I have a new to me Dolmar 111i saw and I want to be sure I get a correct chain for the drive sprocket. The old bar it came with shows 3/8 pitch chain but I see this saw could have also come with a .325 pitch chain. So before I buy a new bar and chain I want to be sure I get the correct pitch. Is there a way to measure the saw sprocket or should I wrap the 3/8 chain around the drive sprocket and check that the chain lines up?
How to measure correct chainsaw pitch on saw?
- Thread starter NoPaint
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jetsam
Minister of Fire
Edit: Misread the question. Hit the sprocket with a wire brush and look for numbers. If there aren't any, take the c-clip off and flip the sprocket over and look on that side. It should be stamped. (Keep a hold of that clip, they like to go flying if you just pop them with a screwdriver.)
Check it for damage or wear while you're messing with it- sprockets are a consumeable item just like bars and chains. New sprockets are pretty cheap, though.
My Dolmar came new with an Oregon sprocket, and Oregon sprockets are clearly labeled.
Below is the original thing I said, which is how to check a chain
Lay the chain flat (on a bar is good). Measure from the center of a rivet to the center of the second one over. Divide by 2. Tada!
.375 is 3/8. A little less is probably .325, a little more is probably .404.
They make tools to do this, but you can do it with a tape measure. If you have calipers, they work great.
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/findingtherightsawchainforyou
Get the right gauge too!
Check it for damage or wear while you're messing with it- sprockets are a consumeable item just like bars and chains. New sprockets are pretty cheap, though.
My Dolmar came new with an Oregon sprocket, and Oregon sprockets are clearly labeled.
Below is the original thing I said, which is how to check a chain
Lay the chain flat (on a bar is good). Measure from the center of a rivet to the center of the second one over. Divide by 2. Tada!
.375 is 3/8. A little less is probably .325, a little more is probably .404.
They make tools to do this, but you can do it with a tape measure. If you have calipers, they work great.
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/findingtherightsawchainforyou
Get the right gauge too!
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SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
Generally speaking the guide bar will have all the relevant information stamped towards the mounting end. I found out the hard way that you cannot put a .325 chain on a saw with a 3/8 sprocket. Chain gauge is really only relevant to the guide bar, not the drive sprocket.
If you are selecting a new chain and bar combo for the saw I would go with a .325 chain in .50 gauge in whatever length you want, probably 14-18" I'd guess. When putting the chain on if it doesn't go, you have a 3/8 sprocket. If it works you have a .325, which is really the better way to go unless you are a professional logger.
If you are selecting a new chain and bar combo for the saw I would go with a .325 chain in .50 gauge in whatever length you want, probably 14-18" I'd guess. When putting the chain on if it doesn't go, you have a 3/8 sprocket. If it works you have a .325, which is really the better way to go unless you are a professional logger.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
Why would you buy the wrong chain and then try it on the sprocket after? They're clearly marked. (Though if you buy one of both sprocket and throw them in your field sharpening kit, it won't matter as it takes only a few seconds to switch.)
3/8 is very common and not better or worse than .325 as far as cutting. When sharpening, I prefer 3/8 (no need to switch file sizes halfway through the chain, and a regular 3/16 grinding wheel works).
The Chain Police haven't stopped me and asked to see my Logger ID card so far, so that part has been okay also.
3/8 is very common and not better or worse than .325 as far as cutting. When sharpening, I prefer 3/8 (no need to switch file sizes halfway through the chain, and a regular 3/16 grinding wheel works).
The Chain Police haven't stopped me and asked to see my Logger ID card so far, so that part has been okay also.
I must have been tired last night because I should have just asked "will the chains obviously interchange?" Thanks for letting me know that they would not interchange. I have 3/8" on both my Dolmar 111i and Makita DCS540 as verified by using the old chains. Ordering new 3/8 now. Thanks again.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I didn't know the saw had a 3/8 drive sprocket on it because Husqvarna external clutches obscure the sprocket. I just assumed the saw would have the original drive sprocket, but it had been swapped to 3/8 before I bought the saw used.Why would you buy the wrong chain and then try it on the sprocket after? They're clearly marked. (Though if you buy one of both sprocket and throw them in your field sharpening kit, it won't matter as it takes only a few seconds to switch.)
3/8 is very common and not better or worse than .325 as far as cutting. When sharpening, I prefer 3/8 (no need to switch file sizes halfway through the chain, and a regular 3/16 grinding wheel works).
The Chain Police haven't stopped me and asked to see my Logger ID card so far, so that part has been okay also.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
Nothing wrong with keeping a couple sizes onhand. They cost less than a chain (a lot less if you buy the no name ones) and switch out in a few seconds (unless you ping that damn clip into orbit, then possibly longer )
My 261c came with 0.325 chain (18”). Last fall i was cutting some thick brush around several big rocks. It crossed my mind to go back to the house and swap the chains. I have a 16” beat up chain from my 360. Good thing I did not bother since that one is 3/8. Would that even fit on the sprocket?
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
It makes a hell of a noise
i loaned my 026 to a very good friend at the time...
it came back with a different chain on it.I went to use it and as soon as i tried to cut it was horrible.
Buddy is pretty deaf...
was a .325 sprocket with a 3/8 chain.
Years back I bought a 026 at a estate garage sale. They had a tag on it for fifty bucks. I picked the saw up and was looking at it pulled the cord felted good. Guy came over and said it was his dads saw and he had passed. He said it runs but something is wrong with it. I fired it up and throttled it up. Paid the guy took it home and put and new sprocket and the correct 325 chain and it was good to go. Someone had put a 3/8 chain on it also. A buddy of mine still has the saw and uses it a lot.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
Chews up the sprocket and the chain too.
You can fix the chain with a file and some patience, best to replace the sprocket though.
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SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
Narrower kerf, less parasitic power loss, and lighter saw. I love the tiny 1/4" micro profile chain my my MS150. I felled a 14" DBH tamarack using that saw the other day. I am looking at the Echo CS 1511T pretty hard for another tiny saw, but it comes with 3/8 low profile from the factory and I would definitely change it out for 1/4 like my Stihl has. I could probably fell any tree under 20" DBH with that MS150 and some patience. It would be quicker with my Husky 460, but I don't drag that boat anchor out unless I have to!
I am not sure about the ma150. My ms170 is good for limbing and anything below 10-12”. Anything bigger and it becomes slow going....., the 261 comes out.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
The MS170 weighs a lot more, so definitely not worth it. I can get more work done going it slow with a lighter saw. The MS150 weighs 5.7 lbs and the Echo CS2511t weighs 5.2 lbs, both 25cc top handle saws.
Interesting. I find the 170 feather light. 5.7lbs that is light. Less bar correct.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
If you like narrow, you might be interested in my new .070 Kerf I am trying out on my Echo!
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I was playing with that weed wacker today and found that the output shaft is 3/8-24 forward thread.... and I was thinking about arbors because it had come to my notice that my angle grinder had the same arbor as my circle saw, and I had told myself NO on that idea several times.. . anyway my old circle saw blades all have 5/8 arbors... so I got me a 5/8 stainless washer, drilled the middle to 5/16, tapped it to 3/8-24, spun it on, dropped in the saw blade... the only parts in there that aren't stock is the washer and the old sawblade.
I ran it some after I stopped laughing... it's fairly dangerous but the bamboo HATES it
(I shouldn't say it was AFTER I stopped laughing, I was laughing all the way out the door and probably laughed even harder on the way back in.. )
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Using blades like this is common here. Your steel toe boots will not protect you though if that blade comes flying.If you like narrow, you might be interested in my new .070 Kerf I am trying out on my Echo!
View attachment 275884
I was playing with that weed wacker today and found that the output shaft is 3/8-24 forward thread.... and my old circle saw blades all have 5/8 arbors... so I got me a 5/8 stainless washer, drilled the middle to 5/16, tapped it to 3/8-24, spun it on, dropped in the saw blade... the only parts in there that aren't stock is the washer and the old sawblade.
I ran it some after I stopped laughing... it's fairly dangerous but the bamboo HATES it
(I shouldn't say it was AFTER I stopped laughing, I was laughing all the way out the door and probably laughed even harder on the way back in.. )
jetsam
Minister of Fire
It's held on there by the grace of 1/32" of nylon inside of a nylon locknut!
Aww, I thought I had an original redneck yard tool there...
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
Be careful, I've seen several videos with similar saws, but the comments all say that the circular saw blades just don't handle the high RPM or hard objects very well. I bet it is awesome though, especially for dealing with saplings and other material under 3". I wouldn't mind a setup like that for clearing the several sapling thickets in our woods.If you like narrow, you might be interested in my new .070 Kerf I am trying out on my Echo!
View attachment 275884
I was playing with that weed wacker today and found that the output shaft is 3/8-24 forward thread.... and I was thinking about arbors because it had come to my notice that my angle grinder had the same arbor as my circle saw, and I had told myself NO on that idea several times.. . anyway my old circle saw blades all have 5/8 arbors... so I got me a 5/8 stainless washer, drilled the middle to 5/16, tapped it to 3/8-24, spun it on, dropped in the saw blade... the only parts in there that aren't stock is the washer and the old sawblade.
I ran it some after I stopped laughing... it's fairly dangerous but the bamboo HATES it
(I shouldn't say it was AFTER I stopped laughing, I was laughing all the way out the door and probably laughed even harder on the way back in.. )
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I don't know if the MS 170 uses the same cutting equipment as the 150/151, but the 5.7 lb rating is without the bar or chain. I run it with the same 12" B&C setup as my pole pruner, which is nice.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
You know how a circle saw can grab thin materials, especially at low RPM when it's not spun up all the way? Same deal, but now the force is lateral. And I could definitely see that saw blade losing teeth on a rock...
I did try it in wood. It's an el cheapo blade retired due to dullness (and my reluctance to sharpen carbide indoors). It cuts better than you would think, but feels like it has less oomph than a Skil saw- and such a tool would need more oomph for deep cuts because the blade is always going to be crooked in the kerf.
I have an old 80(?) tooth osb blade (one of those $5 specials without any carbide on the teeth) that I may swap in. Probably work just as well or better on bamboo and be much safer. Though less hilarious to look at. That 24 tooth blade cracks me up on a weed wacker!
I'll put the string back on it before spring, don't want the wife to start using that thing. :/
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