combustion fan works same as when new, exhaust being pumped out of stove pipe. stove works great until I hook up the new low pressure vacuum switch.
Harman P43 problem
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when stove is running I see the air intake flap open like 30%. it swings freely I feel air passing by. I will let the stove shut down soon and try to vacuum air inlet the only thing I did not check. I might have to wait until the repair guys who wont call me back are not so busy to plug in their unit to see what is going on or not going on. at least the stove works and is heating the house. great bunch of people hereI found a mouse nest in another stove brands air intake
Bioburner
Moderator
I would make a manometer and stick it in the test port on the bottom left side of the fire box and get a reading of what the vacuum is. Your tech may have a electronic one to test but probably $100 plus to show up. YouTube should have video on how to make your own manometer for about 75 cents
alternativeheat
Minister of Fire
On my P61 it's on the left side as you face the stove about 3/4 of the way back towards rear. It's the only hex head bolt on the outside of the stove.
on u tube I saw a guy make a fitting on the left side of his stove near the bottom. I do not see that on my P 43. would I be able to take the hose off the vacuum switch and use the male fitting where it goes to the burn pot
alternativeheat
Minister of Fire
It seems unlikely your stove doesn't have the port. It should be on the side of the ash pan ( base section) section of the stove but up very close to the main body, it's a hex headed bolt painted black just like the rest of the stove. It kind of tucks in there and isn't very noticeable due to the fact the main body is wider than the base section. So it's shadowed.
alternativeheat
Minister of Fire
That's what I did to find mine last year. No clue that's what that nut was LOL ! Hah, then I adjusted the trim screw without a gauge anyway.
When you were working on your stove was it plugged in or unplugged? I agree that it seems to be an air leak or blockage. Last night in the dark I noticed my flame looked a bit lazy or weird. Then I also noticed I could see fire between the rope gasket and face of the fire box. Just happened to notice it after turning all the lights out for bed. Some how the rope gasket was smashed over and not sealing. Weird..... So I fluffed the gasket (New stove last Oct) and it solved the issue.
I was not thrilled about this and for the life of me can not figure out how or why. The air leak made for a lazy type flame. Not horrible but not crisp and tight straight up vertical either. Maybe take another look at your rope gaskets. My stove is pretty well new and it was an issue.
After inspection I also noticed I can see a small little rectangular hole just above the upper door hinge bracket where it goes into the stove where it does not fit perfectly. I'll be calling my dealer Monday or taking my phone video shot to his shop to show him and see what can be done. I'm sure I could seal it but this definitely was missed in quality control. I'd say it's been like that from day one. A slight defect. bottom hing bracket going into the stove is very tight.
However back on the OP's problem. I just described mine so they can check other things too. I'd closely examine your gaskets. Both fire box door and ash door. Doesn't matter if they are or look new necessarily. Might have to do an inspection in the dark looking closely. Lazy flames usually = air leaks as everyone above mentions. Or possibly the other scenarios also.
Bio is the Preacher of Rope Gaskets and I took him seriously. Now I know beyond ANY reasonable doubt that he is more than correct. I didn't even think mine were broken in yet............
I was not thrilled about this and for the life of me can not figure out how or why. The air leak made for a lazy type flame. Not horrible but not crisp and tight straight up vertical either. Maybe take another look at your rope gaskets. My stove is pretty well new and it was an issue.
After inspection I also noticed I can see a small little rectangular hole just above the upper door hinge bracket where it goes into the stove where it does not fit perfectly. I'll be calling my dealer Monday or taking my phone video shot to his shop to show him and see what can be done. I'm sure I could seal it but this definitely was missed in quality control. I'd say it's been like that from day one. A slight defect. bottom hing bracket going into the stove is very tight.
However back on the OP's problem. I just described mine so they can check other things too. I'd closely examine your gaskets. Both fire box door and ash door. Doesn't matter if they are or look new necessarily. Might have to do an inspection in the dark looking closely. Lazy flames usually = air leaks as everyone above mentions. Or possibly the other scenarios also.
Bio is the Preacher of Rope Gaskets and I took him seriously. Now I know beyond ANY reasonable doubt that he is more than correct. I didn't even think mine were broken in yet............
alternativeheat
Minister of Fire
Bags, back in year one I changed out my lower door gasket on my P61. Looked fine but running a grill starter flame around the doors the flame got sucked right in the lower right corner of the ash pan door. rather than call the dealer I peeled it off and went down to the local hardware a half mile from my house and bought the next size thicker gasket. The door fits so much nicer now, a little more snug. There was no resistance on the latch before, brand new from the factory. next year will be year four ( fourth season burning it) with this stove, I may just change out the gaskets because it's year four ! LOL.
you know my gaskets look new but are flattened. so maybe there can be a leak using the lighter around the doors is good idea I will try it
how did you fluff up the gasket> did you take it out and roll it around then set it back. my ash door should have more resistance closing then it does know . I will use a lighter around the doors to see if the flame gets sucked in
alternativeheat
Minister of Fire
A lot of people like the dollar bill test. Open the door and close it down on a dollar bill ( guess fives and tens are too thick LOl ). There should be resistance pulling the bill out. but my thing with that is the stove has to be shut down really and a bill is fairly wide if you happen to have a 1" wide leak somewhere. With the flame, it literally gets sucked in at any leak point. Smoke works too, if you have an incense stick around or other smoke device.
Salt,
I did mine with the stove running. Get some glove and just squeeze it and pull it as you can. Mine was flattened pretty bad really for what it is and how old. I just took my fingers and pushe it down and up etc; You will see it fluff back out. Hopefully, this will help you and it could possibly be your issue since you have already checked and rechecked much. Many times it is something so simple and over looked.
I would not tear your gasket off unless you are ready to replace it and can shut down without the need for heat. It's an easy process just a little time and elbow grease. Also a small cash layout of $8 - $10 bucks for each need rope. they sell them everywhere. HD, Lowe's, TSC, and the like. The little kits come with the adhesive glue.
Get that checked out first to see if you are having the elusive air leaks. It seems you have covered most stuff and even done the good advice these guys / gals < Bogie have offered. I can not think of anything else that hasn't already been thrown out.
Alternative,
I have noticed my latching is more loose. Especially on my fire door. The PC45 with new ropes is SOOOOO much tighter. Makes the 68 feel sloppy almost.
I also think I will go up a size. Looks like 3/8" OEM but it seems like not much. What size did you use 1/2" ? My ash pan is tight but I will likely do that too. I think after what I found last night I'm doing the lighter and dollar bill tests. I did not even think I'd already have a rope gasket issue until a few years at least. It was totally off of my radar. I was kind of writing it off on the Greenways somewhat. My Bad!
Might be time to fire the 45 and do the ropes on the new one.... Looking at the 68's ropes they seem too small. Figures it happens when the colder stuff finally shows but no big deal. That's why I always have back ups and other heat options anyway.
Salt,
Hopefully this could also be your deal. let us know and Good Luck! Everyone above had you set straight and on the right track.
I did mine with the stove running. Get some glove and just squeeze it and pull it as you can. Mine was flattened pretty bad really for what it is and how old. I just took my fingers and pushe it down and up etc; You will see it fluff back out. Hopefully, this will help you and it could possibly be your issue since you have already checked and rechecked much. Many times it is something so simple and over looked.
I would not tear your gasket off unless you are ready to replace it and can shut down without the need for heat. It's an easy process just a little time and elbow grease. Also a small cash layout of $8 - $10 bucks for each need rope. they sell them everywhere. HD, Lowe's, TSC, and the like. The little kits come with the adhesive glue.
Get that checked out first to see if you are having the elusive air leaks. It seems you have covered most stuff and even done the good advice these guys / gals < Bogie have offered. I can not think of anything else that hasn't already been thrown out.
Alternative,
I have noticed my latching is more loose. Especially on my fire door. The PC45 with new ropes is SOOOOO much tighter. Makes the 68 feel sloppy almost.
I also think I will go up a size. Looks like 3/8" OEM but it seems like not much. What size did you use 1/2" ? My ash pan is tight but I will likely do that too. I think after what I found last night I'm doing the lighter and dollar bill tests. I did not even think I'd already have a rope gasket issue until a few years at least. It was totally off of my radar. I was kind of writing it off on the Greenways somewhat. My Bad!
Might be time to fire the 45 and do the ropes on the new one.... Looking at the 68's ropes they seem too small. Figures it happens when the colder stuff finally shows but no big deal. That's why I always have back ups and other heat options anyway.
Salt,
Hopefully this could also be your deal. let us know and Good Luck! Everyone above had you set straight and on the right track.
Ok, Just did the dollar bill and flame tests. I need new gaskets. No kidding. I did do the dollar bill test with a fire in the box although it is more of a maintenance burn. Hinge side is tight. Latch side is loosy goosy big time comparing the two. Hinge side is snug and good but as you get farther away and working towards the latch side it loosens. The left latch side is way more sloppy.
alternativeheat
Minister of Fire
Golfeur
Member
I was thinking of using a inch strip of aluminum flashing I have so much of it instead of a bill that might spark up lol to test for a leak. I wonder if it might be to stiff although it is very thin. the people here are the best and I think the gaskets are the last thing for me to check and might solve it
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I will have to look at that I was thinking of slightly bending the bracket making it tighter. I think the problem with mine is the door to the ash pan I will look for an adjustment on it
Bioburner
Moderator
Golfeur
Member
the only "adjustment I see on my P 43 for the door latch is to slightly bend the steel where the latch goes against when you lock it down. I just did it and the door really closes tight now. I will check the ash pan door tomorrow to see if I can get it to close tighter or check the gasket
Thanks and good point Bio. Hopefully Salt gets it remedied. I know what my issue is. Maybe his is the same....? I'd say the ash pan rope gets way overlooked vs. fire doors. The more i think it over though it does make sense the gasket take a beating when not in use. many live in a state of smashed up non stop even in the off season. I can see how they would tend to give up and flatten out. My 45 I left the doors cracked all summer. They are very tight and suffered no compression spell.
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