Have a blockage in left heat exchanger tube...Please helpP

[huntersh2]

Hello all

I hope all is great with everyone and I want to thank you ahead of time for your time with this and for helping me. I don't know what to do. I have a 2010 Harmon Accented Insert. I had it professionally cleaned also and I know they didn't get all the way through either, but just didn't tell me, because I found a rock like blockage in the bottom of the combustion fan access point opening right where it meets the right one. I thought this was block but it wasn't. There must be more because last night I took the whole thing apart and for 3 hours I cleaned every piece of every part. It's mint. Only problem is I can't get harmen brush (junk) to go all the way through the back part of the left heat exchanger run. It goes 75% through (clears corner ) and then gets stuck. When I take it out it is wet and some chunks so I know it's blocked back there. I did this full cleaning all of a sudden because my stove would not shut off. I read in a forum that it said the ESP probe needed to be cleaned, which I did and some said a block could go this. I stuck the Harmin brush in there 50 times. And pushed with all had. Just coils up. I taped it with duct tape and same thing. I used coat hangers and even flex tubing taped to my ash vac to sick stuff out. Sane result stuck. I even went through the access point in back right and can't move it. You guys really are amazing at this and I always seek your advice when needing help. Please perform some more of your magic and help me. I don't know what else to do.
Thanks
Shaun

 

[Peterfield]

Another poster had the same issue and used a coat hanger to gradually break down the blockage. A plumbing snake would also be effective in this. Now, if your Harman has an Italian "accent", play some opera music while cleaning.

 

[pfmaloney]

Once the blockage is removed, the Harman brush does a good job at keeping it clear. I clean the pathways as part of my weekly cleaning. I find it helpful to use needle nose pliers to get the brush that extra couple of inches so that I can see it with a flashlight on the other side.

 

[bogieb]

If that is anything like the blockage my Hastings had when I bought it (used), it took a lot of poking, prodding and scraping with wire to get rid of it. It is amazing how hard that ash can compact!

 

[alternativeheat]

Seems like you need some hard wire or a snake and spin it with a drill and keep working at it. But here is the thing, don't let it get like that again, clean it more often. Cleaning is an easy task if done often enough because it never gets clogged like it is now.

 

[huntersh2]

Sorry about the misspelled word. Phones and auto correct. Accentra... isn't a word thanks for all your responses. I need to get a snake. Think that may work. Wires and clothes hangers and reinforced Harmen wire brush all failed. And I do clean all the time. Had professionally cleaned 2 x ...I couldn't get all the way through since day 1. This brush stinks. Thanks guys. You really are all great..
Shaun

 

[Ambient]

Sorry about the misspelled word. Phones and auto correct. Accentra... isn't a word thanks for all your responses. I need to get a snake. Think that may work. Wires and clothes hangers and reinforced Harmen wire brush all failed. And I do clean all the time. Had professionally cleaned 2 x ...I couldn't get all the way through since day 1. This brush stinks. Thanks guys. You really are all great..
Shaun

If it's a straight shot, they make 54" long 3/8 inch drill bits available at HD or Lowes just be certain of what you're drilling

 

[huntersh2]

It's not a straight shot in the back of the Accentra. It takes a 90 degree angle. So I need something that makes a 90 degree angle and still can chip away at this blockage.

Hmmm

 

[womaus]

It's not a straight shot in the back of the Accentra. It takes a 90 degree angle. So I need something that makes a 90 degree angle and still can chip away at this blockage.

Hmmm

If I was you I would pick up one of these:



http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x...C-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-100534792-_-N

The modify it to a lesser length...with a hacksaw or a grinder. Figure out what the length is of the tube itself, then add on a couple of feet, cut it there. Much easier to handle, less chance of damaging anything nearby.

I'm recommending that one, the 1/2", rather than the less expensive 1/4" one...it will punch a larger hole faster, and less kinking while doing the twist.

 

[alternativeheat]

I'm thinking 3/8" should work. Not be wimpy like a 1/4" but make the bends better than 1/2". You probably don't need more than 3-5 ft of it and clamp that into an electric drill. Keep working it into the blockage. Not sure, my stove isn't designed that way, but seems to me it should break through most clogs.

Something bothering me though is the OP said its been like this since day one.

Another thing, the ash he is getting at is wet. Why ? Is this chimney capped with a termination cap/top hat or something to keep rain out?

 

[womaus]

I'm thinking 3/8" should work. Not be wimpy like a 1/4" but make the bends better than 1/2".

The "cutter" end is the 1/2", the cable itself is probably 1/4". Should have no issues making the bend...and it will be stronger fro punching through the blockage.

 

[Lake Girl]

Something bothering me though is the OP said its been like this since day one.

Another thing, the ash he is getting at is wet. Why ? Is this chimney capped with a termination cap/top hat or something to keep rain out?

Makes you wonder ... bad initial installation.
Obviously, the professional never advised that there was a problem when they were cleaning either ...

 

[alternativeheat]

Makes you wonder ... bad initial installation.
Obviously, the professional never advised that there was a problem when they were cleaning either ...

Wet ash will dry hard or at least clumpy and it shouldn't be getting wet. Not to mention the presence of moisture enough to see wet ash can rust out the heat exchanger or other parts in due time. I'd be looking into that chimney topper if it was mine.

 

[Peterfield]

Wet ash will dry hard or at least clumpy and it shouldn't be getting wet. Not to mention the presence of moisture enough to see wet ash can rust out the heat exchanger or other parts in due time. I'd be looking into that chimney topper if it was mine.

The previous poster with the same clogged vent tube also reported the asg was moist when he broke it up.

 

[Lake Girl]

Here's the thread that Peterfield mentioned .... https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...changer-area-please-help.119709/#post-1602382

Keep on working to clean that blockage ... let us know what you have tried and what is most successful in removing the blockage.

 

[alternativeheat]

Here's the thread that Peterfield mentioned .... https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...changer-area-please-help.119709/#post-1602382

Keep on working to clean that blockage ... let us know what you have tried and what is most successful in removing the blockage.

That's great ! But I don't agree with the information that the blocked exchanger side is over heating and melting the ash. Far more likely it's under heating and causing condensation actually. Any creosote present can melt and drip too, or mix with water which will drip out black at a temperature much lower than what would possible melt ash . Once the blockage is cleared then a good hot fire will get rid of the rest of the black, IMO.

Also, I think these are older model Accentra inserts, in the newer Accentra 52i I believe Harman changed up a bit and this probably isn't happening with them. Again, I restate, once it's clean keep it clean. Clean often and well.

 

[TLHinCanada]

just install a drolet 065. They require an insulated oak to prevent condensation in the combustion air.

 

[Peterfield]

That's great ! But I don't agree with the information that the blocked exchanger side is over heating and melting the ash. Far more likely it's under heating and causing condensation actually. Any creosote present can melt and drip too, or mix with water which will drip out black at a temperature much lower than what would possible melt ash . Once the blockage is cleared then a good hot fire will get rid of the rest of the black, IMO.

Also, I think these are older model Accentra inserts, in the newer Accentra 52i I believe Harman changed up a bit and this probably isn't happening with them. Again, I restate, once it's clean keep it clean. Clean often and well.

I have the newer 52i and they took out that vent channel in the redesign.