Hearthstone Green Mountain 60 - ISSUES

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Drylightning

New Member
Feb 26, 2021
14
Massachusetts
How will you clean a gallon of creosote out of the bottom leg of the tee with the foot of liner and cap on it every time you sweep?

If you resolve that (perhaps by dropping liner all the way down and capping it in the basement), you still have a short flue with an uninsulated liner.

Gonna have to agree with bholler.... you're best off with a do-over if you can get your money back.

I think we'll need to vacuum it out, though I agree it'd be better if it went down further.

I would love to go back in time and do it right, but we made a bad decision. I don't see us getting our money back. We paid $1800, and the liner itself was about $700. Really think we're going to have to find a way to cap the liner...
 

Drylightning

New Member
Feb 26, 2021
14
Massachusetts
Just shove your shop vac tube in from the thimble. I’ve cleaned out catch basins with a similar method. Doesn’t need to be perfect.

I wonder if there’s some sort of plug you can insert from the thimble.

In the meantime. Like for today. If you do a bang up job of sealing the clean out door then your chimney is once again sealed. It’s cold down at the clean out so even silicone might work.

I'm hoping there's some easy way to insert too.

Regarding the door in the basement, I'm considering just sealing it off with several trash bags and duct tape. Once we see how much that helps, we'll look at a more permanent fix for the door. Of course, if we can get a cap in, I don't think the door will have much effect on the draft.
 

bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
25,557
central pa
Wouldn't capping the bottom of the liner solve this? If no air flows to or from the basement portion of the chimney, then does it matter if the basement is sealed?
Yes but the you don't have the use of your clean out. And you still have an uninsulated liner
 

Drylightning

New Member
Feb 26, 2021
14
Massachusetts
If we have a cap on the bottom, we can clean the creosote by reaching into the T, right? There won't be any in the basement.

Regarding the liner, it makes sense to me that since the chimney is in the middle of the house it doesn't necessarily need insulation.
 

Highbeam

Minister of Fire
Dec 28, 2006
19,164
Mt. Rainier Foothills, WA
Chimney gas temperatures are between 400 and 900. Whether your masonry is 70 or 0 is not much difference. The liner insulation is keeping really high temperatures high.
 

bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
25,557
central pa
If we have a cap on the bottom, we can clean the creosote by reaching into the T, right? There won't be any in the basement.

Regarding the liner, it makes sense to me that since the chimney is in the middle of the house it doesn't necessarily need insulation.
The insulation is there to protect your house more than anything else. It is more important on internal chimneys. Code requires 2" clearance to combustibles from the outside of the masonry structure for internal chimneys and 1" for external. Insulation reduces that to zero. Yes you get performance gains as well but the safety aspect is more important.
 
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Woody Stover

Minister of Fire
Dec 25, 2010
12,266
Southern IN
I really should have checked here first...
Years ago, I kept running across this "hearth.com thing" in searches, but I landed at the old, somewhat murky home page and never made it to the forums. I finally got here about a decade ago, thankfully before I burned my house down by burning wet wood through a poor venting system and only cleaning my farm store snap-together connector-pipe "liner" when the draft would slow down from flaky creo that had fallen to the elbow and closed it half way off. :eek:
 
Last edited:

cabinwarmer

Member
Sep 11, 2020
183
SE PA
Drylightning, I am late to this post but would like to provide you with some thoughts.. I can assure you the GM 60 runs like a tank once you get this straightened out. I will comment on the stove only as you have received A+ info from the gentlemen on here. The stove will kick back some smoke into your room if you do not 1) open up the main inlet all the way, 2) engage the CAT bypass, handle down 3) crack the door for a few seconds before opening. Not sure about how your fan unit also may be effecting this. The flue also needs to be up to temp. I run mine between 450-550F flue temp. Get a digital flue probe if you do not have one. Do those three things once you have the flue straight and you will be fine. If you clogged the CATs you may want to clean them. It does not take long for me if I burn a few burns of moist wood, fly ash gets in them quickly. Also anything from the flue will fall back down on top of them. Take out the baffles, (read the installation manual) very easy but follow the procedure and take a look. They are slightly fragile to go slow. A simple brush off of the CATs will go a long way. When mine get dirty, I too snuffed at the fire when activated. Be careful not to let the soapstones fall in on you inside the firebox. I made two piece of wood to create an "X" across the back of the firebox holding each side stone up, which in turn holds the back ones in place. Also, go to the back of the stove and (per manual) take the heat shield and CAT cover off. It is VERY easy to do. You will see the two CATS, vacuum them off. I know you think you couldn't have clogged them with just a few months burning, but I bet you did. I have cleaned mine twice since October. It is well worth the tiny effort. You will begone in 30 minutes. Lastly, look under the stove and be sure the metal plate/tag that comes on the stove did not get pushed over the main intake. Mine was 25% blocked after the install. It was never checked until I looked at it. It is a good stove. I also had an older 70's unit and this is a completely different beast. I also was frustrated but now love it. Dry wood is essential. My draft is enormous. I run the stove at 10% open most the time (450-550F). Learn to build a top down start. It is far superior for this stove. If you have not done one, Hearthstone has a video on the web site. You will not have to open the stove door until the flue is completely hot.

Dave
 

Drylightning

New Member
Feb 26, 2021
14
Massachusetts
Do a test with aluminum tape, tape off the base of the liner with that stuff, if performance improves then you know what you have to work on to fix.

A couple weeks ago I did tape off the base of the liner with aluminum tape, and the stove is running much, much better. Hardly any smoke, and good fires. Thanks for this advice.

No, we need to figure out how to put a real cap on there. It's a very tight fit, so I'm not sure removing the T and lifting up is the best way to do this. This'll be tricky. The installers have offered to help, but they won't give us our money back and re-do it with insulation. Small-claims court? Oh, god no.

I appreciate all the assistance here!
Dan
 

Drylightning

New Member
Feb 26, 2021
14
Massachusetts
Drylightning, I am late to this post but would like to provide you with some thoughts.. I can assure you the GM 60 runs like a tank once you get this straightened out. I will comment on the stove only as you have received A+ info from the gentlemen on here. The stove will kick back some smoke into your room if you do not 1) open up the main inlet all the way, 2) engage the CAT bypass, handle down 3) crack the door for a few seconds before opening. Not sure about how your fan unit also may be effecting this. The flue also needs to be up to temp. I run mine between 450-550F flue temp. Get a digital flue probe if you do not have one. Do those three things once you have the flue straight and you will be fine. If you clogged the CATs you may want to clean them. It does not take long for me if I burn a few burns of moist wood, fly ash gets in them quickly. Also anything from the flue will fall back down on top of them. Take out the baffles, (read the installation manual) very easy but follow the procedure and take a look. They are slightly fragile to go slow. A simple brush off of the CATs will go a long way. When mine get dirty, I too snuffed at the fire when activated. Be careful not to let the soapstones fall in on you inside the firebox. I made two piece of wood to create an "X" across the back of the firebox holding each side stone up, which in turn holds the back ones in place. Also, go to the back of the stove and (per manual) take the heat shield and CAT cover off. It is VERY easy to do. You will see the two CATS, vacuum them off. I know you think you couldn't have clogged them with just a few months burning, but I bet you did. I have cleaned mine twice since October. It is well worth the tiny effort. You will begone in 30 minutes. Lastly, look under the stove and be sure the metal plate/tag that comes on the stove did not get pushed over the main intake. Mine was 25% blocked after the install. It was never checked until I looked at it. It is a good stove. I also had an older 70's unit and this is a completely different beast. I also was frustrated but now love it. Dry wood is essential. My draft is enormous. I run the stove at 10% open most the time (450-550F). Learn to build a top down start. It is far superior for this stove. If you have not done one, Hearthstone has a video on the web site. You will not have to open the stove door until the flue is completely hot.

Dave

My wife's been starting the fire using top-down starting method. It works great! Thanks.
 

Rob_Red

Feeling the Heat
Feb 2, 2021
289
Southern New England
As a Green Mountain 40 owner I echo cabinwarmer 100% these are great stoves. Take the small amount of effort to keep the CATs clear and it will run great. I do this about every month.
 

bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
25,557
central pa
A couple weeks ago I did tape off the base of the liner with aluminum tape, and the stove is running much, much better. Hardly any smoke, and good fires. Thanks for this advice.

No, we need to figure out how to put a real cap on there. It's a very tight fit, so I'm not sure removing the T and lifting up is the best way to do this. This'll be tricky. The installers have offered to help, but they won't give us our money back and re-do it with insulation. Small-claims court? Oh, god no.

I appreciate all the assistance here!
Dan
How did you pay for it?