*help* advice old homemade log splitter

[jack dempsey]

Cheers,

Just came into an old / homemade log splitter. It has a 1955 Briggs and Stratton 8HP engine (I believe it is 8hp). The model is 14B. The top end was seized up, I freed it up with some WD-40 and Marvel Mystery Oil. Today I got the engine running and was able to split some old wood. However when I placed some Yellow Locust wood on the splitter... The ram could not force the wood to split on the wedge. I tried smaller pieces of Locust, with the same result.

I have never owned a splitter and so am unsure what the problem could be?
low fluid (BTW it seems like there is automatic transmission fluid in the tank, it is red and clean)?

After splitting the older wood, I did notice some fluid dripping out of the front on the ram. Could this be from trying to split the locust?

The valve seems to be working OK, the ram goes forward and reverse, stops automatically when reversed.

Could it be I need a newer more powerful engine?

I do not want to invest a huge sum of money... as I am retired and on a fixed income.
Splitter worked fine on old / light what appears to be maple.

All help advice appreciated.

Thanks

Jack D

 

[Michael Golden]

I would change all the fluid: engine oil and hydraulic oil possibly hydraulic filter too if there is one. You may be able to take the ram to your local hydraulic repair shop and have them rebuild it for a small fee. You can rebuild this yourself if you have ever done such a thing, really it isn't to hard. If the engine runs good should be fine. As for the red fluid, I have no clue I would replace it with hydraulic oil. The locust may just be to tough for the splitter or the splitter may not have much splitting force, Idk.

 

[jack dempsey]

I would change all the fluid: engine oil and hydraulic oil possibly hydraulic filter too if there is one. You may be able to take the ram to your local hydraulic repair shop and have them rebuild it for a small fee. You can rebuild this yourself if you have ever done such a thing, really it isn't to hard. If the engine runs good should be fine. As for the red fluid, I have no clue I would replace it with hydraulic oil. The locust may just be to tough for the splitter or the splitter may not have much splitting force, Idk.

Cheers Michael
Thanks for the help. I did change the engine oil. I will change out the hydraulic oil too. I do not see a hydraulic filter. The engine runs pretty good (for a 1955 engine). I cleaned the carburetor.. the float and needle valve did seem to get "stuck" on occasion. A 'rap' on the carb with the handle of my screwdriver freed it up. From what I've read in the forums so far. The engine is not the problem, as long as it runs well. Pump or valve? How does one "test"?
Again, thanks
j

 

[KD0AXS]

I'm guessing the engine is fine. Did it bog down while splitting?

It's probably a matter of the pump and ram just not producing enough force to split the wood. If this thing is homemade, they probably just pieced it together with whatever they had access to. The pump and ram are probably not matched to give optimum performance as they would be with a professionally manufactured splitter.

As far as the fluid goes, if it's red it's probably ATF. ATF is commonly used as a hydraulic fluid. That's what my splitter uses.

 

[jack dempsey]

I'm guessing the engine is fine. Did it bog down while splitting?

It's probably a matter of the pump and ram just not producing enough force to split the wood. If this thing is homemade, they probably just pieced it together with whatever they had access to. The pump and ram are probably not matched to give optimum performance as they would be with a professionally manufactured splitter.

As far as the fluid goes, if it's red it's probably ATF. ATF is commonly used as a hydraulic fluid. That's what my splitter uses.

Cheers,
No engine ran fine. It is an old splitter. I believe the fellow I got it from said it hasn't been run in 13 years. I will have to see if I can read any information off the pump. I believe it is a "viking", but am not sure. Is there any other info I should be looking at?
Thanks again

 

[pastera]

What size is the cylinder?
Can you get a model number on the pump?
You said that the fluid is clean and red so that's probably not the issue.
A leak on the front seal doesn't effect the splitting force. You should get it fixed but it's not the problem.
Did the ram just stop moving on the locust or did it stall the engine?

 

[triptester]

When the engine isn't stalling while the ram doesn't move indicates that the system isn't building pressure. The likely cause would be damaged cylinder piston seals. Other causes would a damaged or low setting of the relief in the control valve or slipping of the coupling between the engine and pump.

 

[jack dempsey]

When the engine isn't stalling while the ram doesn't move indicates that the system isn't building pressure. The likely cause would be damaged cylinder piston seals. Other causes would a damaged or low setting of the relief in the control valve or slipping of the coupling between the engine and pump.

Cheers,
I will try and get more information off the pump today. The engine is not stalling, running fine. Like I said older "light" rounds of wood, split without any problem at all. When I attempt to split the Locust (rounds or previously split piece) the ram just stops, engine is still running fine, doesn't miss a beat. What is meant by cylinder size? length / diameter? I will get this info today too.

 

[triptester]

A cylinders size is determined by it's bore and stroke. A quick estimate of bore size can be had by measuring the outside of the cylinder then subtract 1/2" to give the bore size. Stroke is how far the rod travels when fully extended.

Typical cylinders used on log splitters will have bore sizes from3 1/2"-5".

 

[jack dempsey]

Cheers

Added 1 gallon of ATF to tank, fluid level is above the outlet by a good deal.
Fired up the log splitter, split one round of old light weight maple. Put a round of Locust, same thing not enough power to split, engine did not bog one bit.

Additional info:
pump VIKING serial # 2119848 model GP-0525-14-G0 tough to read, but cleaned plate and used magnifier... I think this is correct
Looked up model: numbers mean ...
GP- external gear pump principle
05 - gear O.D.
25 - first pump capacity (smaller)
14- second pump capacity (larger)
G - design series (heavy duty)
0 - shaft rotation clockwise (viewed from shaft end)

valve - CROSS no other info other than "Made in the USA"

Cylinder: 3 inch outside diameter, length of shaft 33 inches to the splitting wedge.
Cylinder only 1 drop of fluid came out at the shaft end while attempting to split Locust.

Any additional help advice
GREATLY APPRECIATED

 

[Bret Hart]

The fluid may be bypassing at the relief valve. Got any pics?

 

[KD0AXS]

Do you have any pictures of the splitter you could post?

3 inch OD isn't really a very big cylinder. It might just not be able to produce the force needed to split the harder wood. I think that might actually even be smaller than what's on my 12 ton splitter, I've never actually measured it.

My 12 ton splitter really has trouble with larger hardwood rounds, especially oak. I've actually had rounds get stuck on the wedge to the point I had to get out my saw and do some noodling to get them free.

 

[jack dempsey]

Here are photos from when I first got it. I have cleaned it up and got the rust off, and added a fuel tank

 

[gzecc]

Belongs in a log splitter museum. Smallest cylinder I've seen on a splitter. Don't think I would put any money into it unless the beam was good and I was going to rebuild the whole thing. New motor, valve, cylinder, pump etc..... By that time you could buy a better used one.

 

[TreePointer]

Smallest cylinder I've seen on a splitter.

+1

 

[KD0AXS]

Yeah, that cylinder looks like it probably came off an old tractor with a loader bucket or something like that. Definitely not made for splitting logs.

 

[jack dempsey]

Cheers,
Thanks for all the help advice. I will just use it to split smaller seasoned rounds until I can find something else.

 

[Frank625]

I have a home made splitter with a Honda 5.5 HP motor that looks like it has the same size piston and it goes through everything I throw at it. I have never gotten a piece of wood on it that it wouldn't split. make sure your hydraulics are working correctly. I bet it will be fine if your pump and piston are working correctly. I usually split stuff 24" in diameter and less.

 

[pastera]

3" OD cylinder should be about 5 ton at 2000 psi
Does the motor load up when the ram stops and then let up a fraction of a second later?
The bypass in the control may be bypassing or the high pressure side of the pump may be bleeding off through the low pressure bypass.

Looked up the spec sheet on the pump - I would say that the one way valve on the low pressure bypass is stuck open. When this happens the pump simply stops pumping at a few hundred PSI and you see your symptoms.

 

[triptester]

You can try to increase pressure by adjusting the pressure relief it is located next to the handle under the acorn nut.To adjust the relief without a pressure gauge you will need to extend the cylinder all the way out then turn the adjusting screw in 1/8 turn ( clockwise) then put the lever in the extend position, listen for strain on the engine. Repeat the adjustment until the engine strains without killing. This will be the max. pressure. If this fails to increase pressure piston seals in the cylinder may be worn.

 

[Jdesmaris]

Cheers,

Just came into an old / homemade log splitter. It has a 1955 Briggs and Stratton 8HP engine (I believe it is 8hp). The model is 14B.

Jack D

14B Briggs is around 5 1/2 horse max when running full throttle at 3600 RPM. Seeing how your two-stage pump is direct coupled to the engine - that has your pump running at twice the company's rated speed of 1750 RPM, so the GPMs are doubled. When it shifts into it's low-flow/high--pressure stage - it is pumping 2 GPM. 2 GPM @ 2500 PSI takes about 4 1/2 horsepower. So if your 5 1/2 horse engine is running near as it should -engine power is not a problem. A 3" cylinder is tiny for a log splitter. I'd check your max pressure setting first. Needs to be at the max which is 2500 PSI. At that pressure - you'll get 7 tons of splitting force. That"s enough pressure for many types of wood but some tough stuff will just get stuck and not split. Note that much depends on the size of the wedge also. I have a big three-point-hitch splitter mounted on a 35 horse farm tractor with a 4.5" cylinder and 2000 PSI and I still get wood stuck on the wedge now and then. And that's with 32 tons of force. Note that if your pressure is set as high as it ought to be, and your engine is running good, it ought to be working pretty hard and nearly stalling when putting it to the limit with a stuck piece of wood. If the engine sounds like it's not working hard, the pressure is likely too low.

 

[jack dempsey]

Cheers
Much thanks to everyone who responded to my call for assistance. I haven't had a chance to get back to work on the splitter, but will try suggestions / advice given here! GREAT bunch of fellows, my hat is tipped to you all.