has anyone modified englander 30-nc?

[volks-man]

i was told that a moderator here had recently modded the englander 30.
i could not find it in a search.

i want to know if anyone has lowered the lip that guides the primary draft to 'wash' the glass. i feel like if it was an inch or so lower it would retain the occasional smoke leakage (when loading) better, keep the glass cleaner, and maybe flow down and back a bit better.
also, has anyone played with the hole angles on the secondary tubes? i feel like i could get a better re-burn if the rear tube was aimed down @ 7:00 - 8:00, and the center two @ 9:00.
and, has anyone opened up the hole in the primary draft thingamajig in the bottom front of the firebox?

what's been done to the 30 in your house?

 

[North of 60]

If anything, they are closing up that hole. What are your main issues and it can be taken from there. List your chimney set-up and wood seasoning time and species.
Welcome to the forum by the way.

 

[BrotherBart]

What is the problem you are trying to solve?

 

[volks-man]

i replaced a cfm 240007 with the englander.
the little cfm was a great burner but had a hard time keeping up on the coldest nights in jan-feb.

i have 6" doublewall 'superpipe' running straight up to a ceiling supported 6" supervent chimney. there are no bends/elbows anywhere in the pipe/flue. the height from floor to cap was 17 feet with the cfm for years and for the englander (for about a week) until i added another three feet. the 3 feet made no appreciable difference in the way the englander stove behaves. with that setup the cfm had FANTASTIC draft. i keep the chimney clean.

i am burning hardwood that has been stacked with airspace in a 3 sided building since last may. prior that the same wood was stacked split with airspace since the may before that, outside.

there are no draft competeing devices running in the house and the house is not tight at all... no insulation!

i have found that if i take my time loading on a bed of coals i will get a belch of smoke. not every time i open the door, but when i load too slowly and the wood starts to smolder.
i have found also that the airwash inlet doesn't cause the primary draft to circulate down and then rearward as well as the cfm did. wood at the rear of the stove doesn't get any primary draft. also, the secondaries do not function as well as the cfm. it seems like the the horizontal positioning of the tubes waits for the volatile gases to reach the absolute top of the stove before burning. if the rear most tube was aimed down, and re-burn occured lower in the rear of the stove, the firewood in the back wood burn better and the secondary intake would get hotter causing all of the secondaries to function better. final thing; the draft controll doesn't seem to have much effect for the outermost 1/3 of it's travel.

mind you, i am getting great heat and decent burn times but i think i can fine tune it and do better.

 

[SmokeyCity]

I have also noticed that the 30 lets a lot of smoke out when the door opens. Since I reload more often than most folks - it is an annoyance.

The solution to the smoking open door isue is not simple. We need to arrange the ceramic tiles with the split going E/W so that a lever can tip the rear panel upward at the rearmost edge to direct the smoke to the outlet. This would require drilling ....

As for the tubes - are their rotation angles adjustable or fixed ?

Oh yeah - now for the most needed mod .... a thermostat that is as accurate effective as the BK

Now you the best stove for the buck that was ever made....

If you try any mods update us on how they seem to perform..

Might be worth a try

i replaced a cfm 240007 with the englander.
the little cfm was a great burner but had a hard time keeping up on the coldest nights in jan-feb.

i have 6" doublewall 'superpipe' running straight up to a ceiling supported 6" supervent chimney. there are no bends/elbows anywhere in the pipe/flue. the height from floor to cap was 17 feet with the cfm for years and for the englander (for about a week) until i added another three feet. the 3 feet made no appreciable difference in the way the englander stove behaves. with that setup the cfm had FANTASTIC draft. i keep the chimney clean.

i am burning hardwood that has been stacked with airspace in a 3 sided building since last may. prior that the same wood was stacked split with airspace since the may before that, outside.

there are no draft competeing devices running in the house and the house is not tight at all... no insulation!

i have found that if i take my time loading on a bed of coals i will get a belch of smoke. not every time i open the door, but when i load too slowly and the wood starts to smolder.
i have found also that the airwash inlet doesn't cause the primary draft to circulate down and then rearward as well as the cfm did. wood at the rear of the stove doesn't get any primary draft. also, the secondaries do not function as well as the cfm. it seems like the the horizontal positioning of the tubes waits for the volatile gases to reach the absolute top of the stove before burning. if the rear most tube was aimed down, and re-burn occured lower in the rear of the stove, the firewood in the back wood burn better and the secondary intake would get hotter causing all of the secondaries to function better. final thing; the draft controll doesn't seem to have much effect for the outermost 1/3 of it's travel.

mind you, i am getting great heat and decent burn times but i think i can fine tune it and do better.

 

[volks-man]

thanks for your input, smokey.

hhmmm.
a baffle bypass system....
or how about a simple L shaped bracket that pivots in front of the opening. with the door shut the L holds a flap just under horizontal at the top of the door opening. when the door opens the flap drops down and shrouds the top couple inches of the doorway.

the tubes clock postition, to my knowledge, are fixed by way of the tab where the retaining screw sits.... no matter, as you could turn the tube to the postition desired and snug it down with a srew through a simple Y-shaped washer that presses against the OEM retaining tab.

I have also noticed that the 30 lets a lot of smoke out when the door opens. Since I reload more often than most folks - it is an annoyance.

The solution to the smoking open door isue is not simple. We need to arrange the ceramic tiles with the split going E/W so that a lever can tip the rear panel upward at the rearmost edge to direct the smoke to the outlet. This would require drilling ....

As for the tubes - are their rotation angles adjustable or fixed ?

Oh yeah - now for the most needed mod .... a thermostat that is as accurate effective as the BK

Now you the best stove for the buck that was ever made....

If you try any mods update us on how they seem to perform..

Might be worth a try

i replaced a cfm 240007 with the englander.
the little cfm was a great burner but had a hard time keeping up on the coldest nights in jan-feb.

i have 6" doublewall 'superpipe' running straight up to a ceiling supported 6" supervent chimney. there are no bends/elbows anywhere in the pipe/flue. the height from floor to cap was 17 feet with the cfm for years and for the englander (for about a week) until i added another three feet. the 3 feet made no appreciable difference in the way the englander stove behaves. with that setup the cfm had FANTASTIC draft. i keep the chimney clean.

i am burning hardwood that has been stacked with airspace in a 3 sided building since last may. prior that the same wood was stacked split with airspace since the may before that, outside.

there are no draft competeing devices running in the house and the house is not tight at all... no insulation!

i have found that if i take my time loading on a bed of coals i will get a belch of smoke. not every time i open the door, but when i load too slowly and the wood starts to smolder.
i have found also that the airwash inlet doesn't cause the primary draft to circulate down and then rearward as well as the cfm did. wood at the rear of the stove doesn't get any primary draft. also, the secondaries do not function as well as the cfm. it seems like the the horizontal positioning of the tubes waits for the volatile gases to reach the absolute top of the stove before burning. if the rear most tube was aimed down, and re-burn occured lower in the rear of the stove, the firewood in the back wood burn better and the secondary intake would get hotter causing all of the secondaries to function better. final thing; the draft controll doesn't seem to have much effect for the outermost 1/3 of it's travel.

mind you, i am getting great heat and decent burn times but i think i can fine tune it and do better.

 

[Mt Ski Bum]

I have also noticed that the 30 lets a lot of smoke out when the door opens. Since I reload more often than most folks - it is an annoyance.

The solution to the smoking open door isue is not simple. We need to arrange the ceramic tiles with the split going E/W so that a lever can tip the rear panel upward at the rearmost edge to direct the smoke to the outlet.
Might be worth a try

Englanger just needs to build their stoves with a bypass damper... I know Lopi/Avalon put bypass dampers on their medium & large stoves... with out using one so equiped myself, I've heard they help out with smokey start-ups & re-loads alot... if you could figure out a relatively easy way to remove a brick or two from the baffle & replace it with a metal damper plate, it might be worth it. I'm not sure how you'd install a handle to control it with while keeping the stove air-tight...

If anyone does a bypass-damper mod, I'd be interested to hear how it goes!

 

[North of 60]

I have also noticed that the 30 lets a lot of smoke out when the door opens. Since I reload more often than most folks - it is an annoyance

Your a hard guy to figure out Smokey. You have many posts braggin about your awesome draft with a 10 by 10 stone chimney that is way more than double the square inches in diameter that is recommended along with another draft stomping device called a magic heat. Those two things are your smoke out the door issue. Redesigning a stove that has had its heart poured into by the designer that gave an install manual to follow that you have broken a few good rules on does not justify a redesign by yourself. I will leave you alone now. :roll:

 

[volks-man]

I have also noticed that the 30 lets a lot of smoke out when the door opens. Since I reload more often than most folks - it is an annoyance

Your a hard guy to figure out Smokey. You have many posts braggin about your awesome draft with a 10 by 10 stone chimney that is way more than double the square inches in diameter that is recommended along with another draft stomping device called a magic heat. Those two things are your smoke out the door issue. Redesigning a stove that has had its heart poured into by the designer that gave an install manual to follow that you have broken a few good rules on does not justify a redesign by yourself. I will leave you alone now. :roll:

smokey has 'two draft stompers'....

care to explain why my stove smokes too? i would appreciate any insight any members here may have; thats why i joined up.
please read my 2nd post above and tell me where i am going wrong.

i think it is what it is..... a good stove for low $$$. a little more engineering and a few dollars more in parts could yield a first class machine. as delivered it leaves a bit to be desired.

 

[SmokeyCity]

I have also noticed that the 30 lets a lot of smoke out when the door opens. Since I reload more often than most folks - it is an annoyance

Your a hard guy to figure out Smokey. You have many posts braggin about your awesome draft with a 10 by 10 stone chimney that is way more than double the square inches in diameter that is recommended along with another draft stomping device called a magic heat. Those two things are your smoke out the door issue. Redesigning a stove that has had its heart poured into by the designer that gave an install manual to follow that you have broken a few good rules on does not justify a redesign by yourself. I will leave you alone now. :roll:

Im going to remove that magic gadget after this load burns cold and I will see if that helps. The gadget is not performing well lately anyway (different thread) so I will not miss it. I wish there was something I could do about the chimney but I just cant see spending *thousands* to buy 60 ft of Simpson SS just to choke down the volume.

Hopefully the guy who designed this thing wont read this forum and see my redesign blasphemy.

too much time on my hands for thinking out loud about this stuff.
Ill leave it alone now

 

[North of 60]

I have also noticed that the 30 lets a lot of smoke out when the door opens. Since I reload more often than most folks - it is an annoyance

Your a hard guy to figure out Smokey. You have many posts ss="spellchecked_word">braggin</SPAN> about your awesome draft with a 10 by 10 stone chimney that is way more than double the square inches in diameter that is recommended along with another draft stomping device called a magic heat. Those two things are your smoke out the door issue. Redesigning a stove that has had its heart poured into by the designer that gave an install manual to follow that you have broken a few good rules on does not justify a redesign by yourself. I will leave you alone now. :roll:

ss="spellchecked_word">Im</SPAN> going to remove that magic gadget after this load burns cold and I will see if that helps. The gadget is not performing well lately anyway (different thread) so I will not miss it. I wish there was something I could do about the chimney but I just cant see spending *thousands* to buy 60 ft of Simpson SS just to choke down the volume.

Hopefully the guy who designed this thing wont read this forum and see my redesign blasphemy.

too much time on my hands for thinking out loud about this stuff.
Ill leave it alone now

Sorry, but had to help you with this info.

(broken link removed to http://www.elitedeals.com/duraflex-ss-chimney-liner-lengths.html)

With my quick calcs it seems your cost for 60ft is less than $700 not thousands of $
60ft? OK, thats some chimney. Cant understand that by your photos. 10by10 to a 6" is not choking it down. Its speeding up the stack velocity.
Sorry to the original poster for kinda moving from your topic. The only answere for you and a bit for Smoky is that you also must be reloading with a good bit of un-burnt fuel to have that much smoke to cause a problem if your setup follows the manufactures spec as not everyone has your problems.
I am trying to help. :cheese:
Cheers

 

[SmokeyCity]

all help appreciated - will read more write less

thanks

Sorry, but had to help you with this info.

(broken link removed to http://www.elitedeals.com/duraflex-ss-chimney-liner-lengths.html)

With my quick calcs it seems your cost for 60ft is less than $700 not thousands of $
60ft? OK, thats some chimney. Cant understand that by your photos. 10by10 to a 6" is not choking it down. Its speeding up the stack velocity.
Sorry to the original poster for kinda moving from your topic. The only answere for you and a bit for Smoky is that you also must be reloading with a good bit of un-burnt fuel to have that much smoke to cause a problem if your setup follows the manufactures spec as not everyone has your problems.
I am trying to help. :cheese:
Cheers