My Harmon pp38+. Will not run its been cleaned,new esp ,circuit board has been tested can anyone offer any solutions
Harmon problems
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Look at the diagnostic blinking lights. Run it on (Test) . Make sure your ash drawer and main door is shut tight so the stove can develop a vacuum. Maybe try the dollar test- shut the door on a dollar bill and make sure it is tight. if it is loose you have a air leak so the stove can't build a vacuum.
Need more info.
Do the LEDs light up? Does the auger turn?
Post pic of control panel and stove. Does it have the old knobs or is it the latest panel?
If you put a test cord on the auger motor does it turn?
If you remove the auger motor can you turn the auger by hand?
Bioburner
Moderator
Put a test cord on the exhaust fan, if that does not work nothing else will start as the fan needs to make a vacuum to satisfy the vacuum switch before it will start the auger etc. The stove is not difficult if you start from the 1st stage and work through the normal sequence and rule out the each item.
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Bioburner
Moderator
It's older model no led lights have jumped all fans past circuit board and they work auger does not work until ESP reaches 185
Sounds like the 1st thing to do is pull that ESP probe and buff it out with a wire wheel on your Drill/Driver. If that does not help then a new circuit board will and in that case it may very well be time to upgrade to a nice new auto ignition kit!
Good luck.
Don
Northwoodneil
Feeling the Heat
Is the new ESP probe the same color (wire) as the old one? Red or black makes a difference on dip switch settings.
Bioburner
Moderator
He got anew ESP
oh, yes and if the connection is loose or the wrong color ESP for his board that is a problem. Should be a black ESP probe wire, the old boards do not have the DIP switch 5 for the new low voltage red ESP probe!
When circuit board was changed were all the wires hooked back up? When u turn it on it is completely dead? Can u go to turbo then off then back on quickly to put it in test mode? It is either wiring not hooked back up or a bad board. Or faulty new esp. Did you try running a extension cord from another outlet in a different room to rule out the outlet?
Bioburner
Moderator
The reason for checking with a different power outlet is that the board is polarity sensitive.
Board was tested does not work with old esp or new one power is coming to board have jumped board and fans work stove will not go into test mode
With info given sounds like board is bad. Try turning knob on to 5 and wiggle knob slightly back and forth to see if you get anything out of a motor. I know the pot assemblies are known for going bad over time. if esp is bad it usually keeps dist fan on high because it thinks stove is overheated from what I have experienced anyways. I have not seen a bad esp make the stove act dead, but I may have just not run into that yet.....
P38X2
Minister of Fire
If the old ESP was bad, and the new one has red wires and the board DOESN'T have the dip switches, as Don suggests, could this be the problem?
never ever do this...a wet paper towel will do the job just fine.
was new ESP spliced in or connected at the board? when you say "it wont go into test" do you mean none of the motors will engage in test? No combustion blower, no auger motor?
how was the board tested? The only way to test that board to my knowledge is to install it into another P38. No DDM port on the old one.
In most cases a paper towel and alcohol works well, there are some cases as a last resort to get all the rust and corrosion off you must go a little further.
Everybody keeps talking about different ways of cleaning the esp. If you look into the exhaust tunnel and the ash is not built up and encapsulating the probe it is fine. It is a temp sensor that is not going to be affected by a microthin coating. In my opinion there is more chance of harm than good by pulling it out all the time and cleaning it. If there is ash built up around probe run a 3" vent brush thru the tunnel it will clean it up. Just my 2 cents!
Sounds like bad board IMO....and I've been using a super soft bristle brush, for dryer lint screen slot I think, for quick clean of ESP and area.
The ESP is a very sensitive electronic component. One should never recommend using a drill mounted wire brush to clean it....
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