Homemade Forced Air Furnace Improvement

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stev7975

New Member
Oct 15, 2018
2
Idaho
I'm not sure if this discussion might be more appropriate in the regular wood stove section, but I bought a 2 level 1970 rancher home, approximately 3,000 square feet with a home built forced air wood furnace. It is about the same age as the house, built by the previous owner. It is in some ways a marvel and I've been impressed with a lot about it but it has room for improvement. There are three things, specifically.

First, it is inefficient. Or seems like it anyway. It consumes 10 cord of tamarack every year, rain or shine. Granted, the fire burns 24-7 from the end of October through the first of April and it is a fairly large space to heat with some insulation inefficiencies. In addition, the firebox is completely open, so a huge portion of the heat generated by the fire goes up the chimney and isn't able to warm the circulated air.

Second, the draft is incredible on this machine--unless you open the door to add wood. When you do that, the entire garage and subsequently the house fills with smoke. I have dealt with this by adding a wheelbarrow of wood morning and night with all the doors open in the garage so that the wind blows the smoke away. But I lose a lot of heat, obviously and smoke still gets in the house.

Third and most important, I'm concerned about the safety of the thing. When it is cold I put a lot of wood in there and flirt with very high flue temps in order to generate enough heat to keep the house warm. It will make enough heat to keep the house warm in sub-zero temps, but I have to put a lot of wood in it and allow enough fresh air to create a substantial fire--much of which goes out the chimney.

I had considered going to an automated wood furnace or even an outdoor unit but I'm cheap, stubborn and like experimenting so I thought I could try to modify the firebox by adding a baffle system which might help solve all three problems. The firebox is made of an old pressure tank of some kind and is at least 3/16" thick. It is 40 inches deep with a 29 inch diameter. The air control is a 6" square door in the front. The outlet pipe is 6" round, about 6 inches from the back of the tank which goes up and immediately 90 degrees into the masonry chimney with a 6x8 clay flue which is about 25 feet tall.

I'm thinking about cutting some 1/4" sheet to fit and make a shelf about two inches below the outlet pipe and force the gases to travel to the front of the box before going back to the outlet. The problem is I'm sure that will make the smoke problem even worse, but it might be worth it to achieve greater efficiency and safety. Maybe both a baffle and smoke curtain?

I have attached a crude sideview diagram of the furnace. If anyone has suggestions or places to look for more information, I would love to hear about it. Thank you!
 

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Welcome @stev7975 !
I'm no expert, just a few thoughts/observations...

I assume your homeowners insurance company knows about this furnace? Heaven forbid that thing burns your house down one day, even worse is the insurance company says it wasn't legit and they don't cover the loss.

How much do you like making firewood? What else could you do with your time if you only made 5 cords of wood/year? There are times when an engineered furnace is just worth it. To me, I wouldn't want to be obligated to making so much wood just to stay even.

The 6" round duct for the forced air seems awfully small. A lot of our furnaces have two 8" round ducts, which are the smallest allowed parts of the air system. What is the temperature of the hot duct coming out of the furnace? If it's super hot (say 160F to 180F?), you might be able to extract a little more heat if you could push more air through there, with bigger ducts.

Smarter guys than me might say that if you put an insulated liner in your chimney, that you'd have less smoke while loading. That would really annoy me. And be another reason to consider a properly-engineered and installed furnace.
 
@stev7975 welcome, Your idea for a baffle will help with heat retention but will cause more smoke spillage and will not last long. a better baffle would be a frame to support fire brick, be sure and make it removable and easy to replace bricks and support. mild does not hold up well in that environment, SS will but it warps bad and is costly. a lot of the smoke spillage is due to the flue being to small, you really need an 8 inch. Check out my threads on my homemade boiler and all the improvements/ mods I've done to it for some more thoughts.
 
Can you share some details of your chimney setup? And what do you consider "very high" flue temps?