My husband & I would like to replace our existing DutchWest wood stove (which predates our ownership and apparently wasn't installed to code) with something that doesn't require additional floor insulation. Available options appear to include the Hearthstone Hipster 20 and the Alderlea T4 LE. We've reviewed all the specs on these, and both would appear to fit the space and suit our needs. We'd like a stove that isn't too fussy and would love feedback from folks who have owned & operated one or both of these. TIA!
Hipster 20 / Alderlea T4 LE
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Of the 2, the T4 is a less complicated design and lower maintenance. Do you know what Dutchwest stove model came with the house?
It would help to know more about how the stove will be used? Will it be mostly for a few nights and weekends, or most days throughout the heating season? How large of a room will the stove be in? Is this room open to the rest of the house or is there a doorway separating it? How many stories does the house have and what is the total sq. ftg.?
It would help to know more about how the stove will be used? Will it be mostly for a few nights and weekends, or most days throughout the heating season? How large of a room will the stove be in? Is this room open to the rest of the house or is there a doorway separating it? How many stories does the house have and what is the total sq. ftg.?
Thanks, begreen! I'm not sure which Dutchwest stove we currently have. The stove will be used many / most days throughout the heating season, although we do have backup oil heat that we use as needed. It sits in a small room (~150 square feet) that opens onto two larger ones and primarily heats the central living area of the house (~500-600 square feet), but it also supplements heating in the peripheral rooms (with doors) and on the second floor (~2600 square feet total).
My husband spends much of every day sitting directly in front of this stove, and I would like him to be comfortable.
My husband spends much of every day sitting directly in front of this stove, and I would like him to be comfortable.
No, because I would need to replace the flooring. I have tile floors, but they don’t have a non combustible base. A wood stove pad would be a tripping hazard in this room.
When you say that you have tile floors without a non-combustible base, do you mean ceramic tile or something non-combustible over top of a wooden subfloor, or do you mean some kind of tile that isn't considered non-combustible?
If it's the former, I think that PE just requires ember protection only, so a tile floor would count for that. Am I correct about that, @begreen?
If it's the former, I think that PE just requires ember protection only, so a tile floor would count for that. Am I correct about that, @begreen?
I have tile over a wooden subfloor, and it looks like you are correct - the PE T5 and T6 also allow a wooden subfloor. I am also fairly constrained on the total depth since there isn't much space, and I was looking at the T4 because I thought it was smaller. My current stove sits 32" from the wall, but I think it's a fire hazard. The T4 is 35.75" (27.75" deep plus 8" clearance with a double wall pipe), the T5 is 33.5" (28.5" deep plus 5" clearance), and the T6 is 36.25" (28.75" deep plus 7.5" clearance). So the T5 might be a better option for depth, plus it's much larger. Thanks!
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As far as I know they only require ember protection, (My T5 only needs ember protection) but I think the T5 and 6 would be too much for a 150 sq ft room unless it had huge doorways!
Thanks! It does have huge doorways. Also, I wildly underestimated that space - it's closer to 900 square feet in the central living space. The stove sits on the edge of the den (12'x14') and next to an 8' opening to the kitchen (18'x28'). There are double doors opening from the den to the dining room (14'x14').
Follow-up question: we currently have just over a cord of wood (19-20") stored in the shed from last summer. Would this fit into a T5 (recommended log length 16", max 18") if we put it in at an angle? Or should we try to find someone who will cart away all our seasoned wood?
The longer pieces might be a tad tight. Close that door slowly! You don’t want to crack the glass! I’d never get rid of seasoned wood. It’s hard to find! If you need to cut the longer pieces down, so be it.
1 cord will last a little less than a month in your climate while learning a new stove. As you learn the stove, your usage will go down. I recommend getting at least 3 more cords now and stacking them to dry asap. It takes time to dry, sometimes multiple years.
I don’t see where you mentioned chimney height. PE stoves can be easy breathers and too tall of a chimney can be a big issue.
1 cord will last a little less than a month in your climate while learning a new stove. As you learn the stove, your usage will go down. I recommend getting at least 3 more cords now and stacking them to dry asap. It takes time to dry, sometimes multiple years.
I don’t see where you mentioned chimney height. PE stoves can be easy breathers and too tall of a chimney can be a big issue.
Yes, ember protection can be as simple as a sheet of steel as long as it seemlessly covers the required hearth area. Tile is also fine as long as it is grouted. If not, and they're loose, then there should be a sheet of metal underneath the tiles.
I would opt for the T5. It is much easier to load a stove N/S (wood parallel to the sides) so that there is no worry about logs rolling up against the glass. A 19" log may be able to squeak in diagonally, but not a 21". Be very careful doing this. Closing the door against a log end sticking out too far will break the glass. The T5 also has the swing-out trivet top which is great for cooking, raising bread dough, etc.
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That tile floor sounds like just what you need then, and it does sound like a T5 would be better for you all around. I love the sound of the layout around the woodstove and the lovely wide doorways.
I agree that I would not want to get rid of seasoned wood, though you wouldn't want to try to force it into the stove if it's really too long. You do want to see about laying in a supply of properly sized wood, though, either by cutting down what you've got or better yet getting more. I think it's fairly easy to use a chop saw to cut the ends off split wood, but I've never operated one myself. I leave that to my husband. I don't know if you have that option. If we have pieces that are too long we set them aside and burn them diagonally on days where we don't want a full load. Putting just one on top of a load of coals can also be a good way to help them burn down.
I agree that I would not want to get rid of seasoned wood, though you wouldn't want to try to force it into the stove if it's really too long. You do want to see about laying in a supply of properly sized wood, though, either by cutting down what you've got or better yet getting more. I think it's fairly easy to use a chop saw to cut the ends off split wood, but I've never operated one myself. I leave that to my husband. I don't know if you have that option. If we have pieces that are too long we set them aside and burn them diagonally on days where we don't want a full load. Putting just one on top of a load of coals can also be a good way to help them burn down.
@EatenByLimestone, I'm not sure about the chimney height, but the stove is in the center of the first floor of a two-story cape that is 28' deep with standard 8' ceilings and a 12/12 roof pitch. The pipe enters the wall at 4.5'. Thus, I assume that it is about 8' + 14' + 3' - 4.5' = 20.5' high, give or take a few feet. Is this too tall? I can also ask my chimney sweep, who seems very knowledgeable.
Effective 20’ tall chimney will work, especially if you are at altitude. You’ll want a key damper. I use one on my 17’ chimney. When it gets real cold, you’ll want it!
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