Husky 350 help. In michigan if possibleood sa

[BobUrban]

ok so I have my 350 and the saw is minty new like and I love it... except the damn exhaust bolts vibrating out. Finally one of them has done so so often it stripped the case or whatever the aluminum is called that the piston is in and the exhaust bolts to. So I got longer bolts. I know people have dome the helicoil thing but I have no clue where to get one or what to get. I think there is plenty of material to retap and go bigger w the bolt too.

So... any suggestions, help, place to but parts I need to fix it w the helicoil?? Anyone done this and want to do another?

Just trying to keep a good saw running and right now the damn thing is down for the count.

Thanks. Bob urban.

 

[BobUrban]

Sorry the title got screwed up. It sent this from my phone and the curser got away from me.

 

[johneh]

Go to a good machine shop they will have the helicoil you need and the tool to install
Or a good auto parts store they also will have helicoil kits with tool and do it your self
Take the bolt with you so you get the right size
Or amazon https://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=helicoil+kits

 

[BobUrban]

Thank you. I kinda figured a machine shop could help me. I'll try the parts store first. My local husky dealer told me to junk the saw. Kinda bummed me out he was zero help. The saw is awesome and I will get it going again.

 

[Jon1270]

I'm pretty sure that's an M5 screw.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BB8XLG/?tag=hearthamazon-20

 

[TradEddie]

Slightly late response, but I just came across your post. Yes, I did the helicoil thing, it worked for a while, but eventually even those got loose and after seeing my muffler hit the chain and shoot 30 feet ahead, I got the next size bolt, drilled and filed out the muffler holes to accept that bolt and then forced those bolts to cut their own threads in the cylinder head. I think I got five or six years with those bolts before one sheared off yesterday. (Hence I'm back here looking for alternative saws). Helicoils only cost a few bucks, only take a few minutes, and are much cheaper than a new saw. If I was doing it again, I'd look for high temp loctite and use that first time with the heliicoil.

You need an M5x0.8 helicoil kit, that comes with drill bit and tool.

TE

 

[Jon1270]

Slightly late response, but I just came across your post. Yes, I did the helicoil thing, it worked for a while, but eventually even those got loose and after seeing my muffler hit the chain and shoot 30 feet ahead, I got the next size bolt, drilled and filed out the muffler holes to accept that bolt and then forced those bolts to cut their own threads in the cylinder head. I think I got five or six years with those bolts before one sheared off yesterday. (Hence I'm back here looking for alternative saws). Helicoils only cost a few bucks, only take a few minutes, and are much cheaper than a new saw. If I was doing it again, I'd look for high temp loctite and use that first time with the heliicoil.

You need an M5x0.8 helicoil kit, that comes with drill bit and tool.

TE

Weigh the time and cost of a helicoil kit against the possibility of just buying a cheap aftermarket 346 top end kit.

 

[brenndatomu]

For that I would use a thread insert rather than a heli coil...stronger and can be mechanically and chemically locked in (high temp Loctite) https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0123156?r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600186 Thread Repair"|~ ~|categoryl3:"600189 Threaded Inserts"|~ ~|sattr02:^M5-0.8$|~

I really like Time-Serts the best http://www.timesert.com/index.html

 

[jetsam]

For that I would use a thread insert rather than a heli coil...stronger and can be mechanically and chemically locked in (high temp Loctite) https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0123156?r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600186 Thread Repair"|~ ~|categoryl3:"600189 Threaded Inserts"|~ ~|sattr02:^M5-0.8$|~

I really like Time-Serts the best http://www.timesert.com/index.html

I guess it doesn't actually say which of the Americas it was designed and made in. Not one where English is spoken, apparently.

Looks like a good insert, though, I will have to try 'em.

 

[TradEddie]

Weigh the time and cost of a helicoil kit against the possibility of just buying a cheap aftermarket 346 top end kit.

I was just thinking about the same thing for my own saw, since there's no way I can extract a broken 7mm SS bolt from the cylinder. Any suggestions to what would be the cheapest compatible kit?

TE

 

[dougand3]

Here is an example of 45mm 346XP top end. Your kit MUST have the spacer/riser because you are replacing the taller 44mm clamshell.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-3...367384?hash=item2829b43398:g:eFIAAOSw-0xYhmld

You could stay with 44mm top end for $25 or so. Search ebay.

 

[Jon1270]

Here is an example of 45mm 346XP top end. Your kit MUST have the spacer/riser because you are replacing the taller 44mm clamshell.

The 350 already has a riser; the cylinder is flat-bottomed, not clamshell.

 

[dougand3]

Ah, thanks for clearing that up. If all you need is the 45mm top end - even cheaper.

The 350 already has a riser; the cylinder is flat-bottomed, not clamshell.

 

[TradEddie]

I found kits on Amazon for $23 (I try not to use ebay, too much stolen property) last night, I think that's less than a helicoil kit! $35 for a kit with gasket, spark plug and gas filter!

It literally took me longer to read how to remove the old cylinder than it took me to actually do it. I can't justify $100 for a 346xp head, I'm too sure something else will break soon, that saw has seen too much abuse. However it was selective abuse, that cylinder and piston looked like new. I just beat the heck out of the outside case, it's only ever got good gas, and careful mixes.

Will order those tonight and will report back to OP, but this seems like the way to go.
If all else fails, new saw per other thread.

Thanks all.

TE

 

[Dairyman]

I found kits on Amazon for $23 (I try not to use ebay, too much stolen property) last night, I think that's less than a helicoil kit! $35 for a kit with gasket, spark plug and gas filter!

It literally took me longer to read how to remove the old cylinder than it took me to actually do it. I can't justify $100 for a 346xp head, I'm too sure something else will break soon, that saw has seen too much abuse. However it was selective abuse, that cylinder and piston looked like new. I just beat the heck out of the outside case, it's only ever got good gas, and careful mixes.

Will order those tonight and will report back to OP, but this seems like the way to go.
If all else fails, new saw per other thread.

Thanks all.

TE

If you get it patched up you might want to try adding the muffler bracket from a 346. You'll have to trim the recoil side ear off. It'll look like this...

 

[TradEddie]

I ordered that muffler bracket at the same time. If it wasn't for this site, I'd never know that such a mod ever existed.

TE

 

[BobUrban]

Ok. Little late but an update. I bought the helicoil and proceeded to break a bolt off in it. Ugh. So I went to another fun site I frequent to look for a 346xp. Found a great saw man with three of them and.... he is right here in my home town like 20 minutes away. Spoke with him on the phone and he has since sold me an awesome 346 and repaired the 350. I ain't telling you all what it cost cause you all would be jealous but suffice it to say I feel very fortunate and now have a GREAT saw man to go to. He is building a hot rod 350 for a friend too.

 

[TradEddie]

OK, an even later update. Although the OP doesn't need it anymore, this is for anyone who finds this in the future. 44mm replacement cylinder kit for Husq 350 was less than $25, muffler and bracket $16 and a gasket set $6. All I needed was the head gasket, but it was cheaper to buy the set and have spares.

Cylinder kit arrived quickly, but the piston ring was broken. I tried in vain to use my old ring, discovering that I must have a 45mm cylinder. I eventually got back from vacation and had an entire replacement kit sent, for some reason they couldn't just send me a ring from another kit.
Changing everything out was almost trivial, even though its been 25 years since I've seen the inside of an engine that needed to run again. No special tools or knowledge needed, anyone with good DIY sense could do it. The old gudgeon pin needed some force to remove, and the new circlips were tricky to insert, but it just took some patience. There was no need to remove the carb, despite the manual saying otherwise.

The engine started first pull with whatever the carb was last set at, and after running it gently, I cut some 4-6" logs then noodled some oak uglies with what I wrongly thought was sharp chain. Something was burning and smoking initially, but I expect/hope that is just some coating or paint. The engine is running great, the idle and high need adjustment, but it's already running better than it has in years, and all for less then $50 and 30 minutes of work.

TE