Well, 2.5 months in with the new HT3000 and has been rolling well!!
I posted awhile ago, I had removed an approximately 10 yr old Osburn 1600 woodstove and replaced with a HT3000, price of propane is horrendous!
Took about 4-5 fires to get rid of the paint curing smell.
It also took about a month of trial and error to get this stove to work to its full potential, and see the differences between the old and new.
Another member on this forum, "BEGREEN" I think, posted a procedure for running an EPA stove that helped, I just fine tuned for my stove.
Moisture content is a huge thing you have to be concerned with, not nearly as forgiving with the EPA.
It has not been without a fire since I started it.
Here is what I do to keep a good solid fire running, and heating for upwards of 8-10hours;
-rake coals to front and leave door cracked for approx. 2-3mins, cols get nice and red
-load wood into stove north/south
-leave door open, just un latched until fire starts rolling well
-close door and leave flue wide open, monitor flue (insertion thermometer) temperature and stove top thermometer (this is new, didn't use one before), both temperatures will rise at the same temperature together, when the flue is slightly higher that stove top, flue 500F, stove top 400F, close flue half way, allow 5-10mins to stabilize, then close almost completely
-sometimes i have to open the flue again and repeat if I did it too soon
-once the flue has been closed and the secondary burn is rolling, the stove top temperature cruises at about 600F at peak and slowly comes back down.
My reference to the "flue", opening and closing, is air shutter on the front, not a key damper in the actual flue
This stove heats the house completely, and propane furnace never comes on, house is a 1200ft bungalow, kids in basement are fine, stove is on main floor.
I live in Canada, and as I type this, the putdoor temperature is -17C, house is at about 22C
Hope this helps anyone looking for it, and if anyone has any other tips and tricks I would love to hear them
I posted awhile ago, I had removed an approximately 10 yr old Osburn 1600 woodstove and replaced with a HT3000, price of propane is horrendous!
Took about 4-5 fires to get rid of the paint curing smell.
It also took about a month of trial and error to get this stove to work to its full potential, and see the differences between the old and new.
Another member on this forum, "BEGREEN" I think, posted a procedure for running an EPA stove that helped, I just fine tuned for my stove.
Moisture content is a huge thing you have to be concerned with, not nearly as forgiving with the EPA.
It has not been without a fire since I started it.
Here is what I do to keep a good solid fire running, and heating for upwards of 8-10hours;
-rake coals to front and leave door cracked for approx. 2-3mins, cols get nice and red
-load wood into stove north/south
-leave door open, just un latched until fire starts rolling well
-close door and leave flue wide open, monitor flue (insertion thermometer) temperature and stove top thermometer (this is new, didn't use one before), both temperatures will rise at the same temperature together, when the flue is slightly higher that stove top, flue 500F, stove top 400F, close flue half way, allow 5-10mins to stabilize, then close almost completely
-sometimes i have to open the flue again and repeat if I did it too soon
-once the flue has been closed and the secondary burn is rolling, the stove top temperature cruises at about 600F at peak and slowly comes back down.
My reference to the "flue", opening and closing, is air shutter on the front, not a key damper in the actual flue
This stove heats the house completely, and propane furnace never comes on, house is a 1200ft bungalow, kids in basement are fine, stove is on main floor.
I live in Canada, and as I type this, the putdoor temperature is -17C, house is at about 22C
Hope this helps anyone looking for it, and if anyone has any other tips and tricks I would love to hear them
