harman P61A door gasket..

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Tonyray

Minister of Fire
checked a few web sites and it seems that the door gaskets I have seen are either white or dark grey.
not sure which to get as mine is getting a bit ragged....[upper door gasket]..
 
The color really doesn't matter. As long as it is the correct size, installed properly & seals tightly, you are good.
 
The grey is impregnated with graphite. Seems to keep the fibers from crushing and helps keep its form longer in my experience. Worth the effort to use the grey and get a extra couple years out of the gasket job
 
The grey is impregnated with graphite. Seems to keep the fibers from crushing and helps keep its form longer in my experience. Worth the effort to use the grey and get a extra couple years out of the gasket job
makes sense...
i just ordered the grey and the gook cement......
thanks..
 
Couple of our local box stores and farm stores have got in the winter merchandise in and a gasket kit is around $10-12
When inserting into the channel don't pull the gasket but try and push it a bit to make it a bit plumper. A cheap drill powered wire brush makes the job pretty easy after one has pulled the old rope out and chipped out the old cement
 
checked a few web sites and it seems that the door gaskets I have seen are either white or dark grey.
not sure which to get as mine is getting a bit ragged....[upper door gasket]..
Are you going to update to Mirror Glass while you are at it???
 

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Couple of our local box stores and farm stores have got in the winter merchandise in and a gasket kit is around $10-12
When inserting into the channel don't pull the gasket but try and push it a bit to make it a bit plumper. A cheap drill powered wire brush makes the job pretty easy after one has pulled the old rope out and chipped out the old cement
thanks..
 
Couple of our local box stores and farm stores have got in the winter merchandise in and a gasket kit is around $10-12
When inserting into the channel don't pull the gasket but try and push it a bit to make it a bit plumper. A cheap drill powered wire brush makes the job pretty easy after one has pulled the old rope out and chipped out the old cement

any tips on what tool to use removing the old gasket other than a stiff scraper?
 
1/4 inch flat blade screwdriver and a drill powered wire brush to cleanup
 
replaced the gasket today....
used a dremel wire brush to get all the old adheasive off..
acetone after to clean the channels out..
went pretty easy....
notice that the factory gasket didn't have adheasive all thruout the channels..
only couple spots on each[4] channel..
 
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Did it help the fire up time? I know it helped on mine and used less pellets so well worth the effort and is a great short time project
 
replaced the gasket today....
used a dremel wire brush to get all the old adheasive off..
acetone after to clean the channels out..
went pretty easy....
notice that the factory gasket didn't have adheasive all thruout the channels..
only couple spots on each[4] channel..
Glad to hear you got it done tony. Just did mine too pretty easy job haven't fired mine yet but for all it took to do it should pay off big.
 
Funny, last weekend I replaced my ash pan gasket for the P61a. First time for replacing that one. Bought one of those wire wheels that attaches to my drill to clean . But that door doesn't have an actual channel. The door now fits more snugly than it ever has before and I used the Harman recommended 3/8" gasket. I probably just don't remember how it felt closing when the stove was new though.

I may go ahead and replace firebox door gasket too. I seem to recall reading that someone recommended using 1/2" gasket for the firebox door instead of the standard 3/8"? Has anyone else done that and how did it work out for you? Seems to me that the 3/8" gasket on that door gets flat fairly quickly even using the graphite impregnated stuff.
 
I think it was bags. He pulled the gasket to get it to shrink a bit
 
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Did it help the fire up time? I know it helped on mine and used less pellets so well worth the effort and is a great short time project
can't tell you yet.. won't be running the stove till mid October at the latest..
 
Funny, last weekend I replaced my ash pan gasket for the P61a. First time for replacing that one. Bought one of those wire wheels that attaches to my drill to clean . But that door doesn't have an actual channel. The door now fits more snugly than it ever has before and I used the Harman recommended 3/8" gasket. I probably just don't remember how it felt closing when the stove was new though.

I may go ahead and replace firebox door gasket too. I seem to recall reading that someone recommended using 1/2" gasket for the firebox door instead of the standard 3/8"? Has anyone else done that and how did it work out for you? Seems to me that the 3/8" gasket on that door gets flat fairly quickly even using the graphite impregnated stuff.
ok.. here's the scoop..
i used the 1/2" gasket.....White..
when I went to lock the door, it would not latch down..no matter how hard I pushed the door in. the handle locking mechanism on the inside would NOT go all the way in between the cutout [ears] for lack of a better word.. so, i just grabbed a pair of channel locks and bent both of the cutout ears a bit towards me or towards the outside.. that fixed it.. she locks good and tight.. and I mean TIGHT!!

NOTE: Just remembered something.. duh..

I always thought my stove door could have closed tighter last year so i looked at that cutout and noticed both ears bent a bit towards the front.. i'll bet when the original gasket was put on, the door would not latch so they prob bent it outwards a bit like i did yesterday.. anyways, I bent the ears inward last year as my gasket was getting a bit flat and then my door closed tighter... seems I had to do the same deal after I put the new gasket on and bend a bit outward... hope this all makes sense..!!!
 
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I used 3/8 gasket and pushed it together a bit and door shuts pretty tight not too sure I would go with 1/2 bogieb but let me know how it goes it was the first time I did the door so but I think if I used 1/2 I would have issues closing the door
 
Funny, last weekend I replaced my ash pan gasket for the P61a. First time for replacing that one. Bought one of those wire wheels that attaches to my drill to clean . But that door doesn't have an actual channel. The door now fits more snugly than it ever has before and I used the Harman recommended 3/8" gasket. I probably just don't remember how it felt closing when the stove was new though.

I may go ahead and replace firebox door gasket too. I seem to recall reading that someone recommended using 1/2" gasket for the firebox door instead of the standard 3/8"? Has anyone else done that and how did it work out for you? Seems to me that the 3/8" gasket on that door gets flat fairly quickly even using the graphite impregnated stuff.
2nd post on the door gasket:
my typo mistake..
i bought a 3/8 gasket... NOT the 1/2"
 
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Hey tony are u happy with the new seal
yes...
proud of myself that i did a good clean job of it..
dremel with a small wire wheel was the perfect tool for it..
not sure if a 1/2" gasket would let the door close since the harman has very small channels but could be wrong.. I wouldn't try it..
now the bottom ash pan door looks like No channel so 1/2" might work..
 
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yes...
proud of myself that i did a good clean job of it..
dremel with a small wire wheel was the perfect tool for it..
not sure if a 1/2" gasket would let the door close since the harman has very small channels but could be wrong.. I wouldn't try it..
now the bottom ash pan door looks like No channel so 1/2" might work..

I don't think 1/2" would work on the bottom door. I mean just the new 3/8" is very, very snug. That's why I wanted input on the 1/2" for the firebox door - don't want to make it impossible to close.
 
I don't think 1/2" would work on the bottom door. I mean just the new 3/8" is very, very snug. That's why I wanted input on the 1/2" for the firebox door - don't want to make it impossible to close.
agree about the ash pan door after looking at it again closely.
seems to close pretty tight so leaving it alone.
someone posted about stretching a 1/2" gasket for the top?
every tip i have read sez Not to stretch the new gasket when installing.. but,
with a 1/2" i assume it's needed. I'll decide about that next replace...
like someone to post if the 1/2" gasket fits when stretched..