How do you split giant rounds into quarters?

[Fifelaker]

One other thing I do is if they don't split in a few whacks is flip them over most of the time that works. Read the wood as my dad used to say.

I guess I figured out the 'flip-em over' trick myself for a few of the smaller logs, but your comment opens a new question - it is one thing to flip a 12-inch log to avoid a knot (read the wood - I like that line), but quite another just to move some of the monsters, let alone flip them over. Any tips on flipping these things? At my age, my back does not do as much as it once did.

No tricks maybe a crowbar once in a while my back hates it also but one of my old bosses said "put out don't put on" It also helps to have help

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

Not sure what you are using, but my recommend would be a Monster Maul. As others have said, if the Oak don't pop within the first two shots,, somethings wrong. Try not to split knots, etc. Try a different 'line' or flip the round over.

Now, on the Maple . . . large rounds of Hard Maple are ALMOST not worth the effort. Cut them as short as you can still make work in your firebox. Do NOT beat on them with a MonsterMaul if they don't give up within a couple hits. My arsenal then becomes 2 wedges, a 16# sledge, and a 12#. Unless yer John Henry you'll have to pace yourself. When you notice your aim/concentration begining to fail, switch to the 12#. When you can no longer swing that effectivly, the splitting is done for the day.

And if yer my age, yer gonna wake up the next day SURE that a bus ran over you :grrr:

But when you need the best wood for the coldest, longest burn, that Hard maple is gonna be Suhweeet!

If it's silver or Red maple, split it with the monster Maul.No matter what kind of Maple it is, get it off the ground and out of the precipitation. Maple rots quite quickly.

Welcome Aboard!!

 

[holland_patrick]

I'd just rent a splitter for the day...

 

[pyper]

I have my own 3 foot red oak that I've been working on for a few months. Too many other projects.

I do pretty much as others have said -- either just beat a wedge through, or chainsaw into it first, and then beat a wedge through.

More than one wedge at a time sometimes helps. So I pound one in, and then another in a second location, and then back and forth.

After my oak sat for a while, the wood has started to rot. Now wedges will sometimes pop back out, which is annoying. I really want to get things finished up soon.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Hello Forum!

I have been lurking and learning for over a year and I have absorbed an enormous amount from everyone, so let me start with a big thank you!!

Now I have a question that I have not seen addressed: on the Monday after Christmas my neighbor two doors down had a standing dead maple taken down. Based on what I learned from this forum, I stopped to chat with the tree guys when I took my dog for a walk and asked what he was going to do with the wood. Not only did he say he would be happy to give me that tree, but he swung open the truck and showed me a large oak they had worked on earlier that day. My first score I am new to splitting, but had 'practiced' on some downed trees from our October storm, maple and oak, but they were small, probably only about a foot across at the biggest, so they were just a whack and split. But with the maple rounds three feet across, I could not manage to quarter them. I am hoping you can give me some splitting pointers (manual only - I have found that I like splitting with a maul and have no interest in using a big splitter). I have the needed wedges and even when and bought one of those triangular 'bomb' wedges hoping I could bust them with that, but my arms gave out before the wood did. I ended up 'nibbling' around the edges to split them, which worked OK, but I want to get those nice quarters that I see you guys posting pictures of.

Oh, this has become important because today, the Monday after New Years, a neighbor on the other side had a 150 year old oak taken down. Again, took Ollie for a walk and chatted up the tree service, and wouldn't you know he dropped most of the wood on my front yard today! My guess is that I have about 4 cords between the two scores. I am looking forward to next Monday to see which of my neighbors is taking another tree down LOL If I luck out again, I should be all set for next year!

Any pointers or suggestions are appreciated.

Steven

Welcome to the forum Steven.

Good for you for getting this wood and also good for you for splitting it manually. Many of us have done that and I started doing it when I was just a kid. Most times with the big stuff we break out the wedges. Usually 2 wedges are all that is needed on logs of that size but it depends if there are any knots. You apparently have learned quite a bit already. Take it slow and enjoy the learning as you go. Don't try to be a he-man; just work at a steady pace. On maple I usually always try to split through the center on that size. Once you get it into 2 pieces, the rest will be much easier.

Too many think these big ones split too hard. What it appears to be is that they get used to a log splitting with one or two whacks but this size will need more. So what is the difference if you have to hit a few more times? At the end, you probably will do less swinging on the big ones vs the same amount of wood with smaller logs.

Keep us posted on your progress and we wish you luck.

 

[StuckInTheMuck]

Pages 20 and 21 have some information on splitting.

http://www.grandforest.us/TheAxeBook.pdf

The only thing I would add is to know where the head of the axe/maul/sledge hammer will end up if you miss or the head of the tool deflects off of a curved or small piece. If your hands are lower than the head of the tool at impact, a miss/deflection shouldn't be dangerous. If they are not, then the arc of the swing could take the cutting head toward your feet or shins. Little toe on my right foot learned that valuable lesson the other day. Fortunately it's still attached. Thought about taking pictures, but I guess without them, it didn't happen..

 

[lazeedan]

I have found if you noodle in a couple inches on the edge in a choice spot from reading the wood. Then drive a wedge in the cut you just made works well. Just not quite as nice as a splitter

 

[CTYank]

One other thing I do is if they don't split in a few whacks is flip them over most of the time that works. Read the wood as my dad used to say.

I guess I figured out the 'flip-em over' trick myself for a few of the smaller logs, but your comment opens a new question - it is one thing to flip a 12-inch log to avoid a knot (read the wood - I like that line), but quite another just to move some of the monsters, let alone flip them over. Any tips on flipping these things? At my age, my back does not do as much as it once did.

I chainsaw those. It's called noodling because the chips come out like noodles when you cut in that grain direction. Once I have them chainsawed into manageable pieces they get flipped over to the splitter. The axe is lonely.

You don't have to noodle, or rip, pieces all the way through. Sometimes just go deep enough to set some wedges, and a couple of hits per wedge will do it. Do read the wood, though.

The tool for saving your back while grabbing/maneuvering large pieces of wood is called a hookaroon/pickaroon. Just got one from LogRite a couple of months back and I LOVE it. 36" version makes it seem that you have arms 6 feet long, and prevents most bending to pick up. Was clearing some blow-downs recently with the curator at a nature preserve. Curator tried said hookaroon on some 200 lb slabs, and got right at home with it- grab/yank/haul while standing upright. AND keeping your hands out of pinch zones.

 

[woodjack]

...my kids are giving me grief - pretty safe to say that we have more wood than 99% of the houses in this suburban town - they are saying that I am getting weird.

You're kids are right. That's why you're here with us weirdos.
Don't forget to smell the wood when you split it. I like to lick now and then. Nothing like the pungent smell of oak in the morning.

 

[TreePointer]

As others have stated, those monster hard maple rounds can be really tough to split by hand regardless of what method you use.

I'd noodle them with a chainsaw or rent a vertical/horizontal splitter for a day.

As far as flipping them, my timberjack/cant hook has rolled and flipped some monsters.

 

[maxed_out]

Maple, if you can't afford to rent a splitter, just let them "rest" in this coldweather. Once they get good and frozen, whack them with your maul. Whole 'nuther world out there once they freeze. You are gonna be surprised how they can split when frozen.

 

[RNLA]

On the job site when I have to handle big wood I use the saw to make a groove in the face of the round. Then get the iron wedge and set it with a few taps deeply into the groove. Then a couple of full swings and it falls apart. If I do not think it will split that way then I just saw it into small pieces.

 

[PNWBurner]

I've found the conical wedges don't work so well in very large rounds. The traditional narrow type wedges work better.

It's good to have a few of both around though. There's nothing like pounding in your second (and last) wedge all the way and still not getting the round to split. Then it's time to break out the black powder!

A real monster round or one with twisted grain might take three wedges...

 

[amateur cutter]

Noodle, roll, noodle, quarter with the maul, stand up & split. Oh yea, PNW clutch cover helps a lot too. A C

 

[Maplewoodie]

So a few days after my first post, I have to say thank you to everyone. What a great, helpful group of people. If the weather holds out I will be trying out some of your suggestions this weekend - I can't wait to see how this goes. I will try to take some pictures and post my success.

 

[bubba3228]

This is how we did'r

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/78338/

I was wondering if anyone ever tried using a large hammer drill with a big chisel bit, something like a Hilti TE65. Anyone?

 

[snowleopard]

So far my wife has been supportive, but my kids are giving me grief - pretty safe to say that we have more wood than 99% of the houses in this suburban town - they are saying that I am getting weird.

Wife sounds like a keeper.

If you don't want to humiliate your children, why did you have them in the first place?

Get yourself a hat with earflaps, a milk crate, and a splitter. Set up operations in the front yard, and be sure to time them to coincide with the school bus passing by. Wave enthusiastically at any children that go by, especially if they know your children. If you can coerce your children into being part of the spitting operation, even better. Then you can nudge them, point to their friends, and wave.

And if you can get them to wear hats with earflaps while this is taking place, they will probably consent to being home-schooled thereafter. And then you and they will have even more time for driving around looking for free wood. Get an ugly truck for this process. What doesn't destroy them will make them stronger.

 

[Maplewoodie]

snowleopard - Have you been driving around my neighborhood? Because I live on a steep hill, the only relatively flat spot on my land is near the street - I actually stand in the street when I swing the maul. You bet I get a bunch of comments from everyone who is out driving or walking the dog. Pretty sure the neighbors wrote me off as a nut case last year when I stacked five cords in my front yard; now that I am out there splitting in the street, they are probably waiting for me to be hauled off to the looney bin! It is good to know there are other loonies out there. And just wait, once I get the splitting thing down, I am going to have to stack ten cords so I can get ahead by two years. Maybe I do belong in the nut house!!