Harman Accentra

[bayfeet]

Just purchased a Harman Accentra. Does the frame have to be bolted down inside the fireplace. For some reason I hate the idea of drilling anchor bolts ino the brick. Would the leveling rods on each side work to keep the stove from moving? Ed

 

[notch]

I'd recommend using four tapcons. I too was a bit concerned about drilling the brick, but once you get used to the stove you'll never go back to a FP, and even if you do just fill the holes with refractory cement and you'll never know they are there. It makes a big difference in the stability of the frame, and you don't want to torque your venting connections to much when pulling out the stove for maintenance.

 

[Bkins]

What does the manual tell you to do? If the leveling legs cause the frame to jamb against some other part of the fireplace then you may get away without anchoring it into your brick but if not then you may as well face the fact and do it correctly. Gonna be a pain if it moves around while taking it in/out for cleaning. You could also damage your hearth depending on how its built and laid out. You may also have a problem with the flue pipe if it moves around.

 

[kinsmanstoves]

Tapcon the frame.

Eric

 

[bayfeet]

Tapcon the frame.

Eric

Thanks for the help, tapcon it is. Is it ok to put use cement board adhered to the sheet metal flue damper kit? I'm also going to use Roxul insulation behind the damper kit and around the pipes. Can the Roxul be put between the exhaust pipe and the damper sealer holes instead of silicone? Ed

 

[smwilliamson]

the frame should have two bars to screw up to the lentil and four screws to level it and wedge it in to the opening. I suggest not using tapcon into the fire brick unless that is your only option.

 

[bayfeet]

the frame should have two bars to screw up to the lentil and four screws to level it and wedge it in to the opening. I suggest not using tapcon into the fire brick unless that is your only option.

Why no tap con?

 

[notch]

Is it ok to put use cement board adhered to the sheet metal flue damper kit?

When you say "damper kit" are you referring to the block-off plate? If so, I do not see any benefit to using cement board.

I'm also going to use Roxul insulation behind the damper kit and around the pipes. Can the Roxul be put between the exhaust pipe and the damper sealer holes instead of silicone? Ed

Since the block off acts as a fire wall between the flue and your interior, and also keeps warm heated air from being sucked up and out, I'd recommend using furnace cement since it provides an air-tight seal and can tolerate the high temps of the flue pipe. You'll need furnace cement for connecting your flue pipe to the frame stub so you'll have some on hand.

My $.02

 

[bayfeet]

Thanks for all the replies. The sheet metal that I got for the block up plate ended up in three pieces because the exhaust hole was not lined up. I used the cement board as a backer and sheet metal screws to put the sheet metal back as one piece. Similar to some pictures that I saw out here. If I use furnace cement when connecting the flue pipe to the stub, what would happen if I had to take it out at a later date, say to clean out the flue pipe? Couldn't I just use some hose clamps instead or maybe that would not give the connection an air-tight seal? I'm going to try and wedge the frame first, if it it's not tight, I'll use the tapcons. Ed

 

[notch]

I used the cement board as a backer and sheet metal screws to put the sheet metal back as one piece. If I use furnace cement when connecting the flue pipe to the stub, what would happen if I had to take it out at a later date, say to clean out the flue pipe? Couldn't I just use some hose clamps instead or maybe that would not give the connection an air-tight seal?

Seems to me the cement board would make it difficult to get the block-off plate mounted in the damper area, and may not be air tight. I'm not sure about what temperature cement board is rated for either, but you should if you use it. I seem to recall that the temperature of the vent pipe near the frame stub can reach 500F. Maybe you could use the plate you created with the cement board as a template on another piece of sheet metal. That way, your block-off plate would be one piece and the hole for the vent pipe would be lined up properly.

You raise a valid concern about future maintenance when you use furnace cement to attach the vent pipe to the frame. The frame itself should never need to be removed once installed, but access to the pipe for cleaning is required. I clean mine from the top down while a vacuum hose is taped to the rectangular hole on the underside of the stub, but you may not have access or desire to clean from the top. You can break the furnace cement bond, scrape it off and reapply but that is a PITA. Others here probably have recommendations, but I would make sure the connection from the stub to the vent pipe is completely sealed with furnace cement as the area is the hottest part of the vent pipe and I would not trust silicone not to melt and leak. Hose clamps are out of the questions by themselves. Remember, that the connection between the frame stub and your vent pipe is inside your home's heated envelope.If it leaks, you and your family could die from carbon monoxide poisoning. Use cement, make sure the seal is 100%, and follow the link in my sig for a $20 CO detector for your peace of mind. Don't skimp on the CO detector - $20 for you and your family? No brainer. Good luck!

 

[kinsmanstoves]

Tapcon keeps the rattle down and helps when removing and installing the unit for cleaning. Easy to patch brick if the customer decides to go back to wood.

Eric