Help needed replacing stove pipe

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oakback

New Member
Jul 13, 2020
4
Tallahassee, FL
Hello, new here, in need of some assistance. My chimney cap was removed by a hurricane, and before i new what the issue was, my stove pipe had rusted pretty bad.

I'm replacing it now, with the same 6" black snap-together pipe. It's a straight shot; the opening on the stove is on top, and it goes straight out of the roof, no bends.

I'm not sure how to get the last segment to fit. I've got about an inch of vertical play to use, but the crimped portion is about 1.75".

What's the best/correct way to get this together without a telescoping segment?
 
Hello, new here, in need of some assistance. My chimney cap was removed by a hurricane, and before i new what the issue was, my stove pipe had rusted pretty bad.

I'm replacing it now, with the same 6" black snap-together pipe. It's a straight shot; the opening on the stove is on top, and it goes straight out of the roof, no bends.

I'm not sure how to get the last segment to fit. I've got about an inch of vertical play to use, but the crimped portion is about 1.75".

What's the best/correct way to get this together without a telescoping segment?
Does the black pipe go through the ceiling and roof?
 
There's a box at the ceiling, within it was the male portion of another pipe that I did not replace. I don't know if it's a different kind of metal, but it looked to be in much better shape than then interior black pipe.

There is 10' of pipe in the room, then the juncture at the ceiling. There is no attic space, it goes straight to the exterior chimney, which is another 6 or 7 feet tall.
 
There's a box at the ceiling, within it was the male portion of another pipe that I did not replace. I don't know if it's a different kind of metal, but it looked to be in much better shape than then interior black pipe.

There is 10' of pipe in the room, then the juncture at the ceiling. There is no attic space, it goes straight to the exterior chimney, which is another 6 or 7 feet tall.
Ok in that case you can cut the pipe to length slide the stove forward untill you can get the pipe angled in then slide the stove back. Some strips of sheet metal under the stove legs makes that easy. Or just get a telescoping section.

With some chimneys you could also just lift the whole chimney up and have someone slip the pipe in under it then drop the chimney in.

Btw all of the crimped ends should be pointing down towards the stove
 
Ok in that case you can cut the pipe to length slide the stove forward untill you can get the pipe angled in then slide the stove back. Some strips of sheet metal under the stove legs makes that easy. Or just get a telescoping section.

With some chimneys you could also just lift the whole chimney up and have someone slip the pipe in under it then drop the chimney in.

Btw all of the crimped ends should be pointing down towards the stove
Thanks, it never occurred to me to move the stove. It's sitting on a layer of loose bricks (which is on the slate tile floor), it shouldn't be too difficult. I'll try lifting the chimney first.

All the crimped ends are facing down. Whoever did this first (almost 40 years ago) forced the female end of the top black pipe INTO the crimped end at the ceiling. That explained the drip lines I had coming down the pipe. I added some crimps (bent it inward with a screwdriver) back into the pipe, and made it fit into the new pipe, like it should be.

Next I'll need a new cap. I found my original cap in the nearby woods, but it seems strangely oversized. I think I'm missing some sort of adapter piece. I'll just buy a new cap, I want to limit my time working on it. Working on the chimney is precarious, it's very tall above the roof, and the roof is very steep and slippery metal.