how to remove Selkirk DSA ?

[RustyShackleford]

Does anyone know how the "dripless smokepipe adapter" (DSA or DSAC) connects to
a Selkirk chimney ? It's a 20 year-old chimney, SSII, but I imagine it's similar now.
(The DSA is a thing that sticks down about 14" from the ceiling support box, usually
with a telescoping connection to a piece of single-wall stovepipe that slips over it).

I want to trim mine off to about 2-3", so that I can slip double-wall stovepipe over it
and have the end of the double-wall fit up snug to the ceiling support box. (This has
been recommended by people here and well as technical people at various vendors).
I could just do this with metal snips with it in place. But it'd sure be easier to remove
it and use a band saw or even a reciprocating saw.

It doesn't seem to want to budge. At least one person told me that it was dropped into
the top of the ceiling support box before the chimney pipe was installed, and thus it's not
going anywhere - so I need to trim it "in place". But it seems like I've read or heard
elsewhere of some sort of "twist lock" system. I've grabbed the thing and tried to twist
hard, and no sign of movement (which makes me happy, in a way, after reading about
the flimsy connection of the Simpson CC-C). And maybe me, or the person I'm recalling,
was in fact talking about the Simpson adapter.

Anyhow, if anyone can shed some light ... Otherwise I'll just trim it in place. Thanks.

 

[JayD]

Well I have this set-up in my shop it is {twist lock} I used a fairly sharp chisel on a 45% and gave it a good whack with a hammer to lock it in place. Try this in reverse smack it up by the twist lock. If you can't get it off, Mark it and cut with a saber saw with fine Bi-metal blade right were it hangs.

 

[daryl]

Your best bet is too cut it in place.Your single wall adpt twist locks into the first section of class A and that is up inside your support box. You would have to lift your chimney out of the support box too unlock the single wall adpt from the chimney and I do not think you want too go there just too cut it down.
On a different subject did you get your chimney clearance problems corrected?

 

[RustyShackleford]

Your best bet is too cut it in place.Your single wall adpt twist locks into the first section of class A and that is up inside your support box. You would have to lift your chimney out of the support box too unlock the single wall adpt from the chimney and I do not think you want too go there just too cut it down.

Thanks, that's what I've decided too, after reading about using a chisel to lock/unlock the thing;
best to leave well enough alone. I can cut most of it with a reciprocating saw, maybe all of it,
and finish up with metal snips. I wonder how much I should leave projecting ? It depends
on exactly how far the 45-degree elbow I use (for the offset) will slip onto to thing, and I haven't
even decided for sure whether to use Simpson or Selkirk. But I guess 2" should be plenty and
either should allow that, so maybe I'll just cut off to 2".

On a different subject did you get your chimney clearance problems corrected?

I think you refer to the clearance to the loft railing ? I'm not real worried about that,
give my 20+ year experience of good-as-is with the Dutchwest and the supposedly cooler
flue gasses of the BK. But I will address it at some point. Leaning towards the notion of
scalloping out the 2x6 atop the railing.

My BIGGEST issue now (and I have another thread on it), is how far the back of the stove
sits from the cinderblock wall, and thus how far it sticks out into the room. I really want
to minimize this distance, but there's an issue of proximity to the rear wall confusing the
thermostat.