Harman Accentra 52i-TC (Door Open Warning)

Stecha15

New Member
Nov 23, 2018
7
Pennsylvania
I have a newly installed Accentra 52i-TC using as my main source of heat that keeps giving me a door open warning. It was a self install, zero clearance box, direct vent (Runs up about 3', 45 bend, 16", another 45, then slightly uphill going outwards. Its been running for about a week today, but since day 1 the distribution blower will randomly shutdown after 10-15 min of running. I will see the door open warning and check all doors and gaskets, close the door and in a few moments the unit will start back up in full power only to shut back down after another 15-20 min of running until the same warning. I've stopped checking the seals and after maybe a 2-3 min shutdown, it continues to fire back up on its own.

I checked with my local supplier and they said they had a similar issue on one a while ago but couldn't remember what they did to fix it. I have referenced the manual and the web only to come up short on my answer. The most reasonable answer I found mentioned maybe the air intake wasn't enough and it was choking up the system but the dealer shot that down saying it has nothing to do with the door open warning.

Is there anything I could be missing that could correct this? (This is my first pellet stove so I am unfamiliar with many of the parts and features but relatively a quick learner.)
 

bob bare

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
2,960
park county montana
Any suggestion how much? Im at 3000max 2000min at factory default.
nope,never worked on one of the newer ones,hopefully others will check in.It is an adjustment set up by the dealer upon installation,to account for the different type of flue installs,which is also why it is in the hidden menu,for dealers use only.
 

Stecha15

New Member
Nov 23, 2018
7
Pennsylvania
To correct my previous statement, it's 2500 min and 3000 max. I've switched it to 2600 min and 3100 max and have had only a few errors pop up through the evening and this morning much better than it was. The diagnostic information on the touch controls shows the fan runs 3100+ quite often.

Hoping some one else can chime I'm and let me know what is needed to nail this down.
 

bob bare

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
2,960
park county montana
Make sure you have the latest programming in your stove.Check to see if your vacuum is low,and switch dropping out.You can do this with a gauge,but,you can also watch the function on the control panel.Is also possible you have a poorly made exhaust probe,I think you can also see it's function on the control panel.As it was self installed,I think you will have to pay a dealer to come out and check stove/install,however,possibly,if you call Harman,they might help you over the phone.
 

Stecha15

New Member
Nov 23, 2018
7
Pennsylvania
I've been watching diagnostics as the stove runs, and it only seems to have issues when under full power. Esp is at 420 degrees, combustion fan runs about 3,000, Pressure switch keeps opening which causes the door alarm. Not sure how to resolve this. I will try Harman tomorrow, and the dealer to see what they can offer
 

fmsm

Minister of Fire
Dec 12, 2011
946
South of Boston MA
Did you use 3 inch or 4 inch exhaust pipe? Do you know what your EVL is?
 

bob bare

Minister of Fire
Oct 31, 2013
2,960
park county montana
So you can see the switch open and close on the panel,good.So,you are loosing vacuum,or have a bad switch.Make sure your technician brings a gauge to check.Could also be something strange,like fan blade was not tightened(combustion fan),and as it heats up,it slips.
 

fmsm

Minister of Fire
Dec 12, 2011
946
South of Boston MA
4 inch. What do you mean by evl?
I found this explanation in an old thread.

A rule of thumb equation used by most pellet manufactures. The equation is called the sum of Equivalent Vertical Length (EVL). All of the above mentioned venting restrictions have been assigned EVL values as follows:

Each 45 degree elbow = 3 EVL
Each 90 degree elbow and Tees with cleanout = 5 EVL
Each foot of horizontal run = 1 EVL
Each foot of Vertical run = 0.5 EVL
Elevations above 3000 ft with an EVL of 7 must adapt to 4 inch vent pipe.

If your installation is below 3000ft, we would need to do some math. The rule of thumb equations is that if the sum of the EVL is 15 or greater, then the pellet vent pipe would be increased to 4 inch diameter pellet vent pipe.

Your installation may still be the culprit dependent on the amount of 90’s, 45’s and the run length.
 

Stecha15

New Member
Nov 23, 2018
7
Pennsylvania
I found this explanation in an old thread.

A rule of thumb equation used by most pellet manufactures. The equation is called the sum of Equivalent Vertical Length (EVL). All of the above mentioned venting restrictions have been assigned EVL values as follows:

Each 45 degree elbow = 3 EVL
Each 90 degree elbow and Tees with cleanout = 5 EVL
Each foot of horizontal run = 1 EVL
Each foot of Vertical run = 0.5 EVL
Elevations above 3000 ft with an EVL of 7 must adapt to 4 inch vent pipe.

If your installation is below 3000ft, we would need to do some math. The rule of thumb equations is that if the sum of the EVL is 15 or greater, then the pellet vent pipe would be increased to 4 inch diameter pellet vent pipe.

Your installation may still be the culprit dependent on the amount of 90’s, 45’s and the run length.
Fmsm, my install is 4 vertical ft, a 45, 2 diagonal ft, 45, 2 horizontal ft. I used 4 vent pipe..

I haven't been able to get a tech to come visit.
 

Stecha15

New Member
Nov 23, 2018
7
Pennsylvania
All,
To update everyone - My stove had a bad vacuum switch. The dealer came out, made the swap, cleaned my stove and venting (already burned about 1500lbs of pellets so that was nice), and gave it a once over. Now that my stove isn't shutting off I was hoping my house would be a little warmer. This however is not the case. I guess my house is just too old and drafty for the harmen to keep up. It struggles to keep the downstairs at 70. (I have 1500sq ft of open floor plan, and another 1100 upstairs.

I will say, the stove can heat the house well to my surprise, maintaining low to mid 60's upstairs and about 68 downstairs, but it lacks the 'in room heat' that i was shooting for by going this route. Plus its running full blast never shuts/slows down - Im burning about 4+ 40lb bags in 24 hrs.

Based on what I've read things i can do to help alleviate my pain, install OAK? Seal up drafts. Insulate house. Replace single pane windows etc. The house was built in the 50's out of CMU and furred out with 1.5" strips before drywall. No insulation downstairs - and its a slab on grade. Great in summer, stays cool, but in winter - still cool. Upstairs is better insulated - still block and furred but now has R-6.5 in the walls. (R-13 cut in half). Attic is also poor - maybe R-19 but its very poorly done rendering the insulation useless in my opinion. All in the future works of correcting and repairs.
 

fmsm

Minister of Fire
Dec 12, 2011
946
South of Boston MA
All,
To update everyone - My stove had a bad vacuum switch. The dealer came out, made the swap, cleaned my stove and venting (already burned about 1500lbs of pellets so that was nice), and gave it a once over. Now that my stove isn't shutting off I was hoping my house would be a little warmer. This however is not the case. I guess my house is just too old and drafty for the harmen to keep up. It struggles to keep the downstairs at 70. (I have 1500sq ft of open floor plan, and another 1100 upstairs.

I will say, the stove can heat the house well to my surprise, maintaining low to mid 60's upstairs and about 68 downstairs, but it lacks the 'in room heat' that i was shooting for by going this route. Plus its running full blast never shuts/slows down - Im burning about 4+ 40lb bags in 24 hrs.

Based on what I've read things i can do to help alleviate my pain, install OAK? Seal up drafts. Insulate house. Replace single pane windows etc. The house was built in the 50's out of CMU and furred out with 1.5" strips before drywall. No insulation downstairs - and its a slab on grade. Great in summer, stays cool, but in winter - still cool. Upstairs is better insulated - still block and furred but now has R-6.5 in the walls. (R-13 cut in half). Attic is also poor - maybe R-19 but its very poorly done rendering the insulation useless in my opinion. All in the future works of correcting and repairs.
Definitely install an OAK. This will stop you from sucking in cold air into the house to replace the warm air you’re burning. This should make a huge difference. Additional air sealing and insulation will help as well.