oppose to white that was originally there. Does that matter?

 

[Mt Bob]

Sounds like front cast member may also be leaking,may be hard to notice if the whole frame is leaking,creating big leak that blower cannot compensate for.But,you saw a crack?wow,never saw a crack in an accentra,pictures please for us.

 

[Mt Bob]

Honest truth,you should buy an magnehelic gauge(ebay is fine)and study it,while doing tests.(same as a professional does).Then you can use sealer,up and down the stove sides,while watching the meter.This is what a professional would dr you can just quickie caulk/seal the outer edges of the front cast member,and see what it does.But,what about the top and bottom?Do you trust your workmanship?Just thoughts.

 

[Dontilgon]

Pics of crack

 

[Dontilgon]

So did the dollar test and the dollar moves freely along the bottom. Good news we found the problem bad news I have to take this thing apart again. Take a look at my gaps, can anyone send pics of there lines along the side. My other pellet stove is not at this house to compare. I also included pics how the cast frame attaches. Maybe I attached it wrong(over tightening) On the rear of the frame the gasket only goes along the sides and top. the bottom sits on a gasket along the bottom plate. Anyone familiar with installing the frame and the door. I really didn't see any adjustments other then the bolts on the bottom which I clearly have to let out a bit judging by the lines

 

[Ssyko]

I would be inclined to disassemble and put the frame back on wet (bead of sealer on the flange)then smooth out excess after everything is tight.Cast iron does warp but not to the extent of sheet steel, did it have equal gaps before you tore it down for repairs?