Help deciding on insert- Osburn 2000 or 2400?

[Renjilj]

Great site- first timer here and needing some advice!

Need some help with decision and questions on an insert. Looking to burn as much as possible so desire a 7-9 hr burn time..? House is located in western Ct. House is Approx 1920 sq' with an exterior wall masonry chimney with 13x13 tile liner. FP Dims are 23h x 43w x 20d. House is insulated (r13 wall and r38 attic) and has thermo Anderson windows. Ceilings are 7'7". Last year burned about 750gal oil (inclu h/w).

Liked the osburn and have read only great reviews. Either model will fit in FP, but 2400 would need the heat shield due to mantle clearance. Planning to install block off plate at damper.

Floor plan is pretty open in main living section, but typical hallway and doors on bedroom section. It's split in two essentially (addition about 10 years ago). The two sections are same level, but opposed 90 degrees if you will. Willing to run fan to move air if you think it will do the trick.. Don't need bedrooms at 75 degrees, but 65 would be nice.

Soo...

2000- Output good. Burn time less. Cost is less! 2.3 cu'
2400- Like the long burn times and output. 3.2 cu'. Cost is more but ok. Fear is if I can't move heat around, it will be in a 1000' area then and will it be too much? Can it be run low without issues?

Also, there are many liners to chose from... .006, .013 thick, smooth or convoluted, Ti, Tl, 304, etc etc. I'm good with spending on a decent liner, but what is good, and what is unnecessary/waste? Do you recommend insulating for this application?

Ugh... So many questions, so many decisions!

I have attached a floor plan. Not to scale or pretty but will give you the idea.

 

[Swedishchef]

Welcome to the forums

From what I see on the design, you may have a hard time getting heat down to the bedrooms. Inserts/wood stoves are great space heaters but they are not furnaces. That being said, I like my bedrooms a bit cooler than the rest of my house. Your kitchen, DR and LR will be heated nicely. You should be able to get the BRs to 65. And yes, a fan will help air movement.

The heating ability also depends on your winter temperatures and the type of wood. If you cork it tight with maple (hardwood) vs spruce/fir (softwood). Hardwood burns longer than softwood.

The 2400 is a heating beast. You can always make a smaller fire in it rather than a raging inferno.

Get an insulated liner. No doubt about it. Smooth would be a preferred option IMHO but I don't have a liner. I am certain others will chime in and give better advice than me!

Welcome once again!

Andrew

PS, I hope you already have wood that is cut/split/stacked? Or know someone that does? Wood heating has changed dramatically over the past 25 years. Stoves now need seasoned wood that has a moisture content around 22-24% or lower. Otherwise your fires will hiss/sizzle and stuff your liner with creosote.

 

[Bagelboy]

Go bigger. The 2400 is a beast and I'm glad I have it. The cost between the two is nominal and will mean nothing in a year or two. When mine throws too much heat, I start to let it burn down and load it less often. When you load it, make sure it hits temps above 500 and it will serve you well. You don't want to get a stove and find out it's not throwing enough heat!

 

[Renjilj]

That was fast! Thanks guys for you thoughts. I have spent more time now milling this over. I can see how this is addictive, and I haven't even bought anything yet!

Here is my latest to vet by the forum...

If I get the smaller stove, will I have to burn hotter and therefore get shorter burn times (but stove will be happier)? What is reasonable for burn time on the 2000 - can you get a realistic 6-8 out of it (actual heat)? It does get cold here in CT. Not Minnesota cold, but 5-10 on the low side and 20-30 on the average. If I end up going smaller, and firebox size/btu being equal at that point, does it make sense to move to something like the Century cw2900 for economics? Or is there other benefits still to the OZ?

Still can't let go of the 2400, and it's capacity - and you guys have some very valid points. Just very worried about it being too hot and running it low. If I have to keep smaller, shorter fires then won't I have to feed more often defeating the benefit of the larger size? Some of the info out there says the 1000-1500 sq' range and this thing could cook you. Granted some coming from vendors and I trust what comes from here a LOT more. I will have access to about 3-4 cord a year of mixed hardwood, mostly maple and oak.

Sorry, probably overthinking this too much but it's a lot of $$ on my budget so want to get it right!

Keep the advice coming. . .

 

[realstihl]

Doesn't Osburn make something in between those two stoves. Cool fires in big stoves sometimes doesn't have good results.

 

[Renjilj]

They do in free standing, but in inserts I am only finding the 2000, 2200 (essentially same with the bay window look I think) and the 2400.

 

[Swedishchef]

Howdy!

OAK takes about 3 years to season, maple 2. Just FYI.

I have an Osburn 2300. If I pack it to the gills, it's a beast. I can get 8 hours of heat out of it. After that the temps start dropping. Reload 8-10 hours.... I presume the 2400 would be about the same. That being said, 5-6 decent splits will make a nice fire and not cook you out.

Did you look at Blaze King Princess Insert? You can control the heat easier and they are great heaters (they have catalysts..aka CAT).

I am not familiar with your weather. A 2400 may cook you out if you have 20-30 degree weather. I have 0 to -10 on average, it's a big difference.

A

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Go bigger, if you get something too small you will never be happy, get something too big, you can adjust.....

 

[Grisu]

Last year burned about 750gal oil (inclu h/w)

Let's assume 600 gl were for heat and your oil furnace/boiler is 80% efficient, you would have used 67 million BTU. From one cord of mixed hardwood you get about 16 mBTU so you need to burn a bit more than 4 cords to replace your oilheat usage. Burning 4 cords in the 2000 is not impossible but pushing it and on the coldest days it may not be enough. On the other hand, if you do not mind to supplement a little bit with your furnace the 2000 should work out ok. The question is also if the last winter's house temps were sufficient or you would like to increase them knowing the fuel is much cheaper. Also, do not forget that the stove room will most likely need to be warmer to get the rest of the house up to temp. With that you may actually need more like 5 cords which would make the 2400 the better choice. Lastly, the last winter was very cold. Could be that your "normal" heating load is smaller.

In summary: If your goal is 100% woodheat you will need the 2400. If you won't mind using some oil, the 2000 would probably be enough or a great supplement most of the time.

 

[Renjilj]

Great info, I really appreciate the advice. I do need to get moving on wood for year 2 and 3 it sounds like!

Grisu last year here was unusually colder than normal. Typically we nuke about 650 gals oil combined. I like the idea of the extra horsepower, but if it's only that cold every 10 years then will I be getting sunburned the other 9? Ideally want to heat as much as I can with the stove, taking what I can get given layout. Sounds like that's easier to do with the larger box and longer burn times (and my schedule and lack of family member participation!). If I could

I would like at least 60-70% offset so I can get a 3 year payback.. The idea of warmer is also appealing. I'm sure no one in the house will complain when it's 75 vs 67!

This change anything?

 

[Renjilj]

Howdy!

OAK takes about 3 years to season, maple 2. Just FYI.

I have an Osburn 2300. If I pack it to the gills, it's a beast. I can get 8 hours of heat out of it. After that the temps start dropping. Reload 8-10 hours.... I presume the 2400 would be about the same. That being said, 5-6 decent splits will make a nice fire and not cook you out.

Did you look at Blaze King Princess Insert? You can control the heat easier and they are great heaters (they have catalysts..aka CAT).

I am not familiar with your weather. A 2400 may cook you out if you have 20-30 degree weather. I have 0 to -10 on average, it's a big difference.

SWedishchef, 8-10 hrs is exactly what I want, but 20-30f avg is more like what we get in western CT. It does dip for spells to 5-15, but not for days or weeks. So, seems like to get long burn you get major btu. Many have had great suggestions on how to run the 2400 lower to moderate output and keeps it in the game! I think the BKP would prob be perfect, but stove alone is outside budget... Bummer

 

[Grisu]

Great info, I really appreciate the advice. I do need to get moving on wood for year 2 and 3 it sounds like!

Grisu last year here was unusually colder than normal. Typically we nuke about 650 gals oil combined. I like the idea of the extra horsepower, but if it's only that cold every 10 years then will I be getting sunburned the other 9? Ideally want to heat as much as I can with the stove, taking what I can get given layout. Sounds like that's easier to do with the larger box and longer burn times (and my schedule and lack of family member participation!). If I could

I would like at least 60-70% offset so I can get a 3 year payback.. The idea of warmer is also appealing. I'm sure no one in the house will complain when it's 75 vs 67!

This change anything?

I don't think it will change much from my summary. If you want the spare capacity to go for full woodheat you will need the 2400. If some supplemental oilheat is ok you will probably do fine with the 2000. Also, if you want really long burn times go for the larger one. It is not that the additional wood in the 2400 will only lead to more heat than the 2000, you will also see an increase in the burn time.

 

[Renjilj]

Thanks all for the "warm" welcome and all the advice.

Swedishchef - 8-10 hrs burn time is what I am looking for, but 20-30f avg is more like what we get in western Ct (last year not counting). Seems to get the burn time, you get major btu. Many have given great advice on how to moderate operation/output and has kept it in the running (and Sean at stove depot is great- another hearth.com find!).

What size are you heating for reference? Do you use blower, what setting? I know free standing is more efficient

 

[Swedishchef]

You're right when it comes to stoves. BKPrincess would allow for a more moderate heat for long time. Non cat stoves burn hotter.

My basement is 1300 sq feet. Say it's 55 in the basement, I light the stove. 2 hours later it's about 80 in the room where my stove is, 70 in the rest of the basement. After 3-4 hours the heat will start to rise my staircase and begin heating upstairs. upstairs I use electricity though.

A larger box normally does mean longer burn times. You'll appreciate loading every 8 hours instead of every 5.

Yeah, get started on years 2-3 for your wood source. Personally I am always 2-3 winters ahead. For example, the wood I am burning this winter has been cut/split/stacked for over 2 years already.

Andrew

 

[Bagelboy]

Get the 2400!

 

[Sircycle]

Renjilj, I have an Osburn 2000 and 2400. They both work great. I bought the 2000 with hopes of replacing my zero clearance insert with this. Come to find out I cannot do this. I am trying to sell the 2000 now as I have no need for it. I bought it new last July and it has been used only 3 months it is in great shape. If you are interested I am selling this insert. You can save a few bucks and get the same as new. Let me know, I am in North Granby Ct.

 

[Renjilj]

Get the 2400!

BB - Whats your sq' and layout like? Catskills are a little cooler typically, but similar enough on the climate side to compare. How long are your burns and how much wood do you use?

 

[Bagelboy]

My layout is a Tudor. Around 1200 sf on the first floor, and 900 on the second floor. I have 5 rooms on the first floor, and 5 up stairs. When you walkin, there is a foyer with a staircase. The living room with the insert is the next room over. The heat goes up the stairs and heats the bedrooms. On the other side of the house I have another stove. I run the 2400 insert and it heats the whole house when temps are down to about 20 degrees. Once it gets below 20, I get the other stove going. This keeps one end of the house from being 75 and the other 68. I go through about 5 or 6 cords of wood a year, but my furnace only comes on when I take a vacation, otherwise, we heat our entire home with wood, and have for nearly 30 years! The key for me heating with wood is to watch outside temps and burn based on what they will do.

 

[Renjilj]

Bagelboy-Thanks for info. You all have been a great help!!

Sounds like you have some walls to deal with then, do you have to do anything to move air around at all (fans etc)? When's it like 40, does the room/house get hot? I think you saw my layout, still think 2400?

What liner do you have, is it insulated? How long do you get for burn times?

 

[Bagelboy]

It will probably be hard to move some of that heat into your bedrooms, might want to find some threads on fan placement. It's a shame that the insert is not going in the living room, it seems more central? I don't have an insulated liner, but I've had no problems. Well seasoned wood has helped my chimney stay pretty clean, but if I had more knowledge before they installed my stove, I would have asked for an insulated chimney to be safe. With the 2400, you will have nice coals left when you wake up in the morning to refire, no problem.

 

[Renjilj]

Thanks bagelboy,

Yeah, living room would be ideal and I could go freestanding then. There is space, but a much more involved install with ceiling and roof penetration, class A, hearth pad, wall clearance, etc.. It is actually my preferred option, but more money and less DIY. Had a budget of $2500 for this (which I will be over with either Oz stove..).
Wifey likes FS too because it would give her an excuse to redecorate the living room! (Hence a lot more increased cost...). I am leaning toward the 2400 with a smooth wall, insulated liner. I like the idea of the long runs, reality is I will never get the wife or kids to load so need to get them as long as possible! Just hope I can move some heat around or it might be a bit overkill. When you load up full, do you get crazy heat, or can you close it down pretty good so heat is manageable? I'm ok with 75 in main and 65 in beds, but 85 and 55 isn't a good play.

 

[Renjilj]

OK, running into another hicup. Was ready to pull trigger on the 2400, but... clearance issues on mantle (I knew this already). The 2000 comes with an option for a heat shield for mantle/surround clearance issues, but dont see one for the 2400 and found a brochure that says "N/A"? Have tried contacting Osburn, but nothing back yet.. If no shield avail, I may be limited to the 2000 and 4-6 hr burns.. Any experience with this? can one be made that would be approved?

My wife will have me served if I even suggest changing the mantle !

 

[prezes13]

Renjilj go with the biggest fire box you can fit. When I bought my stove I bought it based on its looks not knowing a thing about stoves. If I could do it all over again I would go with BK princess. It has enough power to heat the house when it's really cold, but because of the cat it can go for long time without cooking you out of the house when it's warmer. Check dean's in Plantsville he is not the cheapest but has a great showroom with many many stoves to chose from.

 

[gregbesia]

Prezes where are you in CT ? I'm in Southington. Dean is nice , really big selection.

 

[Renjilj]

Renjilj go with the biggest fire box you can fit. When I bought my stove I bought it based on its looks not knowing a thing about stoves. If I could do it all over again I would go with BK princess. It has enough power to heat the house when it's really cold, but because of the cat it can go for long time without cooking you out of the house when it's warmer. Check dean's in Plantsville he is not the cheapest but has a great showroom with many many stoves to chose from.

Prezes - Lots of good folks with the same advice - The 2400 was it with a nice 3.2' box and was ready to go there but the clearance issue reared its head.. Without a shield option I am missing by a lot on mantle and surround (top clearances). The 2000 makes it with the shield, but... smaller

I have heard Deans a few times now and planning a trip there this weekend. Stuff in my town is crazy expensive. Want to buy local if I can