Hi! I have had a Harman P43 for about 10 years now, and it has never worked properly on room temperature/auto setting, which is a huge bummer. ESP probe, igniter, circuit board have been replaced, but I have to light it manually and keep it running on stove temp. It’s well-cleaned, front and back, to include all vents. While this is annoying, lately I’ve been noticing that even when the stove is completely shut down, with the dial turned to “off”, the stove will randomly try to start! It’s bizarre and it concerns me because it doesn’t light well on its own so usually gases build up and a small explosion happens, forcing smoke and soot into the house. Has anyone had a similar experience?
Harman P43 spontaneously ignites
- Thread starter Shookyjr
- Start date
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jzm2cc
Minister of Fire
Potentiometer on off dial is probably worn enough to make stove think it's on when in off position.
Do you clean within firepot often as well as making sure holes are open for easier igniter starts? If not ash builds up preventing igniter from working.
Do you clean within firepot often as well as making sure holes are open for easier igniter starts? If not ash builds up preventing igniter from working.
Definitely sounds like a worn potentiometer if it starts on its own... As for the igniter issue..Is it 100 percent clean and installed properly as well as the burn-pot holes clean? Also the fines box if clogged can sometimes cause these issues due to airflow, but what worries me is the violent manner in which it starts up which points to low draft/air supply then when it finally hits it burns all the gasses built up from the ignition process.
I'll second jzm2cc. My stove did the same thing which was fixed by replacing the pots. It was easy for me since I know how to solder on circuit boards. My stove will occasionally burst into flames upon start up. I consider it normal. You may want to try different pellets and make sure they are very dry before dropping them in.
I have a P-43 . I thought the air supply is regulated with the computer. I wish it had a manual air flow adjustment. what would cause low airflow /draft? I do not have detonation problem but sometimes the glass gets black I figure from not enough air like a carb getting black when the choke is stuck halfway
Buildup on glass could be from pellet type or even a leaky door seal/ slow combustion motor ...how is your combustion motor is it noisy? When you first start the stove cold it will be the only thing on.. I have seen personally when they make noise they turn too slow and give a bad burn. You almost shouldn’t even hear more than a whir . If it is groaning a bit then time to replace
Air regulation is done by the stove but if something is worn it wouldn’t compensate.
Stovepipe has to be clean and air intake has to be free as well.
Air regulation is done by the stove but if something is worn it wouldn’t compensate.
Stovepipe has to be clean and air intake has to be free as well.
thanks for the reply. my combustion motor is fine no noise at all. replaced gaskets. probably pellets doing it. wish I could adjust airflow . pipes are clean just with fine coat of ash. I do not have outside air and I see the inlet for it on the back of the stove and I think it has a flap on it.
I do clean the firepot often - actually I open everything up monthly and sweep/vac. It looks like the igniter is staying hot for a long time so maybe it’s time for a replacement. Anything I can do about the dial?
That’s definitely what worries me, too. I clean the fines box well and often.
You had ignition issues? And/or spontaneous ignition? I’m okay with replacing most parts, but I’m a bit hesitant to mess with soldering/circuit board...
As far as I know, the airflow is indeed supposed to be regulated by the computer, but ours is awful. The last tech we had here actually had me open a window in the house to see if that helps. So far it seems to, but I need to get to the bottom of this! Our glass is always black, too.
I have the P-43 I don't have that problem but I wish there was a manual knob to set airflow
Probably the only downfall of Harmans. Once the burnpot holes are covered with ash, it reduces the amount of air coming through which results in the black glass. It would be nice to have a manual damper rod. I wonder if anyone has removed the flapper and created some type of adjustable mechanism to slide over the intake opening.
I jammed my flapper open and it did not seem to make a difference. if it could get more air it would burn hotter. I wonder what would happen if the plate under the burn pot was left a little open by loosing the wing nuts
With the flapper open, it still covers some of the inlet tube. If it were removed, the inlet tube would be fully exposed. Not sure about the burn plate.
I mean the small plate that is under the ignitor. like when you take it off fine ash comes out and you have use your finger to get the ash out you can feel the fins on the ignitor
You can adjust the minimum draft on a P-43 via the a small screw in the control board. A Dwyer magnehelic gauge can be purchased via Ebay for ~$35 or so and really see what's going on at various times.
Yes, It adjusts the voltage to alter the draft. You can watch the draft gauge swing up or down as you tweak the voltage. It's pretty darn sensitive. Measuring the induced draft is a good diagnostic measure. If your combustion blower is on its way out you'll see a reduction.
YMMV,
Hugh
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