Heatmore Wood Burner 200css

[OhioBrian45]

I recently bought a house with a Heatmore OWB. The first couple of weeks were not problem kept the house at 70 degrees with temps outside of 25 to 40 temp of water at 160 to 180. Great Right.

Now the bad. Past couple of days the outside temps have been high of 15 to 17 with wind chills up to 20 below. Stated seeing a decrease in the house temp. Being a newbie to OWB's I tried everything took out the filter (thought maybe it was plugged up) did some remodeling in my basement so thought the drywall dust had an effect. Thought about installing booster fans in duct work to push the air faster. I was maintaining 65 degrees (not freezing but thermometer was set at 68 or 70 and blower never kicked off. Temp of water stayed anywhere from 160 to 180. I gave up yesterday morning. Turned off the wood burner thermostat and kicked on the gas. Gas thermostat was set at 68 and the house wormed up and maintained 68 all day. Ruling out that maybe the fan was not pushing enough. Also put the filter back in ruling out that. Read some post on here yesterday on what temps you guys run your OWB's so went home last night after work cleaned all ashes even puled of the pump and cleaned it turned her up to 175 and a hoped that would do the job. Thermostat was set at 68 before going to bed around ten temp was only 67 blower never stooped got up this morning was down to 65 again. Check the fire was still going temp on burner was around 175 to 180.

I am at a loss. I talked to a Heatmore guy that said the heat exchange my be plunged up (from my remodel. I have access to the bottom of the heat exchange were the worm air comes out, it looks clear and warm air is coming through. However I do not have access to the top of the heat exchange were the cold air comes through. Guess my question is has anyone had an issue like this and could it be the top of the heat exchange being plugged up?

Sorry this post was like a book. Just trying to get it all out there and see if anyone could help me figure this out. I understand 65 is not cold but when you do all the work to heat with wood I would like to see at least 70!!.

Thanks

 

[pulse]

I think he means plugged from the inside. If your owb is maintaing 170-180 but you are not maintaing heat in the house with the fan constantly running either the hx is too small, it may be clogged(I doubt it) or your pump is too small. Start by taking some temps of the water coming into the hx compared to temps coming out, while the blower is running. That will tell you what is going on.

 

[OhioBrian45]

I think he means plugged from the inside. If your owb is maintaing 170-180 but you are not maintaing heat in the house with the fan constantly running either the hx is too small, it may be clogged(I doubt it) or your pump is too small. Start by taking some temps of the water coming into the hx compared to temps coming out, while the blower is running. That will tell you what is going on.

Thanks for the info. My temp going in to the heat exchange and coming out are roughly the same. I don't have a temperature gauge to know exactly what it is though. Just by touch it feels the same. Can only hold my hand on it for around 5 to 7 seconds before that sensor in my head goes off saying stop touching that dumb A** lol. That is the reasoning that the Heatmore guy gave me that the exchange might be plugged up. Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

[pulse]

If that is the case I would agree. There should be a noticeable difference between the two. I can't help you on how to clean it, but I am sure there is a way. My question would be why it got this way. If water chemistry is maintained there shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Eric Johnson]

One cheap way to monitor the temps is to go to the grocery story and buy a few stainless steel meat thermometers. They're cheap and you can strap them onto your pipes or hx with insulation over the top and get a pretty decent readout.

I'm wondering about your underground piping. You can check on heat loss there by monitoring the temp at the boiler supply and the temp when it enters the house.

 

[OhioBrian45]

If that is the case I would agree. There should be a noticeable difference between the two. I can't help you on how to clean it, but I am sure there is a way. My question would be why it got this way. If water chemistry is maintained there shouldn't be an issue.

Not sure. I just bought the place around 4 weeks ago. The previous owner (had the unit installed) was pretty knowledgeable about the process and added chemicals to maintain. My only thought would be the paint and drywall dust from my remodel. I sprayed the ceilings with a sprayer. Did not think it was a big deal at the time. Might be now though. You think that could do it?

 

[OhioBrian45]

One cheap way to monitor the temps is to go to the grocery story and buy a few stainless steel meat thermometers. They're cheap and you can strap them onto your pipes or hx with insulation over the top and get a pretty decent readout.

I'm wondering about your underground piping. You can check on heat loss there by monitoring the temp at the boiler supply and the temp when it enters the house.

Thanks. I am going to stop and grab a couple on my way home from work. Prob grab 4 or so and try and monitor exactly were I am losing heat if any. Feels pretty even from where it enters the house and into the heat exchange. Could be wrong though.

 

[pulse]

Not sure. I just bought the place around 4 weeks ago. The previous owner (had the unit installed) was pretty knowledgeable about the process and added chemicals to maintain. My only thought would be the paint and drywall dust from my remodel. I sprayed the ceilings with a sprayer. Did not think it was a big deal at the time. Might be now though. You think that could do it?

I don't know....I am thinking plugged from the inside ie.scale, you are thinking plugged from the outside from paint and dust. I guess you have to pull it out and look at it. I can't believe you would have the fan running during the remodel as that would blow dust everywhere throughout the house. Even if it was running the filter should have plugged before it got to the hx.

 

[Clarkbug]

The fact that you *think* the water temps arent really changing through your heat exchanger is the clue. That and the fact that you still have high temps out at the boiler means that you just arent getting the heat transfer that you need.

As noted above, try to get temps in and out of the Hx, and in and out of the house. Knowing what you have there should help with figuring it out. It might be that your pump isnt pushing much water, or that there is a thin film of the sheetrock dust on your Hx causing the problem.

Getting the temps first will help narrow it down. (If you have an IR gun, that can help too)

 

[maple1]

I could see it being either plugged inside from minerals etc., or outside from dust. Either would do it.

 

[heaterman]

Start with the easy stuff. Since you mentioned remodeling, slide the coil out of the plenum and take a good look at it. I have seen them coated with a film of drywall dust that doesn't look like it would reduce output but it sure does. Obviously if it's covered with airborne debris your air flow will be impeded too but sometimes just a light film can slow down heat transfer even though it doesn't look like much.

If it's sludged up on the inside it will have to be "boiled out" with some kind of caustic cleaner or mild acid. Bear in mind that if this is the case, you have water chemistry issues and the inside of the boiler looks the same way. That's a bigger problem.

When we install a coil, we put shut off valves in the in/out lines, then a union, then a tee with a boiler drain in each. This allows a person to hook up a pump and run cleaner through the coil without removing it from the plenum. If worst comes to worst, it can also be easily replaced without draining the whole system.

 

[OhioBrian45]

Thanks for all the help. I am going to check temps tonight. I am assuming that if my temp at the hx is 160 -180 in and out I will need to pull and clean. If I see a dramatic change from the boiler to the house then line from the boiler to the house is the issue. If I see dramatic change from where it comes into the house to the hx the pump may need changed out. Sound about right?

Thanks

 

[OhioBrian45]

Start with the easy stuff. Since you mentioned remodeling, slide the coil out of the plenum and take a good look at it. I have seen them coated with a film of drywall dust that doesn't look like it would reduce output but it sure does. Obviously if it's covered with airborne debris your air flow will be impeded too but sometimes just a light film can slow down heat transfer even though it doesn't look like much.

If it's sludged up on the inside it will have to be "boiled out" with some kind of caustic cleaner or mild acid. Bear in mind that if this is the case, you have water chemistry issues and the inside of the boiler looks the same way. That's a bigger problem.

When we install a coil, we put shut off valves in the in/out lines, then a union, then a tee with a boiler drain in each. This allows a person to hook up a pump and run cleaner through the coil without removing it from the plenum. If worst comes to worst, it can also be easily replaced without draining the whole system.

Thanks! great information!!

 

[heaterman]

Generally speaking.............
If the issue is flow related (restricted tubes) you'll see supply/return temps far apart. Like 15-20+ degrees.
If it's air side related (restricted air flow/dirty fins) you'll see water temps remain very close to each other from supply to return.

 

[Hydronics]

Generally speaking.............
If the issue is flow related (restricted tubes) you'll see supply/return temps far apart. Like 15-20+ degrees.
If it's air side related (restricted air flow/dirty fins) you'll see water temps remain very close to each other from supply to return.

Makes logical sense: If the water flow is reduced, the air will carry more heat away from each water molecule- relatively speaking, more time to transfer from water to air.
If the air can't carry the heat away from the heat exchanger the water's inlet and outlet temps will change less.

 

[heaterman]

Makes logical sense: If the water flow is reduced, the air will carry more heat away from each water molecule- relatively speaking, more time to transfer from water to air.
If the air can't carry the heat away from the heat exchanger the water's inlet and outlet temps will change less.

You got it.

 

[OhioBrian45]

1/8 inch of dust and debreis on top of the hx. House is worming up as we speak. Thanks for all the help!!