Have less than 1/16" of glazed creosote in chimney. Stop operation?

[4fire]

All this talk about stove temp vs flue temp makes my head hurt. Most insert owners don't monitor flue temps and they seem to be OK.
Get stove hot enough for secondary burn.
Gradually shut air down.
Let stove do it's thing with secondary burn and a low air setting (off in some cases).

 

[Big Dan]

I wouldn't use nothing but a poly brush on something stainless steel. I bet a flat wire steel brush will get that glaze off.

 

[Kosmik]

The single wall glaze is closer to scale than glaze, I guess.
Poly is taking scabs off here and there. Going into town to see if can find 6" wire, using electric on this warm night, nothing worse than the buildup the single wall had last time. At least isn't shiny and tarry like it was in the chimney first time.
Took a little extra time to remove some crap, guessing it was hitemp silicon, saw some burned, was too lazy to get it all out last time.
Have little brass brush for doing the stove collar and such that it reaches.

Found out today, as I have chimney taped up with garbage bag, that the combination of wind, ghetto architecture and not meeting min clearance at 10' is causing those instances of it 'getting away from me'. The garbage bag would billow in and out, during some of the more violent gusts.

So I guess smaller loads with the air control open more should be my next course of action. (rental I ain't putting more money into it, besides new brushes).
As bigger loads would require closing air control all the way and keeping stack magnetic thermometer at ~150-200 with a stove top at 650.
Even though they say you can go into a 10"...I'm only going from 6" to 8" and it must be slowing down the draft too much to get that nice relationship between stovetop and flue temp.

Getting moisture meter so I can go through all my wood, too. And split and test the lumber scraps I have available, they burn down nice, so I'm thinking they're good. Been having too many pieces of wood that get to the coal stage and won't keep burning, need kindling, ect. So at least I'll be able to put a number to wood that burns like that.

The good thing is when it comes time for me to do an install properly...I'll be ready.
And was really glad was able to get the stuff out of the chimney.

I think I've rounded down most of the issues, just a matter of getting through it for the rest of the winter.
I'll be giving the ACS a try too. But the TSP product seemed to be helping at least in the chimney.

 

[Kosmik]

Well, I think that a lot of the stuff I was seeing was left over from last sweep. Got a 6" metal brush and it swept most the crud out of the stovepipe. No more shiny crap.
I'll keep going with the TSP, seems to be helping was able to sweep most the crud left over from last time, and no tar (partly due to higher temps).
So piping a lot better than after first sweep.
Hopefully be even better next time.
And going to start using some of this scrap lumber to get the flue hot before using any of my 'seasoned' firewood.

Just glad I didn't wait 2 months to look at it.

Until next time.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I know I'm a little late to this opinion fest, so here's mine: As long as you're drafting well I wouldn't bother with any of that and just keep burning.

 

[Kosmik]

Problem is I get a good load in and the crosswinds start billowing the coals and then I'm packing foil in the openings...
The chimney is not sufficiently tall, windy area...
I'm thinking I know the reason there was a pellet stove in there earlier.

If I get a big hot load in there, and put air control all the way down...Stack temp drops...

A lot is just learning how to get a comfortable roll with my wood and environment...And 6" going into 8" chimney..

All in all, I'm burning again, it's working and just in time for some spring temps

But I'm getting more of that scrap lumber, it's burning much better than my firewood.