Hl300 not burning completely

[MourningWood]

This is my first new thread. I have been looking for a thread already open for this but haven't found one.

So I got a Hampton HL300 insert earlier this year. I just used roxul and sheet metal to install a block off plate, which everyone seems to agree is a must. My chimney is an exterior chimney. I asked the installer about it when they installed it. His response was I didn't need one. When installing they seal off the top with cement. And the block off plate is for when you use a metal cap. My response was, doesn't the exterior brick suck the heat and the block off plate would stop the heat from rising and being wasted. I got tired of arguing with him so I just did it myself. The only reason I had them install is for insurance perposes if anything were to happen either they would be responsible or my insurance would pay and not try to say it was something I did.

That being said. I start a small fire with kindling and a few small splits to get the unit warmed up and nice hot coals. Move them to the front and load east to west. I fill the box up with medium sized to large splits. I put the largest one in the back and build forward. I leave a gap on the top by not loading past the bricks. I read that it needs a gap for the secondaries to work correctly. I also don't load past the bricks in the front although some of the coals I rake to the front are past right in the front. Side question... Should I keep them on the brick as well? I currently bring the wood to the front edge of the brick. And then I put a couple smaller splits right on top of the coals. The fire start up pretty quickly with the door cracked then I shut it. When the wood is charred on the top I start backing the air down till I get lazy flames. Usually it about 1/4 then I leave them get quick again and back it down some more. Last couple fires I need to leave it half way out or a little more to keep good secondaries. My temps (measuring from the top of the fire box right between the air gap on the top) top out around 550-600 maybe a little more then they drop slowly over the burn. When the fire goes out the log at the back is usually not burn through. Last night when it stopped the bottom back two were not burn through. I tried closing the air down a little more last night. I was probably little under halfway to 3/4 closed.

When starting I can close the air down all the way and get good burn and secondaries. But when the top row burns through the fire goes out. So have been playing with the air controls trying to figure this out. Like I said above I find best luck with complete burn when keeping the air 1/2 way open or more.

Can I get some opinions please.

O ya I have a 6 inch liner I believe double wall and I know it is insulated. I just installed the block off plate at the dampener. My chimney is pretty short. I live in a colonial 2 story house. The chimney goes almost up the the top roof but is attached the to the room with lower roof. I would say 25-30 feet. At the crown it is sealed off with cement.

 

[Deano31]

I have the same stove and never
Have this problem I actually almost fully close my air down the only thing that I would think is that your wood is to high in mc I would by a moisture meter and split a piece and check it and I always load my stove n/s

 

[MourningWood]

I have the same stove and never
Have this problem I actually almost fully close my air down the only thing that I would think is that your wood is to high in mc I would by a moisture meter and split a piece and check it and I always load my stove n/s

Thank you for the response. I have a moisture meter and tested a couple pieces as you described. I would agree with you when you say it is probably a little high on the mc. I was testing 20-25% some were better than others. As this is my first year and I didn't know until it was to late. I bought enough to wood that there should be 2 cords left over for next year. I plan on buying enough each year so that I am always using the wood front the year before. That way I know it is seasoned. Everyone around here says their wood is season and ready to burn. However I haven't found a company yet that it really is. Usually it has been seasoned for six months in a big pile. I used my fireplace opened for years before getting the insert. So I have tried about 6-7 different wood sources.

Would that moisture content levels I shared caused my issue? Is this really high or just a little. I don't know how much the swing is on something like this.

Also with the loading north to south. Do you find that this burns quicker? How long do you get out of your burns? I was getting 4-6 hours of burn time plus the good couple hours from the coals. I did start burning the newer stuff just a little while ago. I was burning last years wood before.

 

[velvetfoot]

I only burn ns. Have dry wood. If things are going strong I'll close it all the way. But I know I'll have to open it some more during the burn otherwise it may not burn fully. If I have a lot of coals ill open it all the way and let it burn down and then emptybt ashes and clean the glass. Overnight, I'll keep it at1/4 and therll be coals in the morning. That's with a pretty late loading though.

 

[MourningWood]

I only burn ns. Have dry wood. If things are going strong I'll close it all the way. But I know I'll have to open it some more during the burn otherwise it may not burn fully. If I have a lot of coals ill open it all the way and let it burn down and then emptybt ashes and clean the glass. Overnight, I'll keep it at1/4 and therll be coals in the morning. That's with a pretty late loading though.

Thank you for you comment. I have been reading a lot of your posts in other threads and I find them very helpful. I will try the north to south thing tonight.

 

[velvetfoot]

And, I think you're overthinking your starting routine. You can buy a lot of those fire starter squares at the hardware store for 15 bucks or so. I load it up, break off a piece, put in on the bottom near the air hole, light the starter, and keep the door cracked open for a while. I put as much wood as I can in there if it's cold or overnight.

 

[Deano31]

And, I think you're overthinking your starting routine. You can buy a lot of those fire starter squares at the hardware store for 15 bucks or so. I load it up, break off a piece, put in on the bottom near the air hole, light the starter, and keep the door cracked open for a while. I put as much wood as I can in there if it's cold or overnight.

I agree I load the stove all the way up as much as I can sometimes don't over think it try north south and see if that makes a difference not sure if your moisture will effect it that much my wood is all 20% or less actually I like 17 or less but you have what you have I have told some people to just buy 2 of the bundles from a home store that are kiln dried just use that for a load just to see if you get different results I know it's a waste of money but it will help you figure out what it is

 

[jscs.moore]

This is my first new thread. I have been looking for a thread already open for this but haven't found one.

So I got a Hampton HL300 insert earlier this year. I just used roxul and sheet metal to install a block off plate, which everyone seems to agree is a must. My chimney is an exterior chimney. I asked the installer about it when they installed it. His response was I didn't need one. When installing they seal off the top with cement. And the block off plate is for when you use a metal cap. My response was, doesn't the exterior brick suck the heat and the block off plate would stop the heat from rising and being wasted. I got tired of arguing with him so I just did it myself. The only reason I had them install is for insurance perposes if anything were to happen either they would be responsible or my insurance would pay and not try to say it was something I did.

That being said. I start a small fire with kindling and a few small splits to get the unit warmed up and nice hot coals. Move them to the front and load east to west. I fill the box up with medium sized to large splits. I put the largest one in the back and build forward. I leave a gap on the top by not loading past the bricks. I read that it needs a gap for the secondaries to work correctly. I also don't load past the bricks in the front although some of the coals I rake to the front are past right in the front. Side question... Should I keep them on the brick as well? I currently bring the wood to the front edge of the brick. And then I put a couple smaller splits right on top of the coals. The fire start up pretty quickly with the door cracked then I shut it. When the wood is charred on the top I start backing the air down till I get lazy flames. Usually it about 1/4 then I leave them get quick again and back it down some more. Last couple fires I need to leave it half way out or a little more to keep good secondaries. My temps (measuring from the top of the fire box right between the air gap on the top) top out around 550-600 maybe a little more then they drop slowly over the burn. When the fire goes out the log at the back is usually not burn through. Last night when it stopped the bottom back two were not burn through. I tried closing the air down a little more last night. I was probably little

When starting I can close the air down all the way and get good burn and secondaries. But when the top row burns through the fire goes out. So have been playing with the air controls trying to figure this out. Like I said above I find best luck with complete burn when keeping the air 1/2 way open or more.

Can I get some opinions please.

O ya I have a 6 inch liner I believe double wall and I know it is insulated. I just installed the block off plate at the dampener. My chimney is pretty short. I live in a colonial 2 story house. The chimney goes almost up the the top roof but is attached the to the room with lower roof. I would say 25-30 feet. At the crown it is sealed off with cement.

Congrats on the HI300...just had mine installed in September. Unfortunately, I had the same experience with the installer telling me a block off plate was not necessary. I'm hoping to get this resolved either thru the dealer or do it my self with some help. Have you noticed a big difference in getting to cruising temps with the block off plate? That's my big issue right now...seems to take about 60 to 90 minutes to get to cruising temps (450 to 550)...but once it does get to cruising temp, it kicks out some serious heat!!
In terms of your fire dying off when the air intake is closed way down is interesting. I have a similar set up with a 2 story Colonial exterior chimney and a 28ft insulated liner. My draft is very strong and it never takes much at all to get the fire roaring from a cold start and once I start closing the air down, I almost always get very strong secondaries coming off the baffles! Thanks to Velvetfoot I now load N/S and that does seem to burn faster and hotter than E/W. I'm very much a newbie so I certainly don't have the answer for you...but you shouldn't have any problems with the fire dying off much when the air is closed way down. I will say that when I have tried to burn less than bone dry wood, I have had some problems with smoldering wood when the air is closed down? Anyway, congrats on the HI300...I think it's a great insert and I just need to get my block off plate & insulation to make it burn hotter and more efficiently!

 

[MourningWood]

Congrats on the HI300...just had mine installed in September. Unfortunately, I had the same experience with the installer telling me a block off plate was not necessary. I'm hoping to get this resolved either thru the dealer or do it my self with some help. Have you noticed a big difference in getting to cruising temps with the block off plate? That's my big issue right now...seems to take about 60 to 90 minutes to get to cruising temps (450 to 550)...but once it does get to cruising temp, it kicks out some serious heat!!
In terms of your fire dying off when the air intake is closed way down is interesting. I have a similar set up with a 2 story Colonial exterior chimney and a 28ft insulated liner. My draft is very strong and it never takes much at all to get the fire roaring from a cold start and once I start closing the air down, I almost always get very strong secondaries coming off the baffles! Thanks to Velvetfoot I now load N/S and that does seem to burn faster and hotter than E/W. I'm very much a newbie so I certainly don't have the answer for you...but you shouldn't have any problems with the fire dying off much when the air is closed way down. I will say that when I have tried to burn less than bone dry wood, I have had some problems with smoldering wood when the air is closed down? Anyway, congrats on the HI300...I think it's a great insert and I just need to get my block off plate & insulation to make it burn hotter and more efficiently!

I love this unit. I think it is my wood. Before I got to this section of wood. I was using left over from last year. I will split a piece and measure to be sure.

As far as the block off plate. I think it heats up much quicker. I bought a pyrometer and a thermomiter to read it. Here is the link http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=441. I got it on sale and spent a little under 100 on it. It is more for piece of mind then anything. I have the wireless one in my bedroom. It has a over fire alarm that can be set to any temp you want. Unfortunately I installed this when I installed the block off. So I can't tell you for sure. The units can plug in or are battery powered. I felt attached to the unit feeling if I walked away it would take off or something. Now I can just take the wireless one anywhere in my house. Like I said overly complicated but it really helps me with piece of mind. It also has a reload alarm.

I will post my results with the wood moisture hopefully tomorrow. Before I did the block off plate I had really strong draft and had to turn air down all the way to keep the temperature down below 650. My dealer told me that a block off plate might cause the draft to become weaker because the liner would be getting cool in the chimney. I don't know if I believe him or not. I would think the heat going up from the fire and it being insulated would keep the draft strong. We might actually have the same dealer. I believe you live close to me.

 

[MourningWood]

And, I think you're overthinking your starting routine. You can buy a lot of those fire starter squares at the hardware store for 15 bucks or so. I load it up, break off a piece, put in on the bottom near the air hole, light the starter, and keep the door cracked open for a while. I put as much wood as I can in there if it's cold or overnight.

I have some fire starters. My wife got me dynamite from plow and hearth as a joke for Christmas. I loaded north to south tonight and loaded up the the top of the brick. Not completely full but it isn't that cold here tonight currently in the low 30's. Put the starter in the middle like you said and started it that way. Work well like you said it would. I was going strong around 530F nice secondaries. My air control was still out 1/2 to 3/4. But I think like jscs and others said it could be my wood isn't dry enough to turn it down any lower. I am going to split and test moisture hopefully tomorrow. Thankfully this year hasn't been cold and there hasn't be a real savings or need for it much. The wood I bought this year, I will spread out in the sun over the summer so next year it is seasoned well. And I will buy similar amount next year for the following year. That way I know the wood is good.

Question about the secondary air tubes. When cruising along do they get really red? Tonight all of them except the rear most where red in the center out a good amount of the length. The center being reddest and less the further out. I know they should get cherry when a good burn is going but can they melt or get deformed? I guess I am asking how red yours get.

How do you measure the temp or do you just know by the fire? Do you worry at all about it getting to hot and damaging the box or becoming dangerous? Or do you just control the fire to suite your warming needs or wants?

A guy at work got a catalyst regency insert this year and we have been comparing notes. I know they are different but they are both made out of metal so I would think the temp limits are similar. His came with a thermometer that reads the catalyst so it more internal temperature I think. He gets his up to 1,200 to 1,300 degrees F the manual says should be between 500-700 before closing and doesn't give top temp. He runs his with the air open most of the way and has one hell of a fire and doesn't worry about it. Should I also not worry about it? I worry that I might damage the unit and I would like it to have a long useful life.

 

[velvetfoot]

Don't let the stove top get red. I would worry about it, like the manual says. I'm not sure at all about the tubes. The manual says nothing about the tubes, so I don't worry. I don't use a thermometer. I look at the flames. I would put the air rod in as much as you can and still get secondaries. Wide open all the time? Crazy. Maybe your wood is wet-ish.

 

[MourningWood]

Don't let the stove top get red. I would worry about it, like the manual says. I'm not sure at all about the tubes. The manual says nothing about the tubes, so I don't worry. I don't use a thermometer. I look at the flames. I would put the air rod in as much as you can and still get secondaries. Wide open all the time? Crazy. Maybe your wood is wet-ish.

Thank you for the response.

 

[jophysx]

The tubes should be bright red during the peak of your secondary burn.

If you are concerned about burning through the load too fast with N/S loading, you might try raking your coals to one side when reloading. This is the N/S equivalent of raking the coals forward for an E/W burner. You will have at least one split sitting on the firebrick, and it will prolong the burn cycle a bit.

 

[jophysx]

BTW, "JOPhysx" is my new hearth.com ID. I used to be [email protected]. I didn't want to broadcast my email address anymore, so I made the change.

 

[jscs.moore]

I love this unit. I think it is my wood. Before I got to this section of wood. I was using left over from last year. I will split a piece and measure to be sure.

As far as the block off plate. I think it heats up much quicker. I bought a pyrometer and a thermomiter to read it. Here is the link http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=441. I got it on sale and spent a little under 100 on it. It is more for piece of mind then anything. I have the wireless one in my bedroom. It has a over fire alarm that can be set to any temp you want. Unfortunately I installed this when I installed the block off. So I can't tell you for sure. The units can plug in or are battery powered. I felt attached to the unit feeling if I walked away it would take off or something. Now I can just take the wireless one anywhere in my house. Like I said overly complicated but it really helps me with piece of mind. It also has a reload alarm.

I will post my results with the wood moisture hopefully tomorrow. Before I did the block off plate I had really strong draft and had to turn air down all the way to keep the temperature down below 650. My dealer told me that a block off plate might cause the draft to become weaker because the liner would be getting cool in the chimney. I don't know if I believe him or not. I would think the heat going up from the fire and it being insulated would keep the draft strong. We might actually have the same dealer. I believe you live close to me.

I purchased my HI300 from Estates Chimney in Holland and I've tried not to dealer bash by using their name on previous posts. However, they are very dismissive of block off plates in general. I'm not in a position to install it myself...I'm in my mid 60's with severe back injury issues, so pulling the insert is not something I can just do myself. In addition my wife thinks if I try to do it myself I'll end up burning the house down when it's all said and done Unlike most of the guys who post on this forum, screwing in light bulbs is my limit I did finally complain in writing to Estates about the problem with keeping temps up (especially when really cold outside) and that I've been advised that I should have a block off plate to keep from losing heat into the masonry and up the flue. So they responded and said they could install one (for a charge) and that they would only be removing the faceplates and installing the "blocking plate at the dampener level"?? From reading the link on installing a block off plate on this site, I thought the plate is supposed to be installed just a few inches above the fireplace opening?? In the end, I really think I am losing heat to the exterior chimney and I just want to get the job done and be done with it. My wife also thinks having the dealer do it is the best way to go because if there is a problem, it is their responsibility? Anyway, thanks for your feedback and I'm glad to see you could just install the plate yourself...wish I could!

 

[MourningWood]

I purchased my HI300 from Estates Chimney in Holland and I've tried not to dealer bash by using their name on previous posts. However, they are very dismissive of block off plates in general. I'm not in a position to install it myself...I'm in my mid 60's with severe back injury issues, so pulling the insert is not something I can just do myself. In addition my wife thinks if I try to do it myself I'll end up burning the house down when it's all said and done Unlike most of the guys who post on this forum, screwing in light bulbs is my limit I did finally complain in writing to Estates about the problem with keeping temps up (especially when really cold outside) and that I've been advised that I should have a block off plate to keep from losing heat into the masonry and up the flue. So they responded and said they could install one (for a charge) and that they would only be removing the faceplates and installing the "blocking plate at the dampener level"?? From reading the link on installing a block off plate on this site, I thought the plate is supposed to be installed just a few inches above the fireplace opening?? In the end, I really think I am losing heat to the exterior chimney and I just want to get the job done and be done with it. My wife also thinks having the dealer do it is the best way to go because if there is a problem, it is their responsibility? Anyway, thanks for your feedback and I'm glad to see you could just install the plate yourself...wish I could!

I have also tried not to dealer bash. I used Estates Chimney as well. The dealer has been really good to me other than my requests for a block off plate. In my opinion if you tried speaking with them about the block off plate before install and they dismissed you and now are saying you should have one. You should make the point that you wanted one and they said it wasn't needed. Ask to speak with an owner if you don't get anywhere. In this case you shouldn't have to pay for anything except for parts. Roxul insulation for a huge amount of it is like 50 bucks. I used one piece it came with like 12. And the piece of sheet metal cost 20-40 bucks depending on material. I know you said you can't do it yourself but I figured maybe you would like to know product costs. As far as placement of the block off plate. I believe everyone installs them right at the old dampener, this is where I did mine. This point is at the top of the masonry fire box and is still internal brick. Also it is the narrowest part of the fire box.

I really believe that my unit warms up quicker and that I could maintain a smaller fire but larger heat output if my wood was seasoned enough.

We should keep in touch through here. We live in the same area of PA and have the same insert.

 

[jscs.moore]

I have also tried not to dealer bash. I used Estates Chimney as well. The dealer has been really good to me other than my requests for a block off plate. In my opinion if you tried speaking with them about the block off plate before install and they dismissed you and now are saying you should have one. You should make the point that you wanted one and they said it wasn't needed. Ask to speak with an owner if you don't get anywhere. In this case you shouldn't have to pay for anything except for parts. Roxul insulation for a huge amount of it is like 50 bucks. I used one piece it came with like 12. And the piece of sheet metal cost 20-40 bucks depending on material. I know you said you can't do it yourself but I figured maybe you would like to know product costs. As far as placement of the block off plate. I believe everyone installs them right at the old dampener, this is where I did mine. This point is at the top of the masonry fire box and is still internal brick. Also it is the narrowest part of the fire box.

I really believe that my unit warms up quicker and that I could maintain a smaller fire but larger heat output if my wood was seasoned enough.

We should keep in touch through here. We live in the same area of PA and have the same insert.

Thanks for the feedback! I want to be fair as well and Estates were very professional, came on time and did a good job with the install. However, I did inquire about a block off plate before the install and was told it was NOT needed. Again, to be fair...I have called around to several different chimney sweeps I got off the csia.org site recommended here. Unfortunately, I got some of the same responses (i.e. "it's really not necessary" or it won't make enough difference to warrant the cost"). In the end, my wife and I have decided to just pay Estates do install the block off plate and just be done with it. The only question I have is...how are they going to install a block off plate by only removing the face plates and not pulling the insert? By my measurements...there is only about 7 to 8 inches from the top of the firebox to the bottom the brick where you would need to squeeze in and do the job? So unless they have midgets or monkeys on staff I'm not quite sure how they're going to install the plate without pulling the insert?? Anyway, again...thanks for your feedback it's very helpful, so I'll watch for your posts. So far I have received great advice from all of the hearth.com moderator staff which has been great. In terms of HI300 users...Velvet foot and Jophyxs (Jim from Portland Oregon) have given me top notch feedback on burning techniques (i.e. top/down starts & North/South loading, etc.) Thanks again!

 

[MourningWood]

Thanks for the feedback! I want to be fair as well and Estates were very professional, came on time and did a good job with the install. However, I did inquire about a block off plate before the install and was told it was NOT needed. Again, to be fair...I have called around to several different chimney sweeps I got off the csia.org site recommended here. Unfortunately, I got some of the same responses (i.e. "it's really not necessary" or it won't make enough difference to warrant the cost"). In the end, my wife and I have decided to just pay Estates do install the block off plate and just be done with it. The only question I have is...how are they going to install a block off plate by only removing the face plates and not pulling the insert? By my measurements...there is only about 7 to 8 inches from the top of the firebox to the bottom the brick where you would need to squeeze in and do the job? So unless they have midgets or monkeys on staff I'm not quite sure how they're going to install the plate without pulling the insert?? Anyway, again...thanks for your feedback it's very helpful, so I'll watch for your posts. So far I have received great advice from all of the hearth.com moderator staff which has been great. In terms of HI300 users...Velvet foot and Jophyxs (Jim from Portland Oregon) have given me top notch feedback on burning techniques (i.e. top/down starts & North/South loading, etc.) Thanks again!

I would imagine they would take the faceplates off and then pull the unit out partially to get in there. That is basically what I did. When they installed my unit the pieces were miss aligned and instead of getting them to come back I took them all off to gain access when installing plate then aligned them properly. Make sure they put insulation in before putting the plate up or it is a waste of money.

 

[MourningWood]

Update on wood moisture content. I split a couple pieces and found them to be 30-35%. The load I was burning before was measuring around 20%. I have a lot more wood down back I will try to find dryer wood which I think I should be able to find to last the rest of the year. Couple of you guys said that right off the bat and you were right. Thanks for everyone's help

 

[Deano31]

Update on wood moisture content. I split a couple pieces and found them to be 30-35%. The load I was burning before was measuring around 20%. I have a lot more wood down back I will try to find dryer wood which I think I should be able to find to last the rest of the year. Couple of you guys said that right off the bat and you were right. Thanks for everyone's help

Glad you finally found out what it was I figured that's what it was because I have the same stove as my post #2 states just a FYI if you go out back and grab a piece to split to check mc it is not going to be accurate the pieces of wood will have to be in the house for a day or two being that the molecules in the wood freeze and will not give you a accurate reading it could change by a large amount I have done this just out of curiosity when cutting wood in winter good luck

 

[jophysx]

Not to beat a dead horse, but my first year with my HI300 was a similar experience. My wood was 25% or more moisture content, and I had "juicy" splits, and lots of chunks of charred wood left over at the end of a burn cycle. I also had lots and lots of ash. I was scooping out the ash every few burns and filling my ash bucket in about 1-2 weeks. I thought the people on this forum who said they don't fill an ash bucket in an entire season were full of crap.

Last year I think I emptied my ash bucket once. I attribute this 75% to drier wood, and 20% to the block off plate, and 5% to ever-improving burn technique.

You will be happy to have the block off plate, but you will really be happy next season when your wood supply will be much better.

 

[jscs.moore]

Update on wood moisture content. I split a couple pieces and found them to be 30-35%. The load I was burning before was measuring around 20%. I have a lot more wood down back I will try to find dryer wood which I think I should be able to find to last the rest of the year. Couple of you guys said that right off the bat and you were right. Thanks for everyone's help

MourningWood...you posted earlier in this string that the dealer said the block off plate might make your draft weaker?? Has the dry wood fixed you draft issue? You had mentioned some issues about smoldering wood when you would close the air down during a burn cycle...has this been resolved? I can't imagine a block off plate would make the draft weaker..at least I hope not because right now I have a really strong draft and hope that doesn't change when I get the block off plate installed??

 

[Woody Stover]

If you are concerned about burning through the load too fast with N/S loading, you might try raking your coals to one side when reloading.

In the Buck, I pull the coals to the center and don't have coals under the stuff I load close to the side walls. Another thing you can do if loading on a coal bed, is load E-W but make a trench in the center of the coals so air can get to the back of the load for a more complete burn. But the OP probably needs to load strictly N-S with the wet wood.

A guy at work got a catalyst regency insert this year and we have been comparing notes. I know they are different but they are both made out of metal so I would think the temp limits are similar. His came with a thermometer that reads the catalyst so it more internal temperature I think. He gets his up to 1,200 to 1,300 degrees F the manual says should be between 500-700 before closing and doesn't give top temp. He runs his with the air open most of the way and has one hell of a fire and doesn't worry about it. Should I also not worry about it? I worry that I might damage the unit and I would like it to have a long useful life.

That guy is probably burning the hybrid stove, which has both cat and tubes. He may be wasting a lot of heat up the flue running the air open that far, though. You should definitely "worry about it." You don't want to over-fire your stove. Problem is, with wet wood you have to leave the air open further at the beginning but once the load finally dries out, your stove might take off with that much air.

I will try to find dryer wood which I think I should be able to find to last the rest of the year.

You might be able to tell roughly how dry the splits are by how heavy they feel when you heft 'em. Of course, a split of a denser specie like Oak will feel heavier than a soft Maple split, even if both are equally dry.

right now I have a really strong draft and hope that doesn't change when I get the block off plate installed??

I'm not sure but I've never heard anyone mention a marked difference in draft when installing a plate, just more heat in the house.

 

[jscs.moore]

In the Buck, I pull the coals to the center and don't have coals under the stuff I load close to the side walls. Another thing you can do if loading on a coal bed, is load E-W but make a trench in the center of the coals so air can get to the back of the load for a more complete burn. But the OP probably needs to load strictly N-S with the wet wood.
That guy is probably burning the hybrid stove, which has both cat and tubes. He may be wasting a lot of heat up the flue running the air open that far, though. You should definitely "worry about it." You don't want to over-fire your stove. Problem is, with wet wood you have to leave the air open further at the beginning but once the load finally dries out, your stove might take off with that much air.
You might be able to tell roughly how dry the splits are by how heavy they feel when you heft 'em. Of course, a split of a denser specie like Oak will feel heavier than a soft Maple split, even if both are equally dry.
I'm not sure but I've never heard anyone mention a marked difference in draft when installing a plate, just more heat in the house.

Thanks for the feedback...I've never read anything on this site about a block off plate decreasing your draft so I
m surprised the dealer would say that. For me, the block off plate it's the missing link...I already have an insulated liner, now going to have a block off plate installed, couple that with bone dry wood and I think I'll be good to go. I have a 28ft exterior chimney and my draft has always been very strong, I can't imagine that changing with a block off plate.

 

[MourningWood]

Thanks for the feedback...I've never read anything on this site about a block off plate decreasing your draft so I
m surprised the dealer would say that. For me, the block off plate it's the missing link...I already have an insulated liner, now going to have a block off plate installed, couple that with bone dry wood and I think I'll be good to go. I have a 28ft exterior chimney and my draft has always been very strong, I can't imagine that changing with a block off plate.

I agree with you. I don't think my draft has changed, I still have a good draft. If anything my stove heats up and maintains heat longer. Like you said it was the missing link.