How to install safe flooring under existing wood stove.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

Midgetgerm

New Member
Sep 10, 2023
4
UK
Hi
We have moved into rented accommodation with an existing wood stove. The floor under the stove is dire, rough concrete and patched paint., it's an eyesore. The landlord will not allow us to move the stove to add a nicer flooring underneath but he's happy for us to make it nicer somehow.
Would those little mosaic tiles that come on sheets be suitable underneath a wood fire? I could fit those round the legs nicely but would they be safe? If anyone has any ideas about could be cut and fitted around the legs of the stove which would be safe I would very much apprciate your advice. In the UK.
 
You can use tile albeit I would be careful as tile can get damaged when heavy items are dropped on it. Are you planning to use the stove or it is just for decoration? There are plenty of tiles that are rated for heavy traffic this are more durable.
 
Yes, it will be in use daily. I'm not very good at tiling so I was wondering about those sheets of little tiles would be OK? Like this ?
[Hearth.com] How to install safe flooring under existing wood stove.
 
Yes, it will be in use daily. I'm not very good at tiling so I was wondering about those sheets of little tiles would be OK? Like this ?View attachment 315262
I think those would work. Remove enough for the leg to sit in and then slice the mat to the hole so you can get it atriums the leg. Do have enough room to work under the stove?
 
I'd be entertained to just move the stove long enough to do the job anyway, confident I could get it back in place without the landlord noticing. It's just so much easier that way, you only really need to move it over one tile width (a foot?) to do the work, then slide it back.

But if you're not so bold, next choice would be to block it up on cribbing sufficient to let me remove one leg at a time. Move the blocking around as needed until tile is under all legs. Might involve some trimming of the mesh backing, so that you're laying 6x12 inch groups instead of the usual 12 x 12 inch.
 
Ceramic tile is perfectly safe under a stove. Set and grout the tile with mortar of some type as is typical and not some sort of glue.
 
  • Like
Reactions: begreen
At some point in time won’t the stovepipe have to come off for a cleaning? That would be a good time to tile.
I haven’t had the pipes off my stoves since about 2016. I clean bottom-up with a SootEater thru the bypass door.
 
I haven’t had the pipes off my stoves since about 2016. I clean bottom-up with a SootEater thru the bypass door.

So without removing the pipe how do you clean the sweepings from the inside of the cat dome? Do you remove the cat each time?

I believe that a reasonably good job can be done from below with a flexible shopvac hose through the bypass but some folks disagree.
 
So without removing the pipe how do you clean the sweepings from the inside of the cat dome? Do you remove the cat each time?

I believe that a reasonably good job can be done from below with a flexible shopvac hose through the bypass but some folks disagree.
Yeah, I remove the cat every time. It's so much easier to slide a combustor out and back in with new gasket, than to muscle apart my telescoping pipes connected to flexible liner.

I spend some significant time and effort with a gloved hand and a bent nozzle on the ash vac, sweeping the sweepings out of the cat chamber area and off the gasket. It's a PITA, but again, easier than fighting with telescoping pipe that never seems to work as designed after running screws through it the first time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
I think those would work. Remove enough for the leg to sit in and then slice the mat to the hole so you can get it atriums the leg. Do have enough room to work under the stove?
Only about 2"...I'll follow your advice and slice mat to the leg...
 
Only about 2"...I'll follow your advice and slice mat to the leg...
That’s really going to be difficult. You can’t slide the tiles very well on the thin set. Maybe if you mixed it a bit dry and laid it smooth under the stove with a long stick you have a shot. But in under the stove won’t look like the rest I’m guessing. But it really doesn’t need to.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
That’s really going to be difficult. You can’t slide the tiles very well on the thin set. Maybe if you mixed it a bit dry and laid it smooth under the stove with a long stick you have a shot. But in under the stove won’t look like the rest I’m guessing. But it really doesn’t need to.
I'm thinking I might measure underneath, cut a piece and fix that and then work outwards........
No, that won't work because I'd have to match four sides up to the centre and to each other....:(:rolleyes:
 
I'm pretty certain in this case I would just lift up the stove 1/4" and slide the tiles under each foot, one at a time.
 
And if I’m lifting I’m going bigger tiles. Not a mosaic.
 
I don't understand why it's even being debated to do it a different way.
1. User showed mosaic tile as preference. Sliding mosaic tile around on thinset with 1/4" headroom is harder than you might think.
2. If lifting the stove, it has to be blocked or supported on something that's going to be somewhat in the way, you'll need to move your blocking around for each leg, unless you have a friend willing to stand there and hold up one corner of a 500# stove, one at a time, long enough for you to do all of this work. See my post #5.
 
1. User showed mosaic tile as preference. Sliding mosaic tile around on thinset with 1/4" headroom is harder than you might think.
2. If lifting the stove, it has to be blocked or supported on something that's going to be somewhat in the way, you'll need to move your blocking around for each leg, unless you have a friend willing to stand there and hold up one corner of a 500# stove, one at a time, long enough for you to do all of this work. See my post #5.

I've done it using a hydraulic car jack, it was not difficult.
 
I've done it using a hydraulic car jack, it was not difficult.
Of course. No one said it is.

But don't be sticking your fingers under the legs of a stove supported by any hydraulic jack, use blocking as suggested in post #5. You'll need to move it around as you work, one or two legs at a time, as the blocking will still be blocking part of the area where you're laying tile.

Also, put plywood between jack and already-laid tile, to prevent distortion of thinset, under point-loading of jack. Not difficult, but takes some awareness and care to do a good job.
 
Considering this is just for cosmetics I'd be looking at alternatives like a painted sheet of metal, or a sheet of stainless steel. If I wanted to tile it, there would be no question about moving the stove, laying the tile properly, and then moving the stove back onto the finished hearth.
 
Considering this is just for cosmetics I'd be looking at alternatives like a painted sheet of metal, or a sheet of stainless steel. If I wanted to tile it, there would be no question about moving the stove, laying the tile properly, and then moving the stove back onto the finished hearth.

Landlord told them they can't move the stove. I guess technically lifting it to tile under it is moving it too.
 
I know, so figure out how to deal with the landlord's concerns. Have a pro move it and reconnect. Or sign a liability statement, or just paint the floor in a tile pattern under the stove.
 
  • Like
Reactions: EbS-P
Considering this is just for cosmetics I'd be looking at alternatives like a painted sheet of metal, or a sheet of stainless steel. If I wanted to tile it, there would be no question about moving the stove, laying the tile properly, and then moving the stove back onto the finished hearth.
yes tiling is a pain in the neck with the stove in the way and he dont even own the house. also the SS sheet can be taken when he leaves
 
Ceramic tile is perfectly safe under a stove. Set and grout the tile with mortar of some type as is typical and not some sort of glue.
I will be installing a new stove over ceramic tile soon as well. In this case, it's ceramic tile with 1/2" backer board under that, and standard 3/4" wood flooring under that. Is the heat any sort of issue with the expanding and contracting and the temperature ranges, or any concern with the combustibles under the tile/backer board? In my case we are installing a BK Ashford 30 with the standard legs and ashpan underneath. Don't want to sidetrack this thread but wondered if it was relevant. I know there are mats available but I thought they were mainly for wood floors and such. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
I will be installing a new stove over ceramic tile soon as well. In this case, it's ceramic tile with 1/2" backer board under that, and standard 3/4" wood flooring under that. Is the heat any sort of issue with the expanding and contracting and the temperature ranges, or any concern with the combustibles under the tile/backer board? In my case we are installing a BK Ashford 30 with the standard legs and ashpan underneath. Don't want to sidetrack this thread but wondered if it was relevant. I know there are mats available but I thought they were mainly for wood floors and such. Thanks.
I believe, you should check, that the ashford only requires ember protection under the stove which is satisfied by grouted tile. Even a layer of sheet metal would be safe over bare wood.

Tile over 1/2” backer board over 3/4” plywood is a very reasonable subfloor so long as the structure below the plywood is sufficient to carry the stove weight.