Hearthstone Manchester issues

[begreen]

Yes, I do understand the damage it could do if left unattended. Therefore I always set a timer on Alexa or my phone to remind me to return in 10 minutes to check on it and close the door.

That's enough time to crack the base on a cold start. Using the ashpan door causes a forge-like condition to develop at the grate. The sudden heat up in the center while the outer edges of the base are cold can crack it due to the differing rates of expansion. With a top down start air at the base of the fire will be irrelevant for starting purposes.

 

[NYLuke]

Very interesting.. It never crossed my mind that 10 min could/would do that. Thanks for the explanation. Much appreciated! 👍

 

[begreen]

It's why the manual explicitly says:
3) Light the paper under the kindling. Leave the door slightly ajar momentarily until the kindling has started to burn and draft begins to pull (never open ash door to establish draft).

We've seen this happen on some Jotul stoves. Here is what it looks like:

 

[NYLuke]

Thanks be green, I certainly dont want to crack the stove base..
and yes I read the manual, however, I thought 30 years of experience taught me better. lol.. Glad you were around or I could have had some major issues down the road..


The top down fire start combined with the 45 vs the 90 has been much better,
I no longer need to open the ashpan door. I just crack the side door for a minute or two and I'm all set. Glass is staying cleaner as well.
I was at wrestling with my kid the other day and met another parent who bought the same stove from the same place. His experience with the stove and the dealer mirrored mine. He also can't seem to get enough heat out of it and the dealer's sub did the install on it. He did say he bought some kiln dried wood and was doing a little better with it, but was completely underwhelmed thus far..He is in his second year with it. After talking to him I feel as if I am doing ok. The help on this forum has gotten me to a place where I am comfortable with the stove. Just got to try and get some better wood for next year.. I may even build a solar kiln.. .


I did get out fishing.. Caught some beautiful lake trout.. A 6 and a 10lb 'er pics attached!!

 

[Bill S]

Thank you for the replies. Im definitely focused in on the flue as my problem..

Yesterday, I visited the store that sold me the stove and they were very quick to blame my chimney.
I was like REALLY.. I told them I had an 8" flue before they sold me the stove and they sold me an 8 to 6" reducer at my thimble.
Like why would you sell me a stove that doesn't fit my application, give me a thimble reducer knowing it might require thousands of dollars of chimney modification, right now I am more than a little pissed at them.

Ive never measured moisture content, but 1.5 + yrs split and tarped .. Im pretty sure I'm not having that issue. But just for fun I did order one online.. Should be here next week..

As for the stove.
When looking through the manual, The manual does say that an 8" square will work with the stove. I have an 8" round. I can't see that being too different. In the meantime I've been experimenting the past few days.. Damp 55 degree weather here today in the Adirondacks. I know its not the best for creating a draft but if I leave the ash pan not fully latched( its closed and caught, but not air tight) my start is very easy..

If I heat the flue and get it to temp(15-20 minutes) by leaving the door not fully latched.. I have no issue when I close latch fully.. With the air damper open I still have a great fire( actually too great, it might over fire if I leave it alone and forget about it) Once the flue temp hits 500 and cat is in the middle of the active range I can engage.. retard the air and i have a great fire with no creosote forming on the glass.

The combustor is now the question.. I am having trouble operating it without it going into the overfire range. It doesn't go too far but even with the air vent almost closed and a low flue temp/ slow burn rate. The cat temp is close to over fire or just barely in the over fire range. I would think with the cat temp being high, the stove would be giving off a lot of heat, but it is not. The fire in the fire box is not strong. (retarded by air control) and the stove is not super hot..

Dont get me wrong its not cool, but for the cat temp to be near or barely in overfire and the stove not putting out a ton of heat.. .. Doesnt make a lot of sense to me. But then again this is my first time dealing with a cat stove. Thoughts??

Additionally with these cat stoves, after a reload on a hot bed of coals.. How long do you need to run them with the air vent open before you reengage the cat.. My manual doesn't have a lot of info on this.

After a reload on a hot bed of coals last night, the cat temp never dropped out of the operating range ( or even close to dropping out) and I closed too soon (like 5 min) and the window covered with creosote before I noticed. It eventually burned itself clean, but it was a dirty fire for a while before I noticed.

Im looking into a chimney liner, but I cant see how I could install it( or have someone else install it) without having to do a bunch of masonry work on the stone facade on the outside of the chimney. Doesnt seem like I could get the extension from the thimble into the tee in the liner without punching a big hole in the stone and cinder block the stone is hung on.


Thanks in advance.
Luke

NY Luke,
As we edge nearer to fire season, I was wondering how the end of last heating season was for you and your Manchester. I'm not sure I mentioned this but my 1942 house was heavily insulated and air stopped. I have to crack a cellar window (the stove is in the cellar) - I haven't installed direct air to the stove (and we need a little fresh air in the house anyway) and she draws great. Hmmmm...