Hearth vs firebox height. Do I level them?

[NewbernD]

Hi all. new guy here. I've found lots of good info here. thanks for that.

I am about to pull the trigger on a Clydesdale but before I do, I have a silly question. The height of my hearth (brick) is about 3/4" higher than the level of the firebox floor. I am also debating on tiling over the hearth surface also which would exaggerate this difference. Is this step going to make it a pain to install/remove the insert? Should I be looking to fill the difference with concrete? If so, should I be using any particular variety? Need for special surface prep or just a thorough cleaning?

Thanks for your help!

Dave

 

[Todd]

I think there might be leveling bolts on the insert to help you out. Or you can use a couple fire bricks like I did with my old insert.

 

[Turner-n-Burner]

Hi Dave,

You may have noticed the other posts recently about my Clydesdale install.... You made a GREAT choice


I think because of the weight of the insert, it would be a lot easier to build up the level of the firebox floor first. That will make it easier to get the insert in and out again if you need too. The insert is VERY heavy, and it gets very awkward to move once most of it is in the firebox - you can't really reach the best points to lift from, so you have to sort of walk it in. I cannot imagine trying to do that with the front and rear surfaces at different levels.

There are leveling bolts, but at least on mine, the upper nuts weren't locked, so you needed to make adjustments from the lower portion of the foot - once the back of the stove is in the fireplace, you can forget about reaching it

I don't think I'd go through the trouble of using concrete - I think I'd just try and find some bricks the right thickness.

-Dan

 

[jldunn]

Just a quick note on leveling, definitely make sure it doesn't have any degree of a forward tilt. I'd even suggest maybe a slight back tilt (very very slight).

All the people with posts about leaving the front door of their insert cracked open to increase airflow during startup.... if you have any sort of forward tilt there's no cracking of the door. It swings wide open if it's not latched.

 

[begreen]

I agree about the concerns regarding sliding that monster in and out of the fireplace, but perhaps the stove would slide much easier on steel than concrete. You might consider putting down some stout steel plate to make up the height difference. You can buy it at the scrap yard. Sounds like about 4- 3/8" x 8" x 30? (fireplace depth) plates would work.

 

[wg_bent]

How about a false floor made out of Durock. 2 sheets of Durock cut to fit the inside of the fireplace could be removed if you want, and would meet nicely with the tile. Any additional adjustment would be made with the leveling bolts.

 

[Mike Wilson]

I had a similar issue 3 years ago with my installation. I think the firebox was 1/4 or 1/2 inch lower than the hearth. My solution was to buy some Durock and cut it to fit the firebox. The insert sits atop the Durock, and should slide out easier (durock has a very smooth side which I faced up), if I ever need to move it (which I hope I don't).

-- Mike

 

[begreen]

Durock should work ok, but I'd put a layer of 24 ga sheetmetal on top to provide greater crush resistance and to make it slide in and out easier for service.