Harman Accentra pull apart?

[womaus]

Caution: This post may contain language not suitable for work, children, or possibly even adults.

Such a nice day today, weather is mild. I decided to do a quick clean of the Harman Accentra FS, I’ve only burnt about 7 or eight bags so far this season but they seemed to have quite a bit of dust, fines. Haven’t cleaned out the fines box since before last years burning season.

Started pulling the stove apart…found that the burn pot needed a good chiseling due to the low burn rates I’ve been doing, and the probably marginal last years pellets I found locally for a few bucks a bag. Harbor Freight chisels are perfect for the job.

Pulled the igniter cover, cleaned out that compartment.

Pulled the back panel, opened the fines compartment. Only about 1/4 inch of fines…could have gone the rest of the season as it was. Vac’d it out. Sealed it back up.

Quick look around the back area as best possible, distribution fan is clean, vac’d off the combustion fan grate. Seems like the feed motor fan likes to hang, will need to look at that later. Or get a new motor, they're cheap enough.

Figured since I’ve gone this far I’d continue. Cleaned the interior of the glass with some glass cleaner and a bit of baking soda. Looks good.

Pulled the ash bin, vac’d up all of the spillage on the sides. Brushed down the interior, vac’d it up. No need to empty, less than 1/2" of ash.

Pulled the left side baffle, brushed down the transfer area.Started to pull the right side, that latch, once again, is being a bit hesitant. Run around, find the PB Blaster, give it a bit of a soaking. I’ve needed to do this in the past, usually after a few minutes it frees up. Gave it 15 minutes of so, with another blast within that period of time.

Latch is still problematic. Last time I used a ratchet wrench extension and a hammer to “bump” the latch up to release the panel. This isn’t working all that well this time. Give it another shot of Blaster, and another 15 minutes to sit and soak.

Still no go. Off to find the ratchet set, 7/16” socket, to loosen up the bolt. Pain in the butt to get to, it’s hidden up towards the top of the inside of the stove. Get the socket on, give it a tug, try the latch. It seems to be a bit looser, able to budge it with effort. Give it a little more of a loosening with the ratchet.

#$#%^@$%#!

Bolt snaps. Bolt head shears off, attached firmly to the latch itself.

That’s the only thing holding in the baffle on that side.

Looks like I’ll have to get on the other side of the bolt in order to get it out, there is certainly no way to get the bolt stub extracted from the front burn compartment of the stove. I’m betting the top of the stove will pop off after releasing some fastenings?

I’ve been looking for a breakdown schematic of the stove itself, the cast iron components. I’ve not been able to find anything. Does this exist, able to be accessed by mere mortals? Have any of you pulled the top off of your Accentra FS in the past?

I’ve Rube Goldberg’d up a temporary fix, keeping the baffle plate in position. Looks like it should hold up until I can get the real fix completed.

And this is what the flame diverter looks like…time for a new one I think. Are all of the available pieces out there the same quality? I’ve seen prices from $25 to $50.

A new one should take care of the flame “leakage” showing here.

Thanks in advance for any and all help you’ll provide…

 

[Bioburner]

I don't know where they got the latch bolts from. I tore into a 45 and the combustion fan cover latch bolt parted company too. I had pot metal with more strength. Good luck

 

[womaus]

Still trying to find a parts catalog / parts breakdown of the stove. Still no luck. May need to just start pulling obvious fasteners apart...

 

[bags]

That sucks. Google broken bolts because there are many ways to work around on them. Never a fun or pretty job though. I've broken taps and dies off before which is even worse.

See if you can access behind and get it from there. If not you may have to drill. I'd start with running a good small bit around the broken off bolt hitting the threads but you still need a way to extract the junked bolt. Everything can be figured out and worked out but research well before you start and compound you problems.

Do you know any machinists or such you could ask for pointers or help?

 

[womaus]

That sucks. Google broken bolts because there are many ways to work around on them. Never a fun or pretty job though. I've broken taps and dies off before which is even worse.

See if you can access behind and get it from there. If not you may have to drill. I'd start with running a good small bit around the broken off bolt hitting the threads but you still need a way to extract the junked bolt. Everything can be figured out and worked out but research well before you start and compound you problems.

Do you know any machinists or such you could ask for pointers or help?

I think I'm capable of getting the stub out, but first I need to get to the other side of the stub. Penetrating oil, a torch directed at the area to break the corrosion bond, drills and easy-outs should make short work of it. Then a better quality bolt, with high temp anti-seize applied to the threads before reassembly.

I'm betting the top cast piece of the stove will come off, I just want to find out what fasteners I'll need to access prior to the attempt. There is no way to get good access to the area where the swing latch was bolted to the stove case, the front of the stove drops down in that area. I'll see if I can get a good pic of that situation.

I know there are a couple of nuts and bolts that appear to be attaching the top cast cover of the stove to the base, but there should be at least two more. Have been unable to determine where those are, and have not been able to find an exploded schematic of the stove that could answer this question.

My biggest worry is that I'll need to pull the stove out of it's installed position. It's a heavy one.

 

[bags]

They are all heavy.... Some worse than others. Anti-sieze is the cats meow and I use it everywhere I can. It pays dividends too.

Sounds like you are on the right track so Good Luck. Not a fun mishap right about when the stove will be needed.

 

[womaus]

I just realized that I need to get my youngest back to college, and will be driving right by one of the area Harman dealers on the way. Not sure if the parts / service people will be there, but maybe one of the sales people will take pity on me, try to scrounge a repair manual I can gaze at.

 

[fedtime]

I'm not sure this will be much help, but here it is: http://downloads.hearthnhome.com/serviceParts/Accentra_Cast.pdf

Good luck with the repair. I have the same stove, so I know tight it is up in that corner around that hinge.

 

[womaus]

I'm not sure this will be much help, but here it is: http://downloads.hearthnhome.com/serviceParts/Accentra_Cast.pdf

Good luck with the repair. I have the same stove, so I know tight it is up in that corner around that hinge.

That's pretty much exactly what I've been searching for.

Interestingly it does not show the latches or bolts in the diagram...nor does it show how the pieces of cast (sides, front, top) bolt together. I'm betting there's another schematic out there somewhere.

Many many thanks.

 

[Lake Girl]

The only diagram I could find was on page 35 in the manual the exploded parts list (broken link removed to http://downloads.hearthnhome.com/installManuals/Accentra.pdf)
Take pics as you go and get sandwich bags for the nuts and bolts so reassembly goes easier! Good luck..

PS Same diagram Started to answer last night and had internet outage. Posted today without looking to see if others answered.

 

[fedtime]

I just took a look at mine during my weekly cleaning. You could get a 90 degree drill up on there without too much effort - like this one: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-ONE-18-Volt-3-8-in-Right-Angle-Drill-Tool-Only-P241/100342144

Drill out the broken off bolt with a small drill bit and tap out the hole.

Disassembly of the stove top and fire box is a big job, and entails replacing all sorts of seals and gaskets. I'd be inclined to at least try to do the repair with the stove in place.

 

[Mt Bob]

Bummer,Womaus.That bolt goes into the cast heat exchanger.Pulling the top would be a summertime thing,IMHO.If there is a stub enough to get vise grips on,good.Heating the cast and bolt cherry red,cooling down,a few times will generally allow a bolt like that to come out easily.That bolt probably goes into a blind hole,but do not know for certain.BUT,as the upper plates generally are not a tight fit anyway,you could cut a section of steel,and wedge it at the top,would not have to be perfect,then deal with it next spring.Good luck.

 

[womaus]

BUT,as the upper plates generally are not a tight fit anyway,you could cut a section of steel,and wedge it at the top,would not have to be perfect,then deal with it next spring.Good luck.

I bent up a piece of aluminum, it has a bit of spring to it, got it wedged in place. Been running the stove hard for a couple of days to see if it's going to fail. If so, I'll go with steel.

Quite the pain in the butt...

Tried to stop by a Harman dealer today, they closed at 2:00PM, today is Sunday. They've been very helpful in the past with DIY repairs, hopefully they can give some better info on how to access into the back side of the heat exchanger. I'll pick up a new flame diverter while I'm there.

I will be taking a look at the 90º drill recommendation, but I think the space will be too constricting.

Thanks to all for all of the replies.

 

[Mt Bob]

The plate does not have to be super tight against the exchanger at all.I think top is only 4 nuts,will maybe able to research a little more for you.

 

[Mt Bob]

But you prob needed new flame guide last year!

 

[MarkF48]

Tried to stop by a Harman dealer today, they closed at 2:00PM, today is Sunday. They've been very helpful in the past with DIY repairs, hopefully they can give some better info on how to access into the back side of the heat exchanger. I'll pick up a new flame diverter while I'm there.

Notice you're in Central, MA. If your dealer is in Monson, MA, that's where I got my stove and is my pellet supplier. They have been helpful for me for a couple issues and now show parts and prices online.

 

[womaus]

The plate does not have to be super tight against the exchanger at all.I think top is only 4 nuts,will maybe able to research a little more for you.

I too believe the top is attached by just four fasteners, two can be accessed from the front of the stove. Not sure where the other two are, or what will need to be dismantled in order to get to them.

If the bracket / wedge holds up over the next week I'll most likely put the repair off until the spring, would be a good time to do a deep clean on the stove, something I can't do in the living room where it's located.

 

[womaus]

Notice you're in Central, MA. If your dealer is in Monson, MA, that's where I got my stove and is my pellet supplier. They have been helpful for me for a couple issues and now show parts and prices online.

I've been frequenting the dealer up in Barre, MA. They've been very helpful in the past with other repairs.

 

[womaus]

But you prob needed new flame guide last year!

But it's not last year anymore, so how would I have known that?

Sheeeesh....some people.

Thanks again for the input.

 

[Mt Bob]

Yea,the other 2 are in the back,blocked by hopper flange on mine 2006.But there are 3 different hopper designs on the accentra.

 

[Lake Girl]

Yea,the other 2 are in the back,blocked by hopper flange on mine 2006.But there are 3 different hopper designs on the accentra.

Well that makes life interesting...

 

[dozerdean]

Bummer,Womaus.That bolt goes into the cast heat exchanger.Pulling the top would be a summertime thing,IMHO.If there is a stub enough to get vise grips on,good.Heating the cast and bolt cherry red,cooling down,a few times will generally allow a bolt like that to come out easily.That bolt probably goes into a blind hole,but do not know for certain.BUT,as the upper plates generally are not a tight fit anyway,you could cut a section of steel,and wedge it at the top,would not have to be perfect,then deal with it next spring.Good luck.

That's what I would do also . I used to work on heavy equipment if u had a stub sticking out a little heat from a tour here did wonders.

 

[dozerdean]

That's what I would do also . I used to work on heavy equipment if u had a stub sticking out a little heat from a tourch did wonders.

 

[Iburnslow]

Wow! Just reading through this thread and feeling your pain. I've got the same stove, it's about 12 years old. I've seen these parts getting dubiously rusty and sticky on my stove. I would try to avoid pulling the entire stove apart as you're contemplating. I think once you break all of the seals, you're going to risk introducing other issues with maintaining the tightness of the stove, which might start to snowball into a pile of problems and get to a point where the stove is useless and you're using it as a mooring block for your boat. I would recommend attempting the angle drill and some heat first. You sound like a very capable person, but don't be afraid to ask for help from someone like a machinist. I've found you need a good amount of patience dealing with them, but it's only because they are super analytical and meticulous. They'll astonish you with their solutions however. I've used the guys in Barre too, they are good guys and I like them. There is also a very capable Harman dealer in Acton "Pellets R Us".

 

[womaus]

Wow! Just reading through this thread and feeling your pain. I've got the same stove, it's about 12 years old. I've seen these parts getting dubiously rusty and sticky on my stove. I would try to avoid pulling the entire stove apart as you're contemplating. I think once you break all of the seals, you're going to risk introducing other issues with maintaining the tightness of the stove, which might start to snowball into a pile of problems and get to a point where the stove is useless and you're using it as a mooring block for your boat. I would recommend attempting the angle drill and some heat first. You sound like a very capable person, but don't be afraid to ask for help from someone like a machinist. I've found you need a good amount of patience dealing with them, but it's only because they are super analytical and meticulous. They'll astonish you with their solutions however. I've used the guys in Barre too, they are good guys and I like them. There is also a very capable Harman dealer in Acton "Pellets R Us".

I wish I had a boat I could use it for...over the winter I'll be trying to set up a small dedicated Quabbin fisher.

I'm going to try to get up to Barre to see if I can pick the brain of the guy that heads up the parts and repair end of the business.

Thinking forward other things come up. We may not be in this house next year, trying to downsize. That means the stove either stays here or will follow us, if it follows us that would be a good time for a knockdown repair (if indeed that is a feasibility).

So far the "quick fix" seems to be holding up...it may get me through the winter.