How to clean Econoburn 150?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

jpelizza

Member
Hearth Supporter
Jan 2, 2010
66
Upstate NY
I have Econoburn 150. I need to clean heat exchanger/turbulators. Wondering if anyone has good pictures or better yet a video of how to do it. I've looked up what I could so far but not finding anything great. My biggest concern is cutting the insulation correctly so I don't have to replace that.
One other thing at times my flue door is sometimes hard to open could that be due heat exchanger/turbulators need cleaning or unrelated?

Thanks for looking
 
I have Econoburn 150. I need to clean heat exchanger/turbulators. Wondering if anyone has good pictures or better yet a video of how to do it. I've looked up what I could so far but not finding anything great. My biggest concern is cutting the insulation correctly so I don't have to replace that.
One other thing at times my flue door is sometimes hard to open could that be due heat exchanger/turbulators need cleaning or unrelated?

Thanks for looking
When I bought my 100 a few years back , there was a cd that came with the manual on how to clean it. I'll bet if you call and talk to Dale or Mark at the factory they will send you one. Bruce
 
  • Like
Reactions: flyingcow
Prior to pulling things apart I would burn a small hot fire to maybe clean off the damper door. are the turbolators hard to move up and down? I find that if I do lots of idling the turbs seem to get dirtier
 
You have to cut insulation to clean it? Really?


Yes really, It is one area that really needs improvement. It is a one time cutting, after that it just gets folded back out of the way but it is still not a the best. I suggested that rigid insulation panel get used in that area that could be lifted off. Apparently my suggestion was not liked as the same setup is still being used.

gg
 
I have Econoburn 150. I need to clean heat exchanger/turbulators. Wondering if anyone has good pictures or better yet a video of how to do it. I've looked up what I could so far but not finding anything great. My biggest concern is cutting the insulation correctly so I don't have to replace that.
One other thing at times my flue door is sometimes hard to open could that be due heat exchanger/turbulators need cleaning or unrelated?

Thanks for looking


I have found that the turbulator assembly can be remove without taking off the back flue plate. I take off the top cover only, tie the lever in the up position. You can then remove the two top bolts in the linkage, one on each side. Put the lever in the down position and work the turbulator assembly out as a unit. It is much faster than removing the back plate. I would only do that now if there was a gasket leak.

Brush the tubes and vacuum out the ash from the top of the tube area and reassemble. If you are burning without storage you might have a creosote layer to try and remove. If that is the case it will be much more involved than brushing the tubes.

The first year I burned without storage. At times the bypass was hard to open. As weather warms you will have more issues with that unless you reduce your wood loads.

gg
 
thanks for replys, dale from econoburn is going to send me dvd so hopefully i'll be able to clean it with no problems now between dvd and posts.

thanks again
 
I have found that the turbulator assembly can be remove without taking off the back flue plate. I take off the top cover only, tie the lever in the up position. You can then remove the two top bolts in the linkage, one on each side. Put the lever in the down position and work the turbulator assembly out as a unit. It is much faster than removing the back plate. I would only do that now if there was a gasket leak.

Brush the tubes and vacuum out the ash from the top of the tube area and reassemble. If you are burning without storage you might have a creosote layer to try and remove. If that is the case it will be much more involved than brushing the tubes.

The first year I burned without storage. At times the bypass was hard to open. As weather warms you will have more issues with that unless you reduce your wood loads.

gg


thanks for post, yeah i have figured out when its warmer out i do reduce wood loads so its not on idle as much. i don't have storage yet so i think until i get storage i'm going to just be dilligent now on cleaning it often. thanks for info.
 
I just did a cleaning today. I would recommend Attempting the top cover only removal if your back plate is sealed good. Dale can also give you part numbers for the proper size flue brush for your boiler.

I found these on Grainger but I have not tried them. It might come in handy for removing stubborn layer but I am not sure.

(broken link removed)

Empyre makes a scraper for there boiler tube cleaning but I have not found one yet.

gg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.