I've got some Stihl bars 20 years old, cut I don't know how much wood, and none look even close to yours. Something really wrong, I can't tell what from the pics. A too-dry chain usually has wood 'welded' to the tops of the cutters, I don't see that on yours. Maybe a chain run way too tight? Or a bad un-heat treated bar? I don't know, from the paint loss it must have been ready to turn blue.
Having trouble with Stihl customer service
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ErikR
Burning Hunk
What causes the bar to turn blue-black like that... Heat from a dull chain? Oil issues... too tight?
I was over at my brother in-law's place a few weeks ago and we cut up some winter fallen oak and maple. My Husqvarna 450 was out cutting his 16" Stihl. I don't mean that as a saw comparison, just an observation. His bar had those same black-blue marks on both the top and bottom. I noticed he cuts using mostly the far end of the bar. That's where the the marks are.
I tend to rock the saw through the log with the dogs on the log. My saw is only 3 years old but it's bucked several cords of logs and almost all the paint is still on my bar, while the BIL's bar has almost no paint left on it and has big blue-black burnt looking sections. Is he running the saw too long on a dull chain?
I should have checked out his chains for sharpness and tightness
I was over at my brother in-law's place a few weeks ago and we cut up some winter fallen oak and maple. My Husqvarna 450 was out cutting his 16" Stihl. I don't mean that as a saw comparison, just an observation. His bar had those same black-blue marks on both the top and bottom. I noticed he cuts using mostly the far end of the bar. That's where the the marks are.
I tend to rock the saw through the log with the dogs on the log. My saw is only 3 years old but it's bucked several cords of logs and almost all the paint is still on my bar, while the BIL's bar has almost no paint left on it and has big blue-black burnt looking sections. Is he running the saw too long on a dull chain?
I should have checked out his chains for sharpness and tightness
Firewood Bandit
Minister of Fire
splitoak
Member
Those are heat marks from chain friction....ive only seen this on a bar that was run dry....that will def ruin an expensive chain....i had the same problem on ms290 brand new after a few cuts the chain would not turn...so i turned the oiler all the way up...i also use 50 /50 mix bar oil and canola oil now it helps...i think its crappy that they refuse to service an under warranty saw...if they sold that saw with a 20"..that is what the heck they should be covering...a reputable dealer would fix it..whatever it took...opening the oiler a bit or whatever..i hope u get this resolved...stihl stuff is very expensive..bars and chains...
Just asking the question...how tight do you adjust the chain? If you lift up on it, how high can you lift it?
Ashful
Minister of Fire
While proper chain adjustment is important, I think it would be tough to do that kind of damage to a bar with a too-snug chain, if all else is as it should be. Sharp chain with rakers set right, clean groove, proper chain gauge for the bar, functional oiler and sprocket nose... I don't see how a too-tight chain alone can cause that level of damage to the bar.
Has the OP answered all of these questions?
1. Sharp chain?
2. Proper depth gauge height?
3. Chain gauge, bar gauge?
I do recall him addressing the oiler test (spray off nose of bar), but don't remember seeing responses to any of these other questions.
Has the OP answered all of these questions?
1. Sharp chain?
2. Proper depth gauge height?
3. Chain gauge, bar gauge?
I do recall him addressing the oiler test (spray off nose of bar), but don't remember seeing responses to any of these other questions.
There could be a combination of smaller issues that add up to a perfect storm. Just asking the questions for clarification.
The blue -black is from the factory heat treatment. You will see that on a new laminated bar if you remove the paint.What causes the bar to turn blue-black like that... Heat from a dull chain? Oil issues... too tight?
I was over at my brother in-law's place a few weeks ago and we cut up some winter fallen oak and maple. My Husqvarna 450 was out cutting his 16" Stihl. I don't mean that as a saw comparison, just an observation. His bar had those same black-blue marks on both the top and bottom. I noticed he cuts using mostly the far end of the bar. That's where the the marks are.
I tend to rock the saw through the log with the dogs on the log. My saw is only 3 years old but it's bucked several cords of logs and almost all the paint is still on my bar, while the BIL's bar has almost no paint left on it and has big blue-black burnt looking sections. Is he running the saw too long on a dull chain?
I should have checked out his chains for sharpness and tightness
ErikR
Burning Hunk
Fifelaker is right that is from the hardening process of the bar. Answers to those questions.
1 . I sharpened the chain 3 times with a bar jig and had a dealer do it 3 other times with his bench mounted sharpener when I had the oiler checked. Chain is razor sharp
2. Proper height of kickers is good . I filed them and dealer ground them.
3. That was the chain that came with the saw . It better be right( I had another dealer check it out. .325 with 81 links) its right
I've owned 3 other Stihl saws and never had any issues with them . Plan to buy another , or a jonsered lol
1 . I sharpened the chain 3 times with a bar jig and had a dealer do it 3 other times with his bench mounted sharpener when I had the oiler checked. Chain is razor sharp
2. Proper height of kickers is good . I filed them and dealer ground them.
3. That was the chain that came with the saw . It better be right( I had another dealer check it out. .325 with 81 links) its right
I've owned 3 other Stihl saws and never had any issues with them . Plan to buy another , or a jonsered lol
There's something [but I don't know what] causing that bar damage besides raker height. I can't tell much from your pics, but my thought is if you sharpened that chain only 3 times with a file, the rakers should not even need to be touched. Same with the dealers grinding job, unless he ground half the cutter away. If they're too low, you get a grabby chain that catches all the time, too high you have to bear down to cut, even with a sharp chain. I don't think thats the answer here.
It does cut well. And I'm not so sure what the issue is either. Thought maybe the spring that is incorporated with check valve on the oiler might be bad.
I agree that you have received plenty of good advice (mostly). I especially like the insertion of the STIHL Chain Saw Safety Maintenance & Operation Video, I can't overemphasize the value watching it from start to finish can have for you. As the Team Lead for the Tech Support Team at STIHL your mention of having spoken w/ STIHL caught my eye and what has transpired since to resolve your issues is something with which I may be able to assist you. Can you say with whom you spoke at STIHL and the STIHL dealer with whom you are working? If needed, maybe I can help.
Welcome aboard jz-h73vt. Good to have a support rep from Stihl on board. If I may... If personal info is going to be handed back and forth you may want to do that in a PM (message). This is a very public forum.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
maple1
Minister of Fire
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