HR West Point - Auger Hitch Pin Snapped, Bronze Auger Bearing Gouged - Time for Nylatron Upgrade?

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Don2222

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Feb 1, 2010
9,123
Salem NH
Hello

Yes Sir!
This Hudson River West Point just went KAPUT ! ! !
The auger motor was resting on the air inlet tube because the hitch pin snapped. Also the auger bearing was turning in the end plate because the neck of the bearing was all warn in!

Therefore if the Tasman 40 or Saranac can take a Nylatron upgrade then why not the West Point? Thanks Dr. Whitfield!
See Saranac pics > https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/hopping-up-a-hudson-river.128391/#post-1729496

After doing this once already, I got this operation performed in 1.5 hours flat!
Now by also buffing out the auger and chute with a wire wheel and spraying the auger with high temp dry moly, this big boy is now has the Super "Pimp up your Auger" service!

Check that the auger turns freely by hand before installing the motor. then line up the auger hole and hole in motor shaft in insert hitch pin from the right side of the stove(looking from the front)

Shaft now turns like butter and bearing is permanently lubricated!
This not only helps prevent auger jams but is so much easier on the auger motor that the motor will last longer. I have seen an auger motor last for 20 years on a Whitfield Quest!

Pic 01 - Broken auger hitch pin, gouged bronze auger bearing and old end plate
Pic 2,3 - Original 1.5 RPM auger motor, bearing, collar and end plate
Pic 04 - end plate comes out and bearing stays in! That should not happen!
Pic 05 - Using original end plate mark the 2 new drill holes with an awl
________Plates were clamped together for easy marking
Pic 06 - Drill hole starting with a smaller bit until proper size hole is made
Pic 07 - Buff out auger and spray with "Dry Moly" check and grind any burrs(Auger Pox)
Pic 08 - Punch 2 new holes in end plate gasket with a single hole paper punch
Pic 09 - Bolt in new end plate
Pic 10 - Bolt in auger motor - Original was still good but you may want to install a new 1.5 RPM for good measure. :)
 

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The end result
A good stove made more reliable!

Pic 11 - Nylatron bearing hopper view
Pic 12 - Hudson River West Point with Selkirk DT venting and lighted raised hearth Super Install!
Pic 13 - What a flame!
 

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ok, so i just got the Nylatron bearing and end plate..... I haven't installed yet. I test fit everything out side of the stove and the Nylatron bearing fits super snug on the augur, is that how it is supposed to be. and when you say about dry moly the auger, do I do the whole thing? sorry I am a novice at this.

thanks
 
ok, so i just got the Nylatron bearing and end plate..... I haven't installed yet. I test fit everything out side of the stove and the Nylatron bearing fits super snug on the augur, is that how it is supposed to be. and when you say about dry moly the auger, do I do the whole thing? sorry I am a novice at this.

thanks
Clean the auger shaft where the bearing slides on real well with a wire wheel to remove any residue and make it smooth. I would think that the op meant the whole auger.
 
ok, so i just got the Nylatron bearing and end plate..... I haven't installed yet. I test fit everything out side of the stove and the Nylatron bearing fits super snug on the augur, is that how it is supposed to be. and when you say about dry moly the auger, do I do the whole thing? sorry I am a novice at this.

thanks
Hello
Yes the Nylatron bearing does fit snug.
It does break in some after a few hours of use. It is the best auger bearing on the market invented by Dr Whitfield and that is why his stoves last so long.

I put the dry Moly on the auger except where the upper and Lower bearings are.
 
I am clogging up big time and not sure why..... They ran out of my normal pellets I burn...... bought some different and they were clogging up..... tried different kind (soft/hard) and went a bit longer but still clogging..... I am getting frustrated