Harman P43 problem

[Golfeur]

I do not know if there is an adjustment for the door of the ash
but the other door yes

 

[bags]

the only "adjustment I see on my P 43 for the door latch is to slightly bend the steel where the latch goes against when you lock it down.

Is your 43 older or newer. how old? The door latch on my 45 is like what you are describing. The 68 is a newer latching style.

How is your flame? Any better?

 

[salt & battery]

Thanks and good point Bio. Hopefully Salt gets it remedied. I know what my issue is. Maybe his is the same....? I'd say the ash pan rope gets way overlooked vs. fire doors. The more i think it over though it does make sense the gasket take a beating when not in use. many live in a state of smashed up non stop even in the off season. I can see how they would tend to give up and flatten out. My 45 I left the doors cracked all summer. They are very tight and suffered no compression spell.

you know that is a good idea to keep the doors cracked open so as not to crush the seals. it is like when I shot matches with M1A / M14 and I would unlatch the trigger guard so as to keep the pressure off the wood so it would not get a set leading to a loose fitting action

 

[bags]

you know that is a good idea to keep the doors cracked open so as not to crush the seals. it is like when I shot matches with M1A / M14 and I would unlatch the trigger guard so as to keep the pressure off the wood so it would not get a set leading to a loose fitting action

Again, Bio will have some input on the weapons of mass destruction. I met him when he was on his way to Ft. Knox this past spring. I get what you're saying. Relieve the pressure.

 

[salt & battery]

Is your 43 older or newer. how old? The door latch on my 45 is like what you are describing. The 68 is a newer latching style.

mine is 5 years old maybe. when you turn the handle down there is a notch in the box slightly bent so when the shaft comes behind it the bend give it resistance so I just hit it with a hammer bent it more just a little and it locks real tite now

 

[bags]

That's the same on my 45. Basically it's an older P61 platform and the same as your 45. I didn't need to do anything like that on mine. Just new gaskets. the old ones were cooked.

 

[salt & battery]

That's the same on my 45. Basically it's an older P61 platform and the same as your 45. I didn't need to do anything like that on mine. Just new gaskets. the old ones were cooked.

mine look new but flat as Twiggy might be the problem

 

[alternativeheat]

I pulled the half inch that I put on the ash pan door slightly. And I didn't use the cement for gaskets, I used red RTV. The original gasket was too thin and the door leaked 1/3 of the way along the bottom edge and in both corners on the hinge side with the original gasket. I didn't even hesitate to change it out, not sure why people are bending frames and messing around with fluffing up etc. Just change the foolish thing if it's leaking. Next thing you get it too tight and the hinge side will open up or what ever. Different if there is an adjustment for it, that's fine.

And Salt, what good is the tight fire door if the ash pan door is the really loose one ? Plus have you even checked if it's actually leaking ? My P61 fire door has a fairly flat gasket too but it's sealed, checked it both with fire and ( get this) a 20 dollar bill, OMG ( that's gosh, I never use his name in vain)

 

[gfreek]

So any difference after tightening ash door ??

 

[FirepotPete]

You can try using a wide tonged fork (like for serving salads) and fluff the door gaskets up. I do that every so often when cleaning. Sometimes it will seal for a long time or just get you through until you can pickup new rope.

 

[alternativeheat]

So any difference after tightening ash door ??

For me ? Less staining on the glass and from new the pellets really danced around on the pot, they did that again.

You can try using a wide tonged fork (like for serving salads) and fluff the door gaskets up. I do that every so often when cleaning. Sometimes it will seal for a long time or just get you through until you can pickup new rope.

If you can wet the gasket first it might last a bit longer.

 

[FirepotPete]

For me ? Less staining on the glass and from new the pellets really danced around on the pot, they did that again.

If you can wet the gasket first it might last a bit longer.

I've only had to change mine once, that was after the second year. After that I always leave the door cracked when not in use and fluff it up every so often. I did change it last year but it didn't really need it but I was changing the glass, had the door off the stove and figured what the heck!

 

[alternativeheat]

I've only had to change mine once, that was after the second year. After that I always leave the door cracked when not in use and fluff it up every so often. I did change it last year but it didn't really need it but I was changing the glass, had the door off the stove and figured what the heck!

Interesting you say that, last summer I left the doors cracked open and I had no collection of water inside the stove. The prior year I had rust and I had the doors closed tight. So more than one benefit from leaving them cracked open it seems.

 

[FirepotPete]

Interesting you say that, last summer I left the doors cracked open and I had no collection of water inside the stove. The prior year I had rust and I had the doors closed tight. So more than one benefit from leaving them cracked open it seems.

Ya I had read about condensation build up in the off season years ago so that's another good reason. I just close the ball valve on the OAK and after cleaning the exhaust stuff a rag in it and duct tape it so the English House Sparrows (getto birds) don't go in.

 

[alternativeheat]

Ya I had read about condensation build up in the off season years ago so that's another good reason. I just close the ball valve on the OAK and after cleaning the exhaust stuff a rag in it and duct tape it so the English House Sparrows (getto birds) don't go in.

My OAK inlet is inside my chimney and the chimney is capped, the only thing I worry about getting in is a loose piece of mortar which is unlikely..

 

[bogieb]

Interesting you say that, last summer I left the doors cracked open and I had no collection of water inside the stove. The prior year I had rust and I had the doors closed tight. So more than one benefit from leaving them cracked open it seems.

Hmm, interesting. If my basement wasn't damp, I might try that next year with the P61 - it rusts up even with the OAK and exhaust plugged up. This year, about August (a little late I know), I used fogging oil and it seemed to help.

I did unhook the exhaust and OAK from the Hastings, plugged the stove pipes up and put in Damp Rid bucket. It collected a lot of water and the stove still rusted some so I had to do some clean up before I sold it.

Maybe I'll try leaving the little stove ajar next year after plugging the vent and OAK. I do usually have a ceiling fan going during summer, so just the circulation may help. Of course that presumes I'l actually remember this conversation by then

 

[alternativeheat]

Maybe I'll try leaving the little stove ajar next year after plugging the vent and OAK. I do usually have a ceiling fan going during summer, so just the circulation may help. Of course that presumes I'l actually remember this conversation by then

Here is a deal and a half for you Bogie, if I can remember I'll remind you lol !!

Seriously though, I tried the locked down tight routine and you could see rust trails where the water beaded up and literally ran down the sides of my P61. What a mess I had.In 35+ years I never had such a thing on the same hearth with the coal stove and coal ash being more corrosive at that. The coal stove was far from air tight so I left the P61 open last summer. No Rust !

 

[FirepotPete]

Hmm, interesting. If my basement wasn't damp, I might try that next year with the P61 - it rusts up even with the OAK and exhaust plugged up. This year, about August (a little late I know), I used fogging oil and it seemed to help.

I did unhook the exhaust and OAK from the Hastings, plugged the stove pipes up and put in Damp Rid bucket. It collected a lot of water and the stove still rusted some so I had to do some clean up before I sold it.

Maybe I'll try leaving the little stove ajar next year after plugging the vent and OAK. I do usually have a ceiling fan going during summer, so just the circulation may help. Of course that presumes I'l actually remember this conversation by then

Yup I always use the fogging oil, tip from sidecarflip years ago. You can make you own damp rid pretty cheap. Two ice cream buckets and some calcium chloride, will do the same for a lot less cash!

 

[Bioburner]

You could always put in a golden rod or other such thing inside the stove in the off season to keep the stove warm and dry. One manufacture recommends the use of fogging oil. Work well in a couple safes I have and the some of the contents are worth more than a stove each.

 

[FirepotPete]

You could always put in a golden rod or other such thing inside the stove in the off season to keep the stove warm and dry. One manufacture recommends the use of fogging oil. Work well in a couple safes I have and the some of the contents are worth more than a stove each.

Don't want to get to OT here so here's the last on this unless we start another thread but one of the main reasons I do the fogging oil is that I burn 100% corn. At the end of the season I'll burn a hopper of pellets, do a big clean and then the oil. Supposedly the corn produces nitric acid that can eat up metals, especially if moisture is present, so burning the pellets and using fogging oil after cleaning helps stop the acid. Don't know how true it is but it's cheaper and easier not to find out!

 

[alternativeheat]

Now I just want to know if the OP is winning this battle or what ?

 

[gfreek]

Um Me too. salt & battery how is it going ??

 

[salt & battery]

Um Me too. salt & battery how is it going ??

I had to go to dinner with my lady friend. I will change the gasket on the ash door first. stove is working fine just cant hook up the low pressure vacuum switch. got it jumped. the gaskets are the last thing I hope. does anyone know the size of the gaskets on the P43?

 

[salt & battery]

I pulled the half inch that I put on the ash pan door slightly. And I didn't use the cement for gaskets, I used red RTV. The original gasket was too thin and the door leaked 1/3 of the way along the bottom edge and in both corners on the hinge side with the original gasket. I didn't even hesitate to change it out, not sure why people are bending frames and messing around with fluffing up etc. Just change the foolish thing if it's leaking. Next thing you get it too tight and the hinge side will open up or what ever. Different if there is an adjustment for it, that's fine.

And Salt, what good is the tight fire door if the ash pan door is the really loose one ? Plus have you even checked if it's actually leaking ? My P61 fire door has a fairly flat gasket too but it's sealed, checked it both with fire and ( get this) a 20 dollar bill, OMG ( that's gosh, I never use his name in vain)

well I figured might as well tighten up the fire door so one more of the checklist. a 20 dollar bill man you got money to burn lol

 

[Bioburner]

I think the P series are 3/8. I've done three in three years. If you can I would recommend the graphite impregnated rope. Seems to self lubricate and not want to stick and get hard and flat as fast as the white stuff.