How does the B-vent terminal cap fit?

[Corey]

OK - getting some parts together to install the heat n glow gas fireplace. I'm curious if anyone knows how the terminal cap is installed? The picture here:

http://www.hearthsidedistributors.com/Catalog/Termination-Caps-4-X-6-5-8

seems to show the cap without any type of thread lock connection. By contrast, the pipe sections:

http://www.hearthsidedistributors.com/Catalog/Pipe-Length-4-X-6-5-8

seem to show threads on both ends.

So the question is - does the terminal cap just slide on? Can I cut the pipe(s) [inner and outer] to the exact length I need to run through the wall, then just slide the cap on? Or do I have to get a factory pipe section which is nearly the exact length needed?

 

[DAKSY]

That's not B-Vent in the pics. It's Direct Vent (DV).
The cap slides on. there should be about 6 inches (max) of adjustability.
Basically, your vent needs to make it to the outer wall sheathing...
The cap should slide right over it & then the cap is screwed to the sheathing.
HTH...

 

[Corey]

Ok - thanks for the info! That is pretty much what I suspected, but I'm totally new to the 'gas' world. I called the pipe by the wrong term! I've got the install manual to make sure all the clearances and specs are met, but they left out this tidbit of info.

This 'jewel' is going in the basement mainly for aesthetics and a small bit of supplementary heat if needed. It will be a somewhat interesting install as it's going directly under the masonry fireplace upstairs. The rental center assures me their concrete coring drill will vacuum-stick to the concrete and easily make it through the inner and outer foundation wall. Keep the fingers crossed!

PS - one last Q : Can a guy cut the pipe to the length required, then slide the vent cap on - or does it have to be a factory finished length within 6" of the actual wall thickness?

 

[Corey]

Do you think it will be that bad? The unit is essentially sealed so there shouldn't be any actual 'cold draft'. I see where the unit could get a little cold and have some convective / conductive heat loss, but a 30 degree fireplace in a 55 degree unoccupied basement is probably going to be tolerable. I considered the no-vent units, but concerns over indoor air pollution, smell and CO kept me away. Plus they seem to be lower heat output than DV.

Also, nevermind on my PS above. I guess Heat-n-Glo is using some special "SL-D series" vent pipe. The terminal cap is twist-lock and they use a telescoping pipe section.

 

[jtp10181]

Any new Heat & Glo fireplace will use the HHT slimline pipe, not simpson duravent products. If a dealer sells you simpson products, it will not fit onto the unit properly. It can be forced on, but you void any warranty and the UL listing.

If you are getting a stove, those do come by default setup for the simpson pipe.

Don't listen to zeta, he is constantly posting non-sense jibberish on here.

It seems you are looking at installing a direct vent unit (not B-Vent). This is a sealed system and the fireplace will not directly leak any air into the home if installed properly. You do want to make sure the walls behind the fireplace are insulated and sealed the same as the rest of the walls in the house / room. You wont see the wall but we always insulate and drywall to make it air tight. If air leaks into the house behind the fireplace, it will come right though the holes in outer wrap and into the room.

When not in use the fireplace may be a little cool. So you might get some thermal radiation, but no drafts. If you get an intellifire unit, make sure you have a way to manually turn on the pilot so you can keep the fireplace warmer. Otherwise if you get a standing pilot, the pilot burning will keep the fireplace from getting too cold.

As for the cutting of the pipe... no you cannot cut any pipe lenghts except for special slip sections designed as such. The cap kit will come with an adjustable piece as you already said.