remote Flue Pipe temperature

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morewoodplease

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 5, 2025
13
Putnam county NY
Does anyone have thoughts on remote flue pipe temperature measurement? Is it worth buying and installing equipment for this?

I'm thinking something like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1114698900...258f8d&gclid=f8cd5fadd12f169b529836b9a4258f8d

I'm currently restoring my Quadrafire 4100i and will be installing a straight run of DuraVent DVL double wall straight to the roof. I cut a large portion of my steel firebox (or should I say, am cutting, it's about half done) in order to do my flue as a straight install. There will be minimum 18' of flue pipe between the stove exit and the top of the masonry chimney. The chimney is a large mason block style chimney with 8x12 clay tile liners. The chimney is mostly interior, 2' above the roof line.

I wonder, where would you route the cabling for hardware like this? Directly down the flue in the space between the duravent double wall and the insert? _g:ZZZ

This chimney gets a TON of draft, so I want to arm myself to safely operate this stove after all the effort I have put into bringing it back to life.
[Hearth.com] remote Flue Pipe temperature
 
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Sure, they're worth it. The prices appear to be lower on Auber's website. They have lots of different options as well. Basically you just drill whatever size hole the probe is through both walls of the DVL about 18 inches up from the stovetop. That is the highest temp reading usually. I'm using a magnet on a single wall, but I located the hottest spot with an IR thermometer.

You might want to consider adding a damper. They make a DVL damper that works right with the DVL pipe. Too strong of a draft can cause issues with burning too hot and using too much wood. I've been using a damper for 30 years and will install one in any new pipe in the future.
 
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Thanks for the input. Will buy direct from Auber. I'm on an eBay kick lately! Dangerous, I know.

Sure, they're worth it. The prices appear to be lower on Auber's website. They have lots of different options as well. Basically you just drill whatever size hole the probe is through both walls of the DVL about 18 inches up from the stovetop. That is the highest temp reading usually. I'm using a magnet on a single wall, but I located the hottest spot with an IR thermometer.

You might want to consider adding a damper. They make a DVL damper that works right with the DVL pipe. Too strong of a draft can cause issues with burning too hot and using too much wood. I've been using a damper for 30 years and will install one in any new pipe in the future.

Regarding a damper, this seems like a good suggestion but given that my quadrafire is a flush mount insert, it might require some custom work to be able to control a damper from behind the cast iron/sheet metal surround. I will see what I can figure out.
 
Thanks for the input. Will buy direct from Auber. I'm on an eBay kick lately! Dangerous, I know.



Regarding a damper, this seems like a good suggestion but given that my quadrafire is a flush mount insert, it might require some custom work to be able to control a damper from behind the cast iron/sheet metal surround. I will see what I can figure out.
sorry, I must've missed the flush mounted insert part. My only experience is with woodstoves vented straight up.

I'm not sure a damper is even an issue for an insert
 
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I have this setup. The remote is in my office. It allows me to type here at Hearth.com while having a direct reminder of how the stove is doing. It's so easy to get distracted while the fire is building up momentum. I consider it an essential part of my wood burning experience.

[Hearth.com] remote Flue Pipe temperature

No fire today, it's 51º outside.
 
Does anyone have thoughts on remote flue pipe temperature measurement? Is it worth buying and installing equipment for this?

I'm thinking something like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1114698900...258f8d&gclid=f8cd5fadd12f169b529836b9a4258f8d

I'm currently restoring my Quadrafire 4100i and will be installing a straight run of DuraVent DVL double wall straight to the roof. I cut a large portion of my steel firebox (or should I say, am cutting, it's about half done) in order to do my flue as a straight install. There will be minimum 18' of flue pipe between the stove exit and the top of the masonry chimney. The chimney is a large mason block style chimney with 8x12 clay tile liners. The chimney is mostly interior, 2' above the roof line.

I wonder, where would you route the cabling for hardware like this? Directly down the flue in the space between the duravent double wall and the insert? _g:ZZZ

This chimney gets a TON of draft, so I want to arm myself to safely operate this stove after all the effort I have put into bringing it back to life.
View attachment 342060
Dvl is not a chimney liner it is a connector pipe. You need to use an actual insulated chimney liner
 
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Dvl is not a chimney liner it is a connector pipe. You need to use an actual insulated chimney liner
!!!, indeed. Good catch. I should have read the whole post.
 
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It looks like SuperVent (an actual double wall insulated system) is available at Lowe's for pickup. I appreciate you highlighting my error, bholler.

Now I am feeling a little self conscious about my mistake. Oh well, live and learn.
That is a chimney system not a liner. You want to look for chimney liners. Flexible is the most common you can get them pre insulated or wrap with insulation yourself. There is also duraliner which is a rigid pre insulated liner system.
 
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Now I am feeling a little self conscious about my mistake. Oh well, live and learn.
Better to catch it now then later. Don't worry about it. It's all good. @bholler has given you some good recommendations.
 
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That is a chimney system not a liner. You want to look for chimney liners. Flexible is the most common you can get them pre insulated or wrap with insulation yourself. There is also duraliner which is a rigid pre insulated liner system.
I was actually intentionally avoiding a flexible liner to help reduce creosote build-up. Do you mind explaining the difference between the Duraliner and the SuperVent product? It's not apparent to me.
 
I was actually intentionally avoiding a flexible liner to help reduce creosote build-up. Do you mind explaining the difference between the Duraliner and the SuperVent product? It's not apparent to me.
Get a midweight or heavy wall liner and you dont have to worry about it at all. They are smooth wall. Duraliner is meant to go in a chimney. Super vent is a chimney. You could also just get single wall rigid liner and wrap it yourself
 
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Depending on how much wiggle room you have in the chimney there are multiple options. An insulated medium or heavyweight flex liner is fine but if you want, you can install a rigid liner with an insulation wrap as long as there is room. If it's close, Duraliner is a good option.
 
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No concerns about cutting the metal box of the old fireplace? Are all prefab fireplaces suitable for wood inserts?