How to securely attach chimney chase cover to the brick of masonry chimneys?

[hiba]

Short story: woodpecker made noise on top of chimney which is annoying, the real issue is that the chase cover move a little bit. I plan to go up and push it back to its original position. But is it more complicated than that? for example where is the screw to securely attach chase cover to brick?

Long story:

I heard this noise yesterday from the chimney flute :

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When I got outside I saw the woodpecker on top of chimney. It flew away then come back a few minutes later. While it's annoying, my main concern is the discovery of Chimney Chase Cover dislocation, please see picture here, the gap caused by dislocation is marked as 1:

http://imgur.com/a/Kzt4E

We had high wind recently (in direction from 1 to 2) which might explain why the corner 1 of chase cover is lifted and pushed toward 2. So far there is no raindrop or water leak i can tell inside the house. I am thinking going up to the roof.

My action plan:
Step 1: push the Chimney Chase Cover toward to 1 and make it fit tight.
Step 2:
option a:
use "Lead Screw Anchor", something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/b/N-5yc1v/Ntk-All/Ntt-Lead+Screw+Anchor?Ntx=mode+matchall&NCNI-5 , drill a hole in brick, push anchor into brick, drill a hole in the metal, add crush washer, then drill screw into anchor. The screw in the anchor will make anchor expand and hold tightly inside the brick.

option b: someone mentioned using "clip on nuts" to pin the pan to the brick. But I am not exactly sure the feasibility
https://www.amazon.com/Clip-On-Nuts/b?ie=UTF8&node=6826021011&tag=hearthamazon-20

Step 3: Where I am up there, I may apply some sealant/filler to seal the seam, and spray ChimneySaver water repellent. I have no clear idea for this step, I am open to suggestion.

Is this action plan feasible? or I just over simplify it?

My question.

1) should there be any bolt to fasten the Chimney Chase Cover? I watch this video (

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), this guy use clue then screw on the side, but he attach it to wood, and mine is attached directly to the brick of masonry chimneys. From the picture I took (and also binocular from ground), i can't see any screw/bolt/nail on the 3" skirt (that fits over the chimney). And the screw/bolt/nail can't be on the top either considered it's main purpose is to avoid water. But is there any possibility that it just cover like this without any bolt to fasten it, and it's normal and acceptable?

btw, I found ths picture online, http://www.chimneysweepstn.com/uploads/2/0/4/5/20454447/1951559_orig.jpg. it seems like it have same setup as mine except it has two bolt drill in half way to hold the chase cover. I am guessing the bolt was drilled into the brick a little bit (or simply touch/pin the brick) to hold the pan. In that way, it's easy to take out the pan for future maintenance.

2) in the picture, label as 3, it face north, there is some stain on the brick. I am thinking it might be the chase cover metal starts to rust and when water runs off the top during a rain. i wonder should I sand it then paint it?

3) is this a diy work for home owner, or it's better to call a handyman or chimney masonry?

I rarely use the fireplace, I use it probably once per year during Christmas, it's merely for decoration purpose.

 

[DAKSY]

We always used roofing nails to LOOSELY attach our aluminum chase tops to wood framed chases. The reason was that, more often than not, we installed the fireplace BEFORE the siding crews were in. Roofing nails would allow the siding crew to pop them out & flash the the upper framing members & then reattach the chase top. With brick construction, I'm thinking the you could lift it clear, wire brush the top most course of bricks & then liberally apply 30 year GE silicone all around the sides & top of the top course & slide the top back into position. If you wanted to place some added weight onto the top until the silicone set up, it probably wouldn't hurt. If you don't think the silicone has enough holding power, then I would drill & install tapcons with flat washers under the heads...HTH

 

[hiba]

We always used roofing nails to LOOSELY attach our aluminum chase tops to wood framed chases. The reason was that, more often than not, we installed the fireplace BEFORE the siding crews were in. Roofing nails would allow the siding crew to pop them out & flash the the upper framing members & then reattach the chase top. With brick construction, I'm thinking the you could lift it clear, wire brush the top most course of bricks & then liberally apply 30 year GE silicone all around the sides & top of the top course & slide the top back into position. If you wanted to place some added weight onto the top until the silicone set up, it probably wouldn't hurt. If you don't think the silicone has enough holding power, then I would drill & install tapcons with flat washers under the heads...HTH

Hi Bob,

Thank you very much for your detailed suggestion. I wish I can see you post earlier. I just went up the roof, and pop the pan back to the chase. When it pop out again, I am going to use your method to fix it permanently.

I have 3 more questions if you allow me

1)Can I assume the drawback of GE silicone is future maintenance when you need to open the chase to sweep the chimney or other service?
You mentioned apply GE silicone on the top, can it be applied to the side?
is this the right one?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Silicone-Iron-Grip-10-1-oz-Clear-Silicone-Adhesive-HD90058/206692092

2) If go with tapcons, I need to use masonry drill bit to drill a pilot hole in the brick, then use this tapcon?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tapcon-1...Head-Concrete-Anchors-75-Pack-24330/100098197

3) I read the review at homedepot of tapcon, a fair amount of complaint is that tapcon has no holding power. Is it usually a human error or it's a common issue related to this type of fasten mechanism (into the brick)? any tip you can offer to do it right?

Once again, thank you very much!

 

[RandyBoBandy]

I have used tapcons for many things and never had a problem. Just don't drill into the brick. Drill into the mortar joint.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I was going to say exactly what DAKSY indicated. Use a hammer drill on the hole if you use tapcons. It'll save you lots of frustration.

The reason to drill into the mortar vs the brick is that mortar is repairable. Brick will always have that hole in it after you drill it. If you hit the brick, it'll still hold. Don't think you've done a major no no if you hit the brick.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Oh and that woodpecker is looking for a lady. He says, "Come hither female woodpecker and see my awesomeness". It's their version of Hold my beer and watch this.

 

[bholler]

Just use tapcons if it ever needs to come off and it is gooped down with liberal ammounts of silicone you will be very unhappy and will probably be replacing the chase cover. That and silocone all over the brick is way more damaging than a couple of tapcon holes.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

a brick could fall apart if you try hammer drilling into or even fall apart when forcing a tapcon into it. Like stated before, mortarvis easy to fix. It would suck to have to grind out an entire brick and replace it.

 

[bholler]

a brick could fall apart if you try hammer drilling into or even fall apart when forcing a tapcon into it. Like stated before, mortarvis easy to fix. It would suck to have to grind out an entire brick and replace it.

We put tapcons into brick all the time with no issues

 

[RandyBoBandy]

We put tapcons into brick all the time with no issues

Interesting. I have lived my life (the working portion of it)under the rule of drilling into the mortar to avoid damaging the brick. That's good you haven't had any issues. It would still make me nervous

 

[bholler]

That's good you haven't had any issues. It would still make me nervous

You have to stay away from the edges and make sure you have the right size bit but as long as you do that you should be fine. The reason we do that many times is often the mortar on the top of the chimney is not in the greatest shape and screws or anchors wont hold in it.

 

[hiba]

Thank you very much for your reply. It really help me to determine the next step.

I went up there and take a look. I move the metal pan a little bit so it fit the brick of masonry chimneys. The problem is next time high wind will move it again, so I need to find some permanent solution.


Sorry about the photo quality. there are 4 nail (or screw) on the top. and I am thinking underneath the metal pan is the wood frame. The easiest thing to do is to add another nail/screw/tapcon on the adjacent spot (maybe seal around the nail head to be safe) . But if I understand correctly, I suppose to use nail/screw/tapcon on the side (instead of on the top)? What's the best approach here?

Many thanks!

 

[hiba]

Just use tapcons if it ever needs to come off and it is gooped down with liberal ammounts of silicone you will be very unhappy and will probably be replacing the chase cover. That and silocone all over the brick is way more damaging than a couple of tapcon holes.

Just curious why silocone all over the brick is way more damaging?

 

[hiba]

Oh and that woodpecker is looking for a lady. He says, "Come hither female woodpecker and see my awesomeness". It's their version of Hold my beer and watch this.

haha, that's why I figure what's happening. fortunately he move on

 

[bholler]

Just curious why silocone all over the brick is way more damaging?

because it will never come off you would have to replace the brick if you wanted to remove the cover and have it look good. With screw holes even into brick I would just mix up some mortar mix in some dye to match the color and it is fixed in under an hour

 

[hiba]

because it will never come off you would have to replace the brick if you wanted to remove the cover and have it look good. With screw holes even into brick I would just mix up some mortar mix in some dye to match the color and it is fixed in under an hour

That make sense. Thank you very much

 

[double-d]

It looks as if you have a galvanized cover and that is why it is rusting. The hole cutout probably does not have a standing collar sticking up, The collar would help with keeping water out.

If and when you replace the Chase Cover, IMO I would go with a Stainless Cover, they have lifetime warranties, and a larger one that would fit over the second row of bricks. Right now all the water that runs off the chase is landing onto the ledge of the 2nd row.
.Or at least bring skirt edge down to where the second row is, and use the Drip Edge that you can get on the new chase cover which will also divert the water away.

We use Tapcon screws into the bricks and have never ran into any issues either. I would never recommend installing nails or screws into the top surface of the chase, just another possible way for water to seep in.

 

[Ashful]

Crude. Put a proper topper on it! I have the same type of flagstone topper on three of my chimneys, and they work very nicely.

 

[bholler]

Crude. Put a proper topper on it! I have four, three of them set up with a flagstone topper:

I cant stand flagstone ontop like that yes it holds up well and looks good but it makes working on the top of the chimney a real pita. But I agree he needs a stainless top plate

What's the best approach here?

Roofing screws with rubber washers into the wood

 

[Ashful]

I cant stand flagstone ontop like that yes it holds up well and looks good but it makes working on the top of the chimney a real pita. But I agree he needs a stainless top plate

My chimney guy doesn't mind it, but mine are set up pretty well. The small patio fireplace doesn't get swept, but the two taller ones on the house are both very easily removable. One is only 18" square, and the larger one is in two pieces with the flue centered under one piece. He simply slides that piece on top of the other, sweeps, and slides it back.

edit: Oh, and when I sweep myself... bottom-up!

 

[bholler]

My chimney guy doesn't mind it, but mine are set up pretty well. The small patio fireplace doesn't get swept, but the two taller ones on the house are both very easily removable. One is only 18" square, and the larger one is in two pieces with the flue centered under one piece. He simply slides that piece on top of the other, sweeps, and slides it back.

edit: Oh, and when I sweep myself... bottom-up!

We usually sweep bottom up to and in that case it doesn't matter. But believe me moving even an 18x18 flagstone off of brick columns that are usually wobbly all while on top of a roof is not that much fun. They do look good but I would prefer to see a nice cap with a removable cover up there we have been putting quite a few powder coated ones on lately and they look good. But in this case it look like the op has a zc unit with a brick covered framed chase so I think a ss chase cover is the best solution.

 

[hiba]

It looks as if you have a galvanized cover and that is why it is rusting. The hole cutout probably does not have a standing collar sticking up, The collar would help with keeping water out.

If and when you replace the Chase Cover, IMO I would go with a Stainless Cover, they have lifetime warranties, and a larger one that would fit over the second row of bricks. Right now all the water that runs off the chase is landing onto the ledge of the 2nd row.
.Or at least bring skirt edge down to where the second row is, and use the Drip Edge that you can get on the new chase cover which will also divert the water away.

We use Tapcon screws into the bricks and have never ran into any issues either. I would never recommend installing nails or screws into the top surface of the chase, just another possible way for water to seep in.

Hi double-d,

Thank you very much for your suggestion. I talked to a chimney guy, he quote me for the new chase stainless cover for $750. I am going to go with him when it's ready to pull the trigger.

Thank you again!

 

[hiba]

Crude. Put a proper topper on it! I have the same type of flagstone topper on three of my chimneys, and they work very nicely.

View attachment 197074 View attachment 197072 View attachment 197073

wow, very nice house.
is your roof steel?

 

[double-d]

I talked to a chimney guy, he quote me for the new chase stainless cover for $750

I hope that is the Installed price and not just for the chase cover.

 

[Ashful]

wow, very nice house.
is your roof steel?

Thanks. The roof on the part of the house you can see in that photo (which is the 1770's wing) is standing-seam metal installed before my time, so I can't be 100% certain of the material but I do believe it is steel. That's the back corner of the current house, which I believe is built upon the corner of a former house on this site, dating to 1738. Subsequent owners have been expanding it ever since.