How Your Harman Works -what your manual doesn't tell you..

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breed5577

New Member
Nov 7, 2014
28
Northern, NJ
Thanks Mod for correcting the title!

Now, let's have some fun and stay warm!

How your stove works - The facts are pretty straightforward, but how you get people to properly interpret the facts is the hard part. It's your toy, run it the way you want as long as you understand what's going on behind the scenes! Everything noted below is based on me seeing what the stove is doing via the Harman diagnostic tool during the various operation methods. I get to see feed rates, max feed rates, current ESP temps, ESP set temps, room sensor temperatures, room sensor target temperatures, knob positions, switch positions, etc.

Here are the facts:

Stove temp - 100% driven the the ESP (temperature probe in stove exhaust flow). Temp dial corresponds to a fixed ESP temperature. For simplicity, let's assume a setting of 3 = 300 degrees ESP temp. The stove will ramp feed up/down to always be as close to 300 degrees as possible. In stove temp the stove doesn't care what the room temp is, only the ESP temp. The room might be 60 or 90 degrees doesn't matter, all it cares about is maintaining an ESP temp of 300.The stove will not shut off in stove temp regardless of whether the igniter switch is set to auto or manual. Stove temp, switch to manual - I call this fireplace mode. Distribution fan will not turn on unless the temp knob is set to 5 or higher. This is designed to give a nice fire, but not a ton of heat in the room. Most goes up the chimney. Stove temp, switch to auto - distribution fan operates normally to push heat into the room, regardless of stove or room temperature. There is a caveat to this, if you have your room temp set to 1 (very low) then the distribution blower might shut off because the ESP temperature is below the lowest setting allowed for the distribution blower to run.

Room Temp - The stove is 100% driven by the room temp sensor. The stove will automatically adjust feed and ESP temp to achieve the room temp set point. Once the set point is reached, the stove will slowly throttle up/down to maintain temperature. If it's 20 degrees outside, your heat load is high and the stove will feed more pellets to get the ESP temp hot enough to maintain room temperature set point. If it's 60 degrees outside, the stove will feed as little as possible and keep as low an ESP temp as possible to maintain room temperature. Igniter switch to manual, stove will go into maintenance burn in between calls for heat - prevents igniter cycling, might use a few more pellets in this mode...maybe... Igniter switch to auto, stove will initiate the shut down process in between calls for heat - igniter could cycle several times per day, depends on set point and heat load. If there is a call for heat during the shutdown process, the stove will start feeding pellets provided that the ESP temperature didn't go below the low limit. So, on really cold days, the stove might not shut off, even if it's on auto.

The key to getting room temp to work is placement or "calibration" of the room temp sensor. This is a tricky subject due to the sheer number of variables that can contribute to success or lack there of. Ideally, you want the tip of the probe in an area that is not subject to drafts, direct sun or areas that could lead to heat soak from the stove or areas that make it tough to calibrate like basement concrete floors. Ideally, you want the probe on an inside wall (no drafts), away from concrete and fairly far from the stove, even if you need to extend the wire. If the probe is where you are, then the stove can work to keep an even temp that works for you. If your set on having the dial temp correspond with the room temp, you will need to experiment for a while until you find the most reliable place for the probe to stay.

Alternatively, you can place the probe in a "stable" location and simply adjust the temp knob to achieve the most comfortable room temperature. Maybe 78 on the temp knob gives you a steady 72 degrees, no worries, just keep in mind that the probe reads 6 degrees high and do the simple math if you feel like adjusting the temp.

Either way, you need to be smarter than the probe, since it does nothing more or less than reading the temp where it resides. ;)

;ex If either option above doesn't suit your needs, you can ditch the way Harman wants you to run the stove and install a simple thermostat to control the room temperature. See my signature for details on the Skytach model or see post #8 below or the traditional Harman recommendation.

And more...

Feed Rates - Feed rate is controlled by the stove ESP. The stove will select a feed rate based on the actual temperature and target call for heat. The larger the temperature delta (actual room temp vs. target room temp), the greater the feed rate will be. 10 degrees would be a large delta and the stove would feed to reach max ESP temp of about 500 degrees depending on stove model. A 2 degree delta might only result in a feed rate of 20 seconds per minute even though the feed rate max dial is set to 4 (or 40 seconds per minute). The stove can vary the feed rate between 2.5 seconds per minute and the max feed rate you set. A feed rate of 6 would represent continuous feeding if the ESP wasn't seeing sufficient temperatures to satisfy the call for heat.When up to temp the stove will regulate itself form 2.5 seconds per minute of feed up to the limit you set.

Feed rates can lead to incomplete combustion comes in 2 forms:

1. Pellets spilling over the edge of the burn pot before they are reduced to ash.
2. Smoke.

Relative to #1 - when you run the stove wide open (stove temp setting at 7), the burning pellets should come no closer than 1 inch from the edge of the burn pot. You should have burning pellets and about 1" of ash before the edge. If pellets are bulging and close to the edge, you might not turn them to ash before spilling over the edge, wasting energy. If the burn line is too close, dial the feed rate back a bit, may by 1/2 of a number (i.e. 3.5 to 3). The stove doesn't run wide open once everything is up to temp, so this is only for scenarios where, for instance, the room is 65 and you want it 75 degrees or you turn the temp dial all the way clockwise (just don't walk away for too long or you'll bake yourself...).

Relative to #2 - smoke is also a sign of incomplete combustion, meaning that there is more fuel than air supplied by the combustion blower. This too should be evaluated when the stove is running WIDE OPEN. At night with a flashlight, you'll always see smoke. During the day, smoke is rated based on opacity or how easily you can see through it. Startup might be 50% opacity or fairly heavy smoke. If you are 10% or less (barely visible), that's reasonable and you aren't really wasting anything. If you have to struggle to see it, you're probably good. If you can easily see smoke and your flame is HUGE, try dialing back feed rate a bit to bring the air/fuel mix back into a more efficient range by dialing it back by 1/2 of a number (ie 3.5 to 3). In most cases, you don't want to be below 3 or much above 4. You'll also want to recalibrate after changing brands of pellets since the blend and size of pellet will cause it to burn/feed differently.

Setting your feed rate too low doesn't save pellets and stove performance will suffer since your inhibiting the ESP from reaching target temps. Setting your feed rate too low is like putting a brick underneath the gas pedal of your car.

Don't be tempted to set your feed rate too low.

So there's the facts, interpret away...

Cleaning tip - During your periodic cleaning, turn the knob to "test" while you clean the firebox to evacuate the ash out the chimney vs. into your room.
I have a 2008 p38+ that I just upgraded to the newer style circuit board. I use the Stove Temp setting since it works better for my particular set up. I followed the recommended feed rate of 4 but it is very hot with a huge flame. I am now at feed rate 1 and the flame is smaller but it's still hot. Maybe I have a bad board or the potentiometer dials are off. Will play around more tomorrow. Thanks for the tutorial.
 

breed5577

New Member
Nov 7, 2014
28
Northern, NJ
If it is too hot turn it down.
I have the p38+ settings in stove mode, 3.5 feed rate and temp setting to 1 and it's way to hot. Granted it was a warm day today in Northern NJ. Still have a medium size flame. House is at 72 which is hot for us. We like it around 68. The old 2 knob board I was able to keep the stove on a low simmer so to speak on the warm days. Do I need to fiddle with the feed rate more. I burn Stove chow from Home Depot. Never had an issue with them.

Thanks,
Barry
 

TonyVideo

Feeling the Heat
Feb 20, 2014
457
Rushville, IN
The feed rate will not lower the flame. Have you ever cleaned the ESP probe? This exhaust probe is the only thing needed in stove mode as it regulates the exhaust temp. Feed rate down all the way will do nothing in maintenance mode. You could crank a window for a few to bring the temp down a little. With a P38 I understand your reluctance to to turn your stove off completely as you would have to manually restart it. These are your only options as far as I know.
 

breed5577

New Member
Nov 7, 2014
28
Northern, NJ
The ESP is new so I know it's clean. Maybe it's just how the new board works which is no problem. Just wanted to make sure I was operating it correctly. The p38+ can be a nuisance to light but I use a plumbers blow torch and a small amount of petroleum jelly (.5 tsp) wrapped in a cotton swab the the wife uses fro makeup and stuff that in the burn pot. Lights great all the time. Thanks
 

TonyVideo

Feeling the Heat
Feb 20, 2014
457
Rushville, IN
You could turn down the convection blower all the way down. You may be already be doing this. Not having a 38 I assume you have a auto manual switch but auto side does not work. You could put the stove in room temp mode manual and then turn it all the way down as it would still do a maintenance fire but turn off the convection blower completely until needed.
 

breed5577

New Member
Nov 7, 2014
28
Northern, NJ
Great idea. I may actually try to install the thermistor and go into room temp mode to see if that will lower the flame. Kinda of fun to experiment with these stoves. Thanks
 

breed5577

New Member
Nov 7, 2014
28
Northern, NJ
Just started the p38+. Feed rate at 3.5, it's on stove mode and the temp is at 2. My flame is huge and the augur is feeding rapidly. Why would it do this if it's on Stove mode where I am controlling the settings.
 

Mac McIlvaine

New Member
Nov 25, 2014
13
Somewhere
Hi, I've been reading the original post in this thread and many of the later ones. I have over the years replaced a few of the ESP units.

What exactly is in the thing? It doesn't act like a thermocouple when measured. The old one I just replaced is around 200k ohms at room temp and goes down as the temp goes up. The new one reads about 600k and goes down with temp increase.

My first guess was a thermocouple since that's typically what would be chosen for high temp nasty environs.

Any ideas?

Also, was told the ESP units can fail if the draft blower slows with age. Is this correct? (Do they just fail or actually go slower with age?)

Regards,
Mac
 

glen1971

New Member
Nov 19, 2014
8
Pincher Creek, Alberta
Hi, I've been reading the original post in this thread and many of the later ones. I have over the years replaced a few of the ESP units.

What exactly is in the thing? It doesn't act like a thermocouple when measured. The old one I just replaced is around 200k ohms at room temp and goes down as the temp goes up. The new one reads about 600k and goes down with temp increase.

My first guess was a thermocouple since that's typically what would be chosen for high temp nasty environs.

Any ideas?

Also, was told the ESP units can fail if the draft blower slows with age. Is this correct? (Do they just fail or actually go slower with age?)

Regards,
Mac
With the higher temps in the exhaust I'm guessing it is a thermocouple.. They send a signal in millivolts rather than resistance like an rtd...
 

bacitup88

New Member
Nov 28, 2014
22
NJ
Hello. Since this post is great I thought I might ask a question. My Accentra began shutting down after 15 minutes of normal operation. All the lights stay on (no blinking from distro/comustion/feed motor lights) but the stove stops blowing smoke out of the chimney and the stove almost immediatley stops burning (flame shuts down within a minute). I'm running it on stove temp. Any ideas? Will running it on room temp bypass any functions of the ESP (Maybe thats the issue)?

Thanks in advance

Thanks Mod for correcting the title!

Now, let's have some fun and stay warm!

How your stove works - The facts are pretty straightforward, but how you get people to properly interpret the facts is the hard part. It's your toy, run it the way you want as long as you understand what's going on behind the scenes! Everything noted below is based on me seeing what the stove is doing via the Harman diagnostic tool during the various operation methods. I get to see feed rates, max feed rates, current ESP temps, ESP set temps, room sensor temperatures, room sensor target temperatures, knob positions, switch positions, etc.

Here are the facts:

Stove temp - 100% driven the the ESP (temperature probe in stove exhaust flow). Temp dial corresponds to a fixed ESP temperature. For simplicity, let's assume a setting of 3 = 300 degrees ESP temp. The stove will ramp feed up/down to always be as close to 300 degrees as possible. In stove temp the stove doesn't care what the room temp is, only the ESP temp. The room might be 60 or 90 degrees doesn't matter, all it cares about is maintaining an ESP temp of 300.The stove will not shut off in stove temp regardless of whether the igniter switch is set to auto or manual. Stove temp, switch to manual - I call this fireplace mode. Distribution fan will not turn on unless the temp knob is set to 5 or higher. This is designed to give a nice fire, but not a ton of heat in the room. Most goes up the chimney. Stove temp, switch to auto - distribution fan operates normally to push heat into the room, regardless of stove or room temperature. There is a caveat to this, if you have your room temp set to 1 (very low) then the distribution blower might shut off because the ESP temperature is below the lowest setting allowed for the distribution blower to run.

Room Temp - The stove is 100% driven by the room temp sensor. The stove will automatically adjust feed and ESP temp to achieve the room temp set point. Once the set point is reached, the stove will slowly throttle up/down to maintain temperature. If it's 20 degrees outside, your heat load is high and the stove will feed more pellets to get the ESP temp hot enough to maintain room temperature set point. If it's 60 degrees outside, the stove will feed as little as possible and keep as low an ESP temp as possible to maintain room temperature. Igniter switch to manual, stove will go into maintenance burn in between calls for heat - prevents igniter cycling, might use a few more pellets in this mode...maybe... Igniter switch to auto, stove will initiate the shut down process in between calls for heat - igniter could cycle several times per day, depends on set point and heat load. If there is a call for heat during the shutdown process, the stove will start feeding pellets provided that the ESP temperature didn't go below the low limit. So, on really cold days, the stove might not shut off, even if it's on auto.

The key to getting room temp to work is placement or "calibration" of the room temp sensor. This is a tricky subject due to the sheer number of variables that can contribute to success or lack there of. Ideally, you want the tip of the probe in an area that is not subject to drafts, direct sun or areas that could lead to heat soak from the stove or areas that make it tough to calibrate like basement concrete floors. Ideally, you want the probe on an inside wall (no drafts), away from concrete and fairly far from the stove, even if you need to extend the wire. If the probe is where you are, then the stove can work to keep an even temp that works for you. If your set on having the dial temp correspond with the room temp, you will need to experiment for a while until you find the most reliable place for the probe to stay.

Alternatively, you can place the probe in a "stable" location and simply adjust the temp knob to achieve the most comfortable room temperature. Maybe 78 on the temp knob gives you a steady 72 degrees, no worries, just keep in mind that the probe reads 6 degrees high and do the simple math if you feel like adjusting the temp.

Either way, you need to be smarter than the probe, since it does nothing more or less than reading the temp where it resides. ;)

;ex If either option above doesn't suit your needs, you can ditch the way Harman wants you to run the stove and install a simple thermostat to control the room temperature. See my signature for details on the Skytach model or see post #8 below or the traditional Harman recommendation.

And more...

Feed Rates - Feed rate is controlled by the stove ESP. The stove will select a feed rate based on the actual temperature and target call for heat. The larger the temperature delta (actual room temp vs. target room temp), the greater the feed rate will be. 10 degrees would be a large delta and the stove would feed to reach max ESP temp of about 500 degrees depending on stove model. A 2 degree delta might only result in a feed rate of 20 seconds per minute even though the feed rate max dial is set to 4 (or 40 seconds per minute). The stove can vary the feed rate between 2.5 seconds per minute and the max feed rate you set. A feed rate of 6 would represent continuous feeding if the ESP wasn't seeing sufficient temperatures to satisfy the call for heat.When up to temp the stove will regulate itself form 2.5 seconds per minute of feed up to the limit you set.

Feed rates can lead to incomplete combustion comes in 2 forms:

1. Pellets spilling over the edge of the burn pot before they are reduced to ash.
2. Smoke.

Relative to #1 - when you run the stove wide open (stove temp setting at 7), the burning pellets should come no closer than 1 inch from the edge of the burn pot. You should have burning pellets and about 1" of ash before the edge. If pellets are bulging and close to the edge, you might not turn them to ash before spilling over the edge, wasting energy. If the burn line is too close, dial the feed rate back a bit, may by 1/2 of a number (i.e. 3.5 to 3). The stove doesn't run wide open once everything is up to temp, so this is only for scenarios where, for instance, the room is 65 and you want it 75 degrees or you turn the temp dial all the way clockwise (just don't walk away for too long or you'll bake yourself...).

Relative to #2 - smoke is also a sign of incomplete combustion, meaning that there is more fuel than air supplied by the combustion blower. This too should be evaluated when the stove is running WIDE OPEN. At night with a flashlight, you'll always see smoke. During the day, smoke is rated based on opacity or how easily you can see through it. Startup might be 50% opacity or fairly heavy smoke. If you are 10% or less (barely visible), that's reasonable and you aren't really wasting anything. If you have to struggle to see it, you're probably good. If you can easily see smoke and your flame is HUGE, try dialing back feed rate a bit to bring the air/fuel mix back into a more efficient range by dialing it back by 1/2 of a number (ie 3.5 to 3). In most cases, you don't want to be below 3 or much above 4. You'll also want to recalibrate after changing brands of pellets since the blend and size of pellet will cause it to burn/feed differently.

Setting your feed rate too low doesn't save pellets and stove performance will suffer since your inhibiting the ESP from reaching target temps. Setting your feed rate too low is like putting a brick underneath the gas pedal of your car.

Don't be tempted to set your feed rate too low.

So there's the facts, interpret away...

Cleaning tip - During your periodic cleaning, turn the knob to "test" while you clean the firebox to evacuate the ash out the chimney vs. into your room.
 

breed5577

New Member
Nov 7, 2014
28
Northern, NJ
Thanks Mod for correcting the title!

Now, let's have some fun and stay warm!

How your stove works - The facts are pretty straightforward, but how you get people to properly interpret the facts is the hard part. It's your toy, run it the way you want as long as you understand what's going on behind the scenes! Everything noted below is based on me seeing what the stove is doing via the Harman diagnostic tool during the various operation methods. I get to see feed rates, max feed rates, current ESP temps, ESP set temps, room sensor temperatures, room sensor target temperatures, knob positions, switch positions, etc.

Here are the facts:

Stove temp - 100% driven the the ESP (temperature probe in stove exhaust flow). Temp dial corresponds to a fixed ESP temperature. For simplicity, let's assume a setting of 3 = 300 degrees ESP temp. The stove will ramp feed up/down to always be as close to 300 degrees as possible. In stove temp the stove doesn't care what the room temp is, only the ESP temp. The room might be 60 or 90 degrees doesn't matter, all it cares about is maintaining an ESP temp of 300.The stove will not shut off in stove temp regardless of whether the igniter switch is set to auto or manual. Stove temp, switch to manual - I call this fireplace mode. Distribution fan will not turn on unless the temp knob is set to 5 or higher. This is designed to give a nice fire, but not a ton of heat in the room. Most goes up the chimney. Stove temp, switch to auto - distribution fan operates normally to push heat into the room, regardless of stove or room temperature. There is a caveat to this, if you have your room temp set to 1 (very low) then the distribution blower might shut off because the ESP temperature is below the lowest setting allowed for the distribution blower to run.

Room Temp - The stove is 100% driven by the room temp sensor. The stove will automatically adjust feed and ESP temp to achieve the room temp set point. Once the set point is reached, the stove will slowly throttle up/down to maintain temperature. If it's 20 degrees outside, your heat load is high and the stove will feed more pellets to get the ESP temp hot enough to maintain room temperature set point. If it's 60 degrees outside, the stove will feed as little as possible and keep as low an ESP temp as possible to maintain room temperature. Igniter switch to manual, stove will go into maintenance burn in between calls for heat - prevents igniter cycling, might use a few more pellets in this mode...maybe... Igniter switch to auto, stove will initiate the shut down process in between calls for heat - igniter could cycle several times per day, depends on set point and heat load. If there is a call for heat during the shutdown process, the stove will start feeding pellets provided that the ESP temperature didn't go below the low limit. So, on really cold days, the stove might not shut off, even if it's on auto.

The key to getting room temp to work is placement or "calibration" of the room temp sensor. This is a tricky subject due to the sheer number of variables that can contribute to success or lack there of. Ideally, you want the tip of the probe in an area that is not subject to drafts, direct sun or areas that could lead to heat soak from the stove or areas that make it tough to calibrate like basement concrete floors. Ideally, you want the probe on an inside wall (no drafts), away from concrete and fairly far from the stove, even if you need to extend the wire. If the probe is where you are, then the stove can work to keep an even temp that works for you. If your set on having the dial temp correspond with the room temp, you will need to experiment for a while until you find the most reliable place for the probe to stay.

Alternatively, you can place the probe in a "stable" location and simply adjust the temp knob to achieve the most comfortable room temperature. Maybe 78 on the temp knob gives you a steady 72 degrees, no worries, just keep in mind that the probe reads 6 degrees high and do the simple math if you feel like adjusting the temp.

Either way, you need to be smarter than the probe, since it does nothing more or less than reading the temp where it resides. ;)

;ex If either option above doesn't suit your needs, you can ditch the way Harman wants you to run the stove and install a simple thermostat to control the room temperature. See my signature for details on the Skytach model or see post #8 below or the traditional Harman recommendation.

And more...

Feed Rates - Feed rate is controlled by the stove ESP. The stove will select a feed rate based on the actual temperature and target call for heat. The larger the temperature delta (actual room temp vs. target room temp), the greater the feed rate will be. 10 degrees would be a large delta and the stove would feed to reach max ESP temp of about 500 degrees depending on stove model. A 2 degree delta might only result in a feed rate of 20 seconds per minute even though the feed rate max dial is set to 4 (or 40 seconds per minute). The stove can vary the feed rate between 2.5 seconds per minute and the max feed rate you set. A feed rate of 6 would represent continuous feeding if the ESP wasn't seeing sufficient temperatures to satisfy the call for heat.When up to temp the stove will regulate itself form 2.5 seconds per minute of feed up to the limit you set.

Feed rates can lead to incomplete combustion comes in 2 forms:

1. Pellets spilling over the edge of the burn pot before they are reduced to ash.
2. Smoke.

Relative to #1 - when you run the stove wide open (stove temp setting at 7), the burning pellets should come no closer than 1 inch from the edge of the burn pot. You should have burning pellets and about 1" of ash before the edge. If pellets are bulging and close to the edge, you might not turn them to ash before spilling over the edge, wasting energy. If the burn line is too close, dial the feed rate back a bit, may by 1/2 of a number (i.e. 3.5 to 3). The stove doesn't run wide open once everything is up to temp, so this is only for scenarios where, for instance, the room is 65 and you want it 75 degrees or you turn the temp dial all the way clockwise (just don't walk away for too long or you'll bake yourself...).

Relative to #2 - smoke is also a sign of incomplete combustion, meaning that there is more fuel than air supplied by the combustion blower. This too should be evaluated when the stove is running WIDE OPEN. At night with a flashlight, you'll always see smoke. During the day, smoke is rated based on opacity or how easily you can see through it. Startup might be 50% opacity or fairly heavy smoke. If you are 10% or less (barely visible), that's reasonable and you aren't really wasting anything. If you have to struggle to see it, you're probably good. If you can easily see smoke and your flame is HUGE, try dialing back feed rate a bit to bring the air/fuel mix back into a more efficient range by dialing it back by 1/2 of a number (ie 3.5 to 3). In most cases, you don't want to be below 3 or much above 4. You'll also want to recalibrate after changing brands of pellets since the blend and size of pellet will cause it to burn/feed differently.

Setting your feed rate too low doesn't save pellets and stove performance will suffer since your inhibiting the ESP from reaching target temps. Setting your feed rate too low is like putting a brick underneath the gas pedal of your car.

Don't be tempted to set your feed rate too low.

So there's the facts, interpret away...

Cleaning tip - During your periodic cleaning, turn the knob to "test" while you clean the firebox to evacuate the ash out the chimney vs. into your room.
This new circuit board is driving me nuts. My old p38 board went and did the upgrade. My feed rate is at
Hello. Since this post is great I thought I might ask a question. My Accentra began shutting down after 15 minutes of normal operation. All the lights stay on (no blinking from distro/comustion/feed motor lights) but the stove stops blowing smoke out of the chimney and the stove almost immediatley stops burning (flame shuts down within a minute). I'm running it on stove temp. Any ideas? Will running it on room temp bypass any functions of the ESP (Maybe thats the issue)?

Thanks in advance
Very strange. Have you tried room temp to see if it does the same? Could be a faulty ESP sensor.
 

bacitup88

New Member
Nov 28, 2014
22
NJ
This new circuit board is driving me nuts. My old p38 board went and did the upgrade. My feed rate is at


Very strange. Have you tried room temp to see if it does the same? Could be a faulty ESP sensor.
My combustion motor has been sqealing likw a pig for a month so I'm guessing the bearings are shot after 11 years. Gonna replace that this week and then I'll make my way to a new ESP sensor if it doesnt clear up...thanks!
 

breed5577

New Member
Nov 7, 2014
28
Northern, NJ
My combustion motor has been sqealing likw a pig for a month so I'm guessing the bearings are shot after 11 years. Gonna replace that this week and then I'll make my way to a new ESP sensor if it doesnt clear up...thanks!
I replaced my combustion motor too. Might as well replace the fan blade as you have to remove it. It was a bear getting the set screw off but a little WD-40 and some choice words helped. Why not order the esp at the same time. you can always return it depending on the company.
 

bacitup88

New Member
Nov 28, 2014
22
NJ
My combustion motor has been sqealing likw a pig for a month so I'm guessing the bearings are shot after 11 years. Gonna replace that this week and then I'll make my way to a new ESP sensor if it doesnt clear up...thanks!
I will probably go down that road as well., but was trying avoid another 100 dollars worth of repair
 

F4jock

Minister of Fire
Nov 12, 2014
1,604
Red Rock, PA
Ok guys, the Feed Rate pot doesn't control temp in Stove Mode, the Room Temp / Stove Temp pot does. Closer to 8 o'clock it is the lower the temp. All the feed rate does is regulate the max possible feed in seconds per minute. This leads to inefficient operation if set too low. When you changed your board did you check dipswitch settings to insure #5 is set correctly? ESP probe is always in the mix no matter what mode you are in. Finally, best nut-loosening solvent out there is called Kroil. Expensive but never failed me yet.
 
Last edited:

breed5577

New Member
Nov 7, 2014
28
Northern, NJ
Ok guys, the Feed Rate pot doesn't control temp in Stove Mode, the Room Temp / Stove Temp pot does. Closer to 8 o'clock it is the lower the temp. All the feed rate does is regulate the max possible feed in seconds per minute. This leads to inefficient operation if set too low. When you changed your board did you check dipswitch settings? ESP probe is always in the mix no matter what mode you are in. Finally, best nut-loosening solvent out there is called Kroil. Expensive but never failed me yet.
Had to switch to Room Mode since Stove Mode was baking me out of the house. Simple was not working. Even at the 1 setting was too hot. Hooked up the sensor for Room Mode and have never been happier. Works to perfection. Coming from the old style circuit board I had no experience in this mode. Glad I did the upgrade. My Dist blower only runs a quarter of the time now too.
 

F4jock

Minister of Fire
Nov 12, 2014
1,604
Red Rock, PA
Had to switch to Room Mode since Stove Mode was baking me out of the house. Simple was not working. Even at the 1 setting was too hot. Hooked up the sensor for Room Mode and have never been happier. Works to perfection. Coming from the old style circuit board I had no experience in this mode. Glad I did the upgrade. My Dist blower only runs a quarter of the time now too.
Interesting. I've heard that the room temp sensor needs to be hooked up no matter on the newer boards. Don't know as I always run in Room. You might try Stove again just to see if there is any difference. Also depending on ESP genre dipswitch 5's position needs to be checked.
 

breed5577

New Member
Nov 7, 2014
28
Northern, NJ
Your correct on the sensor needs to be hooked up. I never knew that before. With a combo of dealer techs and the tech speaking to Harman direct and me tinkering around the stove, it's humming along fine. That's one advantage the Englander owners have is a direct line to great tech support. I would not rule out owning one in the future.
 

bacitup88

New Member
Nov 28, 2014
22
NJ
I hear you. These repairs add up. Good luck
OK, so I put in the combustion motor and it works great. I turned it on, no squeals, but.....the feed motor is not kicking on. The light for the feed motor goes on (all modes including test) but the motor doesnt engage. If I jump power to the feed motor it works fine...Are we back to the ESP probe?

Thanks in advance!
 

F4jock

Minister of Fire
Nov 12, 2014
1,604
Red Rock, PA
OK, so I put in the combustion motor and it works great. I turned it on, no squeals, but.....the feed motor is not kicking on. The light for the feed motor goes on (all modes including test) but the motor doesnt engage. If I jump power to the feed motor it works fine...Are we back to the ESP probe?

Thanks in advance!
Sounds more like a permissive, vacuum or lid switch.
 
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