Harman P38 Auger Motor no longer comes on.

[rayttt]

Hi, I have a Harman P38+ and the other week the Auger motor started grinding and stopped turning.
I removed the Auger Motor, then Auger.
I couldn't find anything that may have jammed it. But I Had vacuumed out the Auger Shaft and everything.
I put the auger back in , then the Motor back on.
Now I get not auger movement. I turn on the stove and turn the top right down to zero which should cause all motors to turn on for 30 secs or something like that.
The Auger motor will not start.If I feed 120 into the auger directly it turns fine. I left it turning for a while with no issues.
I connect it back up normally and the motor still will not start.
Do I have to have a fire going and proof of fire to get the auger to turn on?
I thought that knob bypassed the need for any flames..it was to test all motors.

 

[Funnydirt14]

Did you have the doors closed? You have to have a tight seal for the vacuum switch to work properly. Not familiar with the P38, but on my P68 you put it in test mode to get it to cycle.

 

[rayttt]

Thats what I did...put it in test mode..and still the light never comes on for the auger and it just doesn't start.
The door isn't closed...however I never remembered any need to have it closed when going to test mode. All motors were supposed to run for 30 seconds.
That doesn't start the auger motor at all.
The Switch where the auger motor's electrical connections look the the actuator for the pressure switch..I should be able to just bypass that switch
and it should then run always as a way of testing it, no?

 

[bogieb]

If you have the door open, only the blower will run - that is what I do when I clean my stoves, open a door (so no vacuum sensed) then turn to "Test" so the exhaust blower goes on and keeps the ash from coming out into the room. The auger does not run in this situation.

Close all doors and try it again.

Edit - just realized you said you tried that. This may be obvious, and you may have done so, but move the dial off of test, make sure all doors are closed (including hopper), then turn to test.

 

[rayttt]

I had a bad combustion motor. Replaced it. Now I never get proof of fire. is that probably the ESP Probe?

 

[Lake Girl]

When was the last time you cleaned the ESP? POF is the ESP and auger will stop if ESP doesn't register the temp increase. The other thing that will stop the auger would be weak vacuum ... door/hopper/ashpan gaskets (as appropriate) replaced? Checked the line to the vacuum switch?

 

[rayttt]

I'm down to the last thing on here. The pressure switch / hose. If I jumper the switch I get constant feeding. I cant get the hose out and it's too short to reach it to blow it out.. Should the hose be open or is the other end closed?

 

[Lake Girl]

I would replace the vac hose to rule out that problem. One end of the hose connects to the vac switch, the other end to a port on the feeder body. page 23 of the manual http://downloads.hearthnhome.com/installManuals/PP38.pdf If you vacuumed the feeder body, you may have damaged the vac switch with too much suction (disconnect the other end at the switch?). Do not leave it operating with the vac switch jumpered out. Want you safe...

What shape are the gaskets in? Pass the dollar bill test?

 

[Mt Bob]

The "hidden" other end of the hose goes to a nipple,connected to the combustion chamber.Go to auto parts store and get a chunk of vacuum tubing,and a inline connector.Then try blowing into the hose,should be open.Then hook to switch and gently suck,see if switch clicks.

 

[rayttt]

Ok. Thank you both. I pulled it off of switch ... yanked it tight...put back on an so far it is working. New switch on its way. I grab some hose fromnauto store.

 

[Lake Girl]

If it is working likely the switch is OK. Probably just needed the new tubing or got disconnected when working in the cabinet.