How much to sharpen

[Stelcom66]

The maul I have in the photo (on the ground) is I think 8 lbs, it's the one I use most of the time. Should it be very sharp or somewhat blunt? The one upright I think is 12 lbs, when I bought that it was not sharp at all so I assume it should stay that way.

 

[Sodbuster]

I'd say you want it sharp, but not a razors edge with would be a "thin" edge that wouln't hold up.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I would think most items would require an edge, unless you purchase from a specialty store. I guess liability, transit, and handling might limit the sharpness from the factory. I put a sharp edge on mine and I figure it helps (?????) with psi entering the round by force of the weight of the maul.

 

[CincyBurner]

The importance of sharpness (imo) depends on its use/ action.
If just splitting, you are using the tool (axe or splitting maul) as a wedge so not critical; however, if using axe (or saw tooth) for actually cutting wood (cross grain), then it is very important.
The wedge should be sharp enough to "set" into the wood so that the force of blow can then translate into driving wood apart, which is a segue to splitting technique - "read" the face of the cut surface the wood. Avoiding knots, look and aim for for cracks that are forming as wood is drying for easier splitting.

 

[Stelcom66]

As I thought - sharp but not razor edge sharp since I am using the tool for splitting. With the larger stumps of course I'm first splitting them with wedges, then as the pieces get small enough I'll usually use the 8 lb maul. I do tend to take advantage of existing cracks.

I had a manually operated 10 ton hydraulic splitter but it broke. Worked OK, but sometimes too time consuming IMO and I tended to just use the other tools. Ironically it seemed best for smaller pieces that were hard to balance upright.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I didn't want to comment on your need for a splitter, given the size of your rounds in the photo. BUT since you mentioned your splitter, TSC has a fast 25 ton model on sale- today is the last day for $200 off. Its a goog price and lots of tonnage and TSC"s great warranty. For the money, this is what I would get if I didn't already have one.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-25-ton-log-splitter-126151799--1?cm_vc=-10005

 

[Stelcom66]

I didn't want to comment on your need for a splitter, given the size of your rounds in the photo. BUT since you mentioned your splitter, TSC has a fast 25 ton model on sale- today is the last day for $200 off. Its a goog price and lots of tonnage and TSC"s great warranty. For the money, this is what I would get if I didn't already have one.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-25-ton-log-splitter-126151799--1?cm_vc=-10005

Ya know I was looking at that in the flyer yesterday - that certainly is a good price.

 

[matto]

I have what looks like the same maul. It bounced off the wood all the time and was really frustrating.

I bought a Fiskars x27 (lightweight splitting axe) that I use for most of the wood, and the Fiskars 8 pound maul for the tough stuff. They're fantastic. I'll never use that red maul again.

The fiskers maul is not just sharper from the factory, but the blade shape is more concave so it enters the wood better instead of bouncing off. Even if it doesn't split the wood it usually goes in solidly and you can hit it with a sledge after that.

 

[Jags]

Axe - cutting (felling), Maul - splitting. Two different tools. Axe - sharp. Maul, not so much. Obviously there are variations of all of them, but that is the simple distinction. I wouldn’t get too worked up about a maul having a razor edge. The same does not apply with my axe.

 

[spoon059]

The maul I have in the photo (on the ground) is I think 8 lbs, it's the one I use most of the time. Should it be very sharp or somewhat blunt? The one upright I think is 12 lbs, when I bought that it was not sharp at all so I assume it should stay that way.

12 lbs maul...? My shoulder hurts at the thought of that! I've used mauls in the past (6 lbs and 8lbs) and none of them were sharp and all of them got the job done. I broke my last maul about 3 years ago and replaced it with the Fiskers splitting axe. The Fiskars is much sharper and lighter, but worked better in my opinion. I've never even thought about sharpening a maul before...

 

[Stelcom66]

Seems like half the time the my big maul also bounces off the wood, and yea - it takes some work to just lift it! I can't say it was one of my better investments. The other maul I have may be 6 lbs, it is in fact sharper (when new) than the 8 lb. I should bring that out to the wood today.

I do have an axe, may be using that soon as my son & daughter in law gave me a bunch of small in diameter but nice hardwood. Will probably need to rig something to hold them up, maybe several at a time.

Sort of off subject - speaking if axes, if I have a piece or two of leftover 2 x 3 or 4 (pine) I use the axe to split it into kindling. Is it OK to burn that, I don't think a standard stud is treated in any way, is it? I know the pine may be concern, but maybe after several years is stud form maybe not.

 

[cckw]

My Gransfors maul came very sharp. I would think it only cuts the first inch, then it is the wedge function. But being sharp leaves a little more momentum for the split.

 

[Stelcom66]

I have what looks like the same maul. It bounced off the wood all the time and was really frustrating.

I bought a Fiskars x27 (lightweight splitting axe) that I use for most of the wood and the Fiskars 8 pound maul for the tough stuff. They're fantastic. I'll never use that red maul again.

The fiskers maul is not just sharper from the factory, but the blade shape is more concave so it enters the wood better instead of bouncing off. Even if it doesn't split the wood it usually goes in solidly and you can hit it with a sledge after that.

I am sure glad you mentioned the lightweight splitting axe. I brought mine out this weekend, I haven't used it for a while and I couldn't believe how well it worked. Once the wood was down to size, I do believe the net result was less time and effort. If the wood was too large, the axe could then be hit as if it was a wedge.

 

[Stelcom66]

My Gransfors maul came very sharp. I would think it only cuts the first inch, then it is the wedge function. But being sharp leaves a little more momentum for the split.

I do believe the maul should not be dull. I sharpened my 8 lb and I think performance improved. It was tending to bounce off the wood like the 12 lb maul.

 

[cckw]

A splitting axe shouldn't be used as a wedge. On the vast majority, only the cutting edge is hardened so it will mushroom the back of the axe. A maul is hardened front and back. My old maul was 8lb and my gransfors (photos on another thread) is 5.5. I do better with the lighter maul probably due to getting it to higher speed before contact. But I also use a regular 3.5lb axe for easier stuff. But I never pound on it. I don't pound on my maul either. I pull it our and reswing. sinde note: I was working with a friend who does hydraulic on everything and he was impressed how fast you can work by choosing the maul over the hydraulic on alot of these.

 

[jetsam]

I like to keep my mauls reasonably sharp. Not knife-sharp, or even axe-sharp, but I like the edge to be pointy rather than blunt. An excessively blunt maul still works, but bounces more often and can require harder whacks to get a split started.

If you sharpen it up like a cutting tool the edge will just crumple up anyway, so I think it's best to shoot for "pointy".

 

[Stelcom66]

A splitting axe shouldn't be used as a wedge. On the vast majority, only the cutting edge is hardened so it will mushroom the back of the axe. A maul is hardened front and back. My old maul was 8lb and my gransfors (photos on another thread) is 5.5. I do better with the lighter maul probably due to getting it to higher speed before contact. But I also use a regular 3.5lb axe for easier stuff. But I never pound on it. I don't pound on my maul either. I pull it our and reswing. sinde note: I was working with a friend who does hydraulic on everything and he was impressed how fast you can work by choosing the maul over the hydraulic on alot of these.

The only time I used the ax as a wedge is when it got stuck, hope to avoid that. Maybe better to try to pull it out. I had a hydraulic manual 10 ton splitter that broke. It was OK for some stubborn, odd shaped pieces but overall not really worth the extra time IMO.