HELP!! What can temp of woodburning insert surface get - do I remove High Temp RTV sealant?

[ronz]

HELP!! During installation of my Clydesdale wood insert, I noticed the sheet metal forming the air flow chamber on bottom was loose with half the screws stripped (poor workmanship). I removed the screws, re tapped the holes and used Permatex ultra copper high temperature RTV to seal the steel sheet to the cast edges on which the sheet mounts. This stuff is listed as being resistant to temperatures up to 700 deg F. Since I had some RTV left over, I sealed the sheet metal to cast iron gaps that existed around the stove. Doing this reduced the drum effect of the various sheets forming the space for air to circulate and I am sure it will be quieter with the fan running, but....

I just tested some of the cured RTV and it SUPPORTS A FLAME if the metal it is sitting on becomes cherry red (tested using a torch to heat a sheet of steel the test RTV sample was sitting on).

Will the outer surface of a stove ever get to a cherry red temperature? I have never had or used an insert before and don't want to burn down the house with pieces of flaming RTV blowing out of a really hot stove.

My wife wants me to install ASAP. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[webbie]

I seriously doubt that is possible. When you say the outer surface, I assume you are speaking about the double wall part of the insert. Most folks have a tough time boiling water on these outside surfaces, so they probably run at 300-400.

I have never heard of such a thing happening...as flying and burning silicone.

Of course, the standard disclaimer applies. I am not there looking at it. But if I was, and it is what you describe, I would first of all stop worrying at all. Then I would have my typical break in fires to cure the silicone as well as the paint and the stove itself. Then, to satisfy myself, I would place a couple magnetic thermometers on the surfaces of the stove - or use a laser one (quite cheap these days) to assure myself that these surfaces are running at well below that temp.

If, in the worst case, you find that the stove hits 700 and above at those spots, then simply use a putty knife or screwdriver to dig most of it out, and then use black furnace cement from a caulk tube to put a bead on top of what is left and the gap.

 

[JimWalshin845]

Why didn't you call your dealer and have him fix it? Usually, by you doing the work, you may have voided the warranty.

Manufacturers should get this feedback so they can correct the errors. I think so few want to complain because they are in such a rush to get it installed.

Good luck and welcome to the forums!

 

[webbie]

Jim, I have met a lot of homeowners who don't want to have the same "poor workmanship" on the repairs, so this may be a case of that. Sometime it is aggravating to get things done "your" way, so some of us simply give up and do the repairs/upgrades ourselves. I have heard that from numerous members here!

 

[ClydesdaleBurner]

Ronz, I have the Clydesdale and the surface temp on the cook top gets up to 400... usually burns between 300-400. The highest I've ever had it was 405, but I've only been burning it for a few weeks. I'd like to try and get it a little higher, but I guarantee you're not going to be getting it to 700 otherwise you're in trouble!

 

[JimWalshin845]

Jim, I have met a lot of homeowners who don't want to have the same "poor workmanship" on the repairs, so this may be a case of that. Sometime it is aggravating to get things done "your" way, so some of us simply give up and do the repairs/upgrades ourselves. I have heard that from numerous members here!

I agree in most respects but I still think there should be follow up to the factory. If the factory is not aware of defects then they are not going to change their QC to remedy it.

But, here is another scenario, what 'if' Ronz's insert is manufactured actually to have those screws 'stripped' and the sheet metal not sealed? Possibly the manufacturing process was done that way for expansion/contraction purposes?

Sorry if I am going on a rant here, but sometimes I just can't understand why people can't pick up the phone and call the dealer to find out what the story is? Afterall, they just handed the dealer $1,500-$5,000 for the appliance. :red:

I have also run into bad repair work, recently had a tech do work on our water conditioner system for yearly PM. He replaced a $3.00 part and said the system was shot... said the Intermatic Timer was shot ($48 part)... which it wasn't. He told us it would be about $500.00 for a 'retrofit' unit. I did some research on the net and got some great advice, called the company back and they said they would send another tech. The next tech came out, he replaced 3 "O" rings and a plastic push rod and it now runs perfectly.

Keep up the good work,
Jim