Hi new Here, and have a couple of questions

[Rainstorm1962]

Hi I'm fairly new to using a wood stove, and I have a couple of questions.

This year I started using the wood stove about 6 weeks ago and we only fire it up in the evenings for about 6 hours during the weekdays and about 10 hrs a day on the weekends. The first couple of weeks the burning was going well with the "afterburners" lighting up throughout the burn, and then one day it seemed the stove was getting too hot for my liking 600F (I have a thermostat in my double-walled pipe, about 16 inches above the stove). So I closed the damper and it continued on for a while (it freaked me out, as to me I lost control as the damper was fully closed and the pipe should have started cooling, and didn't, the after-burners just kept going). I searched here and found some replies that 400F should be a good flu temp. So I tried to keep the stove flue around 350-450, and as a result the "afterburners" would only light up once in a while and not very strong). The stove glass doesn't clean itself and I noticed a shiny-black coating forming on the inside of the stove on the left and right side of the glass door.

Also when I went through one part of my seasoned wood outside I noticed the wood behind that row had turned dark and a white hairy (mold?) covered most of it. That was the wood I was counting on for this year as I only have unseasoned wood left. I took a few of that wood and split it, the inside looks good and the moisture content is 20% or less. The only "wet" area is under the bark, and that normally comes off so it evaporates off the wood before I burn it (I have it stacked by the wood stove).

My questions are, is that moldy wood still ok to burn if I split them into smaller pieces? I been burning these splits for the last 3 weeks or so, and noticed there seems to me more turning to coal and less flames, maybe I damper down to quickly? If not can I use unseasoned birch and ash if I dry them out by the wood stove (I tried a couple of pieces and the moisture reading after 4 days by the wood stove is 18%, but is it still considered "green").

Also, my inside pipe goes up about 24" then there is a 90 degree turn, and then goes through the wall to the outside chimney, do I need to inspect it after 3 weeks of "not-so-good" burning? If so, I do not have a brush to clean it out with, what can I use instead? (I'm picking up a brush tomorrow).

One more thing I also noticed in the mornings some of the ashes are dark-brown while some are white, is that normal?

Thanks for your time and answers. Be gentle, I'm new.
edit: after-burners means secondaries, I just remembered that is what they are called.

 

[aansorge]

I don't have a flue thermometer, so I'm not an expert there. However, I do have a stove similar to yours, my Enerzone. For a typical burn you want it to be good and hot to let the secondaries run. They will run an hour or two before the coaling stage begins. This stage will last about 3 to 6hours.

Your wood sounds fine. Letting it warm up inside next to the stove is a great way to get rid of the exterior moisture.

 

[jatoxico]

I'm a little confused, when you got spooked was it your stove temp that was 600 or the flue? A 600 stove top is not excessive (you could help out by posting the type of pipe you have (single wall double wall etc) and a pic is always helpful). I believe in reading the fire and it sounds like you backed off to lower temps and your glass blacked up when it really wanted to run hot which is OK.

Just a standard comment/question; how are you measuring your moisture content? Should be taken on the face after freshly splitting to get the interior moisture content. Put the probes of your meter w/ the grain.

aansorge gave you the right advice about the fuzzy stuff etc. As long as the heart wood is solid burn it. Bring it in the house for a day or so to remove the residual exterior moisture.

Edit; Osbourne 2000 DOH! didn't see that.

 

[Warm_in_NH]

A probe thermometer into a double wall pipe is much different than a surface temp on a single wall pipe. I cruise around 600 on mine but often get up to 900 on start ups.

 

[Rainstorm1962]

Hi again, thanks for the replies.

I'm a little confused, when you got spooked was it your stove temp that was 600 or the flue? A 600 stove top is not excessive (you could help out by posting the type of pipe you have (single wall double wall etc) and a pic is always helpful). I believe in reading the fire and it sounds like you backed off to lower temps and your glass blacked up when it really wanted to run hot which is OK.[\quote]

Hi sorry, the inside pipe is double-walled and the temperature probe is installed into it, it is the flu temperature that went to 600F. I do not have a thermometer to sit on top of the stove.

Just a standard comment/question; how are you measuring your moisture content? Should be taken on the face after freshly splitting to get the interior moisture content. Put the probes of your meter w/ the grain.

aansorge gave you the right advice about the fuzzy stuff etc. As long as the heart wood is solid burn it. Bring it in the house for a day or so to remove the residual exterior moisture.

I measure the content on the face right after the splitting it. Thanks for mentioning w/grain, I wasn't sure which way I should do it.

A probe thermometer into a double wall pipe is much different than a surface temp on a single wall pipe. I cruise around 600 on mine but often get up to 900 on start ups.

900F on startup? yikes! (for me).

I have another question, sometimes the wood shoots sparks out, is that an issue? Also, should I start running it hotter now, or wait until I clean out the pipe? Too me, three weeks of not burning all that well (with the stove being used for only about 5 to 6 weeks since it was professionally swept) shouldn't be cause for concern yet, but I definitely would be if this was towards the end of January. Either way I'm picking up a brush tomorrow when the stores open again.

Thanks again, all.

 

[Warm_in_NH]

Being new here myself I'll let the more seasoned folks pick this one up n run with it. I'm about 6 weeks in on burning nearly 24/7 with decent wood, but far from ideal. For peace of mind I will be sweeping the pipe by the weekend . It will also serve as a good reference for the rest of the season.
Good luck and welcome, lots of good info here. Try doing a search on your stove and temps too.
Oh yeah, my temps are on a probe thermometer about 18" above the stove into a double wall pipe.

 

[jatoxico]

Hi again, thanks for the replies.

Sounds like you're doing fine. Taking the time to understand your fuel supply and how your stove works will pay off. The glass and bricks darkening some is normal, blackening brings into question the wood or how the stove is being run. Burn hot (give it air) and you'll do well. After a burn I usually am left with white ashes some black coals etc so that's normal as far as I can tell. I like to throw a few kindling size pieces on the coal bed to burn them down before a full reload. This tends to completely brighten up the bricks and firebox. Welcome aboard and keep asking questions if you have them.

PS did you post your stove type? I didn't see it.

 

[rideau]

The flue probe thermometer should have safe ranges indicated on it. 600 degrees is right in the middle of the normal operating flue temp, measured internally. Sounds like all you need to do is burn as you were before you got worried.

 

[Rainstorm1962]

The nameplate on the stove pipe just reads: Listed Double Wall Connector.
@rideau it does show a range, but when I thought I lost control, well, being in the middle meant to me little wiggle room and all it would take is for bark to fall off and then up the temperature shoots... (yes that happened to me as well, and I wasn't impressed, lol).

I have a couple of other questions I posted in my 2nd post but used the quote wrong so it appeared in the quote box, and not out side of it:

Sometimes the wood shoots sparks out, is that an issue? Also, should I start running it hotter now, or wait until I clean out the pipe? To me, three weeks of not burning all that well (with the stove being used for only about 5 to 6 weeks since it was professionally swept) shouldn't be cause for concern yet, but it definitely would be if this was towards the end of January. Either way I'm picking up a brush tomorrow when the stores open again.

 

[HotCoals]

Sparks will shoot off my wood now and then..I never worried about it.
When in doubt-check it out!

 

[Rainstorm1962]

Sparks will shoot off my wood now and then..I never worried about it.
When in doubt-check it out!

I got the flu temp up to 450 (lit the stove about 15 mins ago), one side of the secondaries is going), damper 2/3rd closed. My next question is, when do I reload it? Seriously, I think part of my problems for the last 3 weeks was reloading it too late (when the wood burnt down to glowing coals).

Also I cleaned the glass using the wet paper towel with ash on it and wow does that ever work well, No more over cleaner and windex and wads of paper towel! Took just 2 sheets of paper towel and a minute.

edit: 500F now, a lot better heat and the glass is staying clean.

 

[act700h1]

Sounds like you're doing fine. Taking the time to understand your fuel supply and how your stove works will pay off. The glass and bricks darkening some is normal, blackening brings into question the wood or how the stove is being run. Burn hot (give it air) and you'll do well. After a burn I usually am left with white ashes some black coals etc so that's normal as far as I can tell. I like to throw a few kindling size pieces on the coal bed to burn them down before a full reload. This tends to completely brighten up the bricks and firebox. Welcome aboard and keep asking questions if you have them.

PS did you post your stove type? I didn't see it.

Sounds like you were burning good before the scare. I do like jatoxico and after a full load I rake the charcoal (larger coal chunks) to the front and through on two smaller splits and let the stove run full air, it usually burns most of the previous charcoal/coals up and gets stove and chimney up to temp for another full load.

Learned it at http://woodheat.org. A good read for beginners

Also I have some wood like you explained which I split and mix in with the good stuff on a full load or add if everything is up to temp and burns just fine. It was from how I stacked the wood and some moisture got between stacks (too tight of stacks, no air movement). A good learning lesson that I will not repeat again.

 

[HotCoals]

I got the flu temp up to 450 (lit the stove about 15 mins ago), one side of the secondaries is going), damper 2/3rd closed. My next question is, when do I reload it? Seriously, I think part of my problems for the last 3 weeks was reloading it too late (when the wood burnt down to glowing coals).

Also I cleaned the glass using the wet paper towel with ash on it and wow does that ever work well, No more over cleaner and windex and wads of paper towel! Took just 2 sheets of paper towel and a minute.

edit: 500F now, a lot better heat and the glass is staying clean.

Sounds good!
Windex has ammonia =not good!
I use ash's sometimes or even a blade scraper. I get a lot of black caked on crap with my cat stove when i burn really low in the shoulder seasons.
When in the cold I don't have nearly the problem. A good hot fire usually cleans it off or even during the coal burn down at full air can do it.

 

[andybaker]

I have a zero clearance insert but really, that is mostly like a stove in the wall. From what I've read about fire science I've learned these facts. At least I think they are facts but seems to work for how I figure things out. The secondaries will not light up until the temp there reaches 1000F. That doesn't mean the box itself is 1000F, that's how hot the fire is itself. My manufacturer says I need to keep an internal temp in my chimney of at least 600F to keep creosote from sticking. However a good clean burn with secondaries will help most with that. So I always burn to keep the chimney hot and I sweep it once a year and never get more than 2 cups out of the chimney and there is no creosote in that. The wetter the wood, give it more air. If it's getting too hot for your liking, don't load so much but keep the secondaries going. That's what the stove is for. Remember a stove with a CAT doesn't have the secondary burners. The CAT will ignite the smoke at 500F. That's the attraction of having a CAT stove, better control and that's why I think when I change I'll be looking at Woodstock with a CAT. I think your running it a bit scared, which is good, but you choked your fire too much and that made issues. Sounds like your on your way back to normal. Build on normal. OH, and btw, I would not store wood with mold growing on it in the house for more than a couple hours if that. I wouldn't want any of those spores floating in my breathing air.