Horizontal vs Vertical

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BoiledOver

Minister of Fire
Apr 14, 2013
629
43°58'55 N - 85°20' W
I have been going round and round about breaking away from the swinging splitter routine. Twice I almost made the purchase of a new log splitter, but did not. The reason is machine ergonomics.

Many of the home made splitters are mounted to an axle at one end. I am thinking a more balanced unit would be better for maneuverability. Just missed one that was newly listed on craigslist, it looks like it would be an easy unit to work over and move about. Obviously someone else saw the same qualities and it went immediately. Experience has taught me that larger tires equals better mobility.

So, now I am thinking of building to my preferred specs rather than wait around for a suitable used unit. One big beef is standing space. I'm thinking I would like to belly up to the bar when working the rounds. Meaning there would be no obstacles in the vicinity of my feet. Most models have the wheel/axle/hydraulic reservoir parts right where the right or left foot and leg should be. Iron/Oak and Timberwolf looks to be the closest thing to considering this aspect appropriately but I don't hanker to pay premium just for that. Vertical doesn't appeal to me but maybe I have misinterpreted its value.

What is your most comfortable method while splitting your firewood? Where do you like the top of the beam to be while in the horizontal? Knee high, belly button?
 
Horizontal without a doubt.
 
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My opinion for a horizontal beam to be at the height that when you stand straight a closed fist should be able to place your knuckles on the beam.
 
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I kept mine a little lower than the waist and above my knee to give my feet better grip and I believe my torso has better torque while not putting greater strain on my lower back. So far, these rounds are at my hip. If I had a continuous supply of smaller rounds requiring a splitter I would opt for a belly button or higher height since the halves would be easier to manipulate. I would not want to work my present rounds any higher. I have had instances where larger objects were too difficult for me to move at an elevated height. I think larger rounds might be difficult if I worked them higher. At the knee/hip height, I think it is easier to spring out of the way if something got away from me.
 
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I built mine myself. I set the beam at just shy of waist high so i can hoist the heavier logs up and balance them on my hip or upper thigh to swing them on the bar. My balance is great for pushing it around by hand when necessary too, having the engine at the far end of the beam and the tank over the wheels. My biggest regret is not getting a stronger beam. I've busted and twisted my beam, then re-welded it back together several times on wet oak and maple.
I believe it's 1/4" IBeam. I should have gone with 1/2" and called it a day.

I have plans for it if you need some. Here's a pic of a similar one, though my tires aren't quite so big and skinny and my bar height is much taller. I can split 36" sticks with it easily, but I have a good sized fireplace so that's about how i like 'em.

spltr-jpg.jpg
 
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Horizontal. Higher is better, your back will thank you. Supersplit HD with the factory work table is better still, both for production and for ergonomics. I could only split a while, maybe an hour and a half, on a standard beam height hydraulic (22-24") before my back hurt. Can split as much as I want on the Supersplit, no discomfort from hunching over.
 
Some really good replies. Thank you all who have shared. No one has offered input for the vertical rigs. Good or bad reviews of vertical will be appreciated.

So working horizontal at waist height is a pretty good starting point in design. Checked the Supersplit HD outfit and see they are priced up there with the Iron/Oak and Timberwolves.
 
Sorry, to answer your question, I want my foot area clear and I prefer the horizontal design. Even when I was in shape, I would rather work on my knees or bend down and pick up a round than work it bent over. I have spoken with others about their vertical splitters and most seem to like the design. A few have agreed that using the splitter vertically is difficult. I guess it all depends on your needs and ability. Due to the recent sale pricing, I almost purchased a new v/h unit last week with the intention of reversing the beam to increase foot space and protecting the engine.
 
Some really good replies. Thank you all who have shared. No one has offered input for the vertical rigs. Good or bad reviews of vertical will be appreciated.

So working horizontal at waist height is a pretty good starting point in design. Checked the Supersplit HD outfit and see they are priced up there with the Iron/Oak and Timberwolves.


i thought you were building one?
 
i thought you were building one?
Member computeruser suggested the Supersplit so I took a look. Am planning and pricing to build now but still open to a used purchase. The one you posted a pic of looks pretty nice. Is that an adjustable stop gauge on top of the cylinder? Looks like the exhaust is directed at the user.
 
Member computeruser suggested the Supersplit so I took a look. Am planning and pricing to build now but still open to a used purchase. The one you posted a pic of looks pretty nice. Is that an adjustable stop gauge on top of the cylinder? Looks like the exhaust is directed at the user.

that one's not mine, just a general facsimile. Looks like that might be a stop gauge. I split 'em big so not necessary on mine. My exhaust has a 3/4" pipe that lays down along the beam when not in use, then raises up to about 5" above the beam when running. It originally did exhaust on me. nice and warm, but the headaches, Oy!
 
As said, the higher the beam surface is, the better it is for horizontal splitting. But as important, when the beam is high the pivot point to go vertical is closer to the axle / oil tank. That is further to the right. This makes more standing room to load the round. And more room for the split to fall and not hit the tire. Hope that makes sense.

And you do need one that goes vertical, unless you want to lift 18 inch rounds onto the beam.

They are heavy, and don't move well on unpaved surface. I tow mine with a ATV.

If your hand splitting to run a stove, get the splitter. The 20 ton splitter most of us have do the job effortlessly.
 
built my own, cost vs having everything were you want it and features is way more value. i built mine out of an old harvester frame, horizontal but its a long beam you can move the front up or down based on what you want, 10hp honda(you want honda kawi or kohler engine for ease of use and noise. the only thing i still need is a tray. i have it attached to tractor or rhino and move down the pile and split and stack in one step. ive found they dry fastest if you stack them in long piles
 
Whatever height the Super Split is works for me. Not having to bend over and pick up the pieces that fall is a huge help. I've run too many hydro units that forced my back to quit before I was ready to.
 
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My preferences:
1. Speed over massive tonnage. I get more wood done faster and can’t really physically handle the large rounds anyway. Anything over 16 inches gets noodled with the saw before it goes into the trailer.
2. Moving wedge/fixed plate, not stationary wedge/moving plate. I usually do multiple splits per round, and I don’t like chasing the wood past the wedge then bringing it back for the next pass. With moving wedge, the wood stays put.
Now, an adjustable 4 way wedge, with outflow table table and conveyor, then of course I would love stationary wedge and moving wood design.
3. Must have table of some sort on each side. Picking wood off the ground is many times harder on the back. Half the round goes on the table waiting while continuing on the half nearest me. I use my log lift as the table on the far side, and have a small plywood pad on the near side. The log lift is also a staging table that holds up to 10 12 inch diameter rounds.
4. Higher is better. Slight bend over in the back really hurts me.
5. Location of the valve lever such that it falls naturally to reach, without looking, and without requiring any motion of my back.
6. Leg room is important, for vertical standing with the back.
7. I rarely if ever use the vertical mode. Sitting down is nice, but I find it hard bent over, wrestling rounds on the flat surface is hard (even with a partial sheet of plywood on the ground), and throwing the splits upwards to a pile is hard on my shoulders. I used to do big rounds to halves or quarters first vertical, then switch to H and finsih the work. I have just gotten more selective in the wood I take, just a homeowner heating anyway. Can’t handle the big stuff anymore.
 
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This one line should be carved into every woodsplitter ever built:

7. I rarely if ever use the vertical mode. Sitting down is nice, but I find it hard bent over, wrestling rounds on the flat surface is hard (even with a partial sheet of plywood on the ground), and throwing the splits upwards to a pile is hard on my shoulders. Can't handle the big stuff anymore.

Even if you can handle the big stuff now, you can't handle it for long and there WILL come a time when you can't handle it at all. Every effort should be made to keep the back straight when working.
 
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Wow, some really good information here. Thanks again to all who have contributed.

Sure have to wonder why there are more H/V splitters being sold today. This thread has not seen much good info on behalf of the vertical splitters even thought those models dominate the market. Are the users not satisfied?
 
I have an H/V. I prefer to use it horizontally, and do when I can get rounds on the beam without straining the innards too much. But when I can't do that, I can go vertical in a minute and get it done quite easily. Sometimes I just halve or third or quarter then go back to horizontal to finish - sometimes I do the whole round while vertical. It's like having a 4x4 vehicle - don't need or use it 95% of the time, but when you have to you are very glad you have it. So I would never have a horizontal only, for what I do & how I use it.

I also don't feel handicapped at all by the machine layout - it is actually very good. Lots of room for feet, and can work from either side equally as well. Now that I am watching for that kind of thing in any splitter I see or come across, that seems to be not a widespread thing in splitter design. That and having the engine out of harms way.

This is mine:

http://www.surgemaster.ca/26hvgc-l-horz-vert-splitter.html

It's a repainted & rebadged Wallenstein. I would recommend one without reservation.

EDIT : I just looked closer at that page. I don't know why but the one pic with buddy splitting - he's standing on the wrong side of the axle. Not sure why that is - lots of room behind the axle and the round is right there right in front of you. With control right at hand, front & center. Whether H or V.
 
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We have two splitters one 35 year old H/V 22 ton and a 3-point hitch 24 ton vertical that I built 40 plus years ago. I much prefer the 3PH vertical and it is the one that I use the most. Height is infinitely adjustable from grade to well above the waist so it's easy to find the most comfortable for the size and weight wood being split. Since it is affixed to the tractor it is also much easier to maneuver into position and the tractor is substantially quieter than standing beside the small engine on the H/V.

I generally leave it at grade to split to manageable size if dealing with large rounds, then set it high enough that I am standing up straight.
 
The only vertical splitters I have seen that I would want to use are the ones where you are working at table height. But that’s exactly why many people prefer splitting horizontally. Sitting down and leaning over gets uncomfortable awfully quick. Repositioning a round vertically on the ground while bent over is a lot of work. Repositioning a round vertically on a table right in front of you while standing would probably be better than splitting horizontally.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
H/V splitters are the most commonly sold splitters today because of price. Thy are designed to allow splitting large and small wood with a compact light weight machine. They are a good alternative for a person needing to process a low volume wood a few times a year.

Horizontal splitters are be much more productive when equipped with log lift and out feed table but this makes them bulky, heavy, and costly.
Horizontal splitters when fully equipped need two people to operate to be most efficient because of the location of the log lift opposite the operator.

Vertical table mounted splitters are fairly common outside the US. They offer infeed, out feed tables, and log lift in a more compact design, with all operations with in easy reach of a single operator.
 
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H/V splitters are the most commonly sold splitters today because of price. Thy are designed to allow splitting large and small wood with a compact light weight machine. They are a good alternative for a person needing to process a low volume wood a few times a year.

Horizontal splitters are be much more productive when equipped with log lift
and out feed table but this makes them bulky, heavy, and costly.
Horizontal splitters when fully equipped need two people to operate to be most efficient because of the location of the log lift opposite the operator.

Vertical table mounted splitters are fairly common outside the US. They offer infeed, out feed tables, and log lift in a more compact design, with all operations with in easy reach of a single operator.

Or a strong operator ==c
 
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I have 2 H/V splitters and i like it both ways. I usually have big wood. I like whole trees cut to log lenth.6 to 9' long

We cut the logs to 18 in rounds. Any thing heavy gets picked up by a bpbcat with forks and put on the splitter on the vertical position. They get quartered up and put on pallets. I get like 6 pallets worth done i put the splitter in rhe horizontal position. With the same bobcat we lift the pallet to near waist height and park it next to the splitter and just pick up the quartered rounds and split them down. If the quartered round is big it gets split half, half falls into the cradle and the other half goes back on the pallet to be worked on
Theres not alot of bending over in this operation
 
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