Husqvarna 460, use 24in bar w a skip chain?

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ctswf

Burning Hunk
Sep 23, 2014
154
ct, usa
I use the husqvarna 460 with 20in bar and regular chain, its been great.

Im going to pickup a 24 in bar to be used only occasionally, when i do need it, it will be pretty buried in oak. Would i do well with a skip chain for this? Most info i found on it point to larger saws

This is a 60cc homeowner grade saw.

I currently have a few massive oak bases dropped in my yard, maybe 42in diameter
 
I will be interested to see responses to this. I run a Stihl 311 with a 20 inch bar and a rapid super chain, really never seems to slow down and I think it would run a 24 inch bar OK. It is a 59 CC chainsaw

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Never run a 460 Rancher that I can recall.

I have run a few different 60cc saws but professional models. None of them would be my saw of choice with a 24 inch bar and regular chain buried in oak or any other hardwood. In softer wood perhaps. But with a skip chain I think I would be happier.

For what it's worth I've got a 24 inch bar and regular full chisel chain on a 70cc professional saw. There have been times when buried in oak that I've often wanted more power in the saw. Seems like some oaks are harder than others and the saw doesn't break a sweat on red oak but then switching to white oak, I've noticed it's slower and works harder.

All that said though if the 460 is your only saw and 1 saw plan ( which it is a good size saw for overall general cutting) than sure, for occasional use I think running a 24 inch with a skip chain will be just fine. Just won't win a speed cutting contests but who cares it will get your oaks cut up. Then just go back to the 20 inch with regular chain for your usual stuff

Some folks might tell you it's fine with a regular chain. But in hardwood that buries a bar that long you might be surprised to find it actually cuts slower than it would with a skip chain. Sure you have more cutters on the regular chain but without high power ( or more ideal power) to pull them it's possible the saw might bog down and pull the regular chain slower. Where with the skip chain you have less cutters but less chance it will bog down and your chain speed will be less effected. So you actually might cut faster. Not sure just my opinion nothing tested obviously.
 
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I haven't run a (Husky) 460 either, but based on experience with other 60cc saws I'd concur with Woodhog. It's a safe bet that your saw won't drive a 24" bar worth of full comp chain to it's full potential. I'd expect skip chain to perform at least as well as full comp, and it takes less time to sharpen, too. Go for it.
 
I haven't run a (Husky) 460 either, but based on experience with other 60cc saws I'd concur with Woodhog. It's a safe bet that your saw won't drive a 24" bar worth of full comp chain to it's full potential. I'd expect skip chain to perform at least as well as full comp, and it takes less time to sharpen, too. Go for it.
OTOH, I've found, as have others, that a Dolmar 6100 (61 cc) is quite happy with full-comp 24" bar buried in hardwood. Noodling too. IME skip chain is of interest on longer bars for chip clearance. YMMV
 
OTOH, I've found, as have others, that a Dolmar 6100 (61 cc) is quite happy with full-comp 24" bar buried in hardwood. Noodling too. IME skip chain is of interest on longer bars for chip clearance. YMMV

As I mentioned never ran a Husky 460 but a Dolmar 6100 I have logged some time on. Not my personal saw but a buddy has one in is tree service fleet.

I'll certainly agree the Dolmar is a very strong 60cc saw. But the one I've run didn't impress me in the hardest of dense wood with a 24 inch bar on it. My 2172 barely impresses me and sometimes it doesnt. Now my 661 well that puts a smile on my face every time if I've got to bury a long bar in hard wood. You got yours ported or still stock ? The one I've run gets abused there's a few different people using it

But it comes down to what people have for tools / saws, etc. and what they are used to. If a person has never run say a 661 then the Husky 460 will be just fine with a 24 inch bar on it. But then if that person runs the 661 on the same big hard wood they probably won't want the 460 back for that application. I know a guy down the road from me who uses a Stihl 036 for everything. He's run longer bars than 24/25 on it and he doesn't care how long it takes to cut wood. I think he should get a bigger saw because I know he cuts some pretty big trees but he likes his 036.

Everyone's got their preferences. If it were me though on a Husky 460 if I had to run a 24 inch bar Id want a skip chain on it.
 
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As I mentioned never ran a Husky 460 but a Dolmar 6100 I have logged some time on. Not my personal saw but a buddy has one in is tree service fleet.

I'll certainly agree the Dolmar is a very strong 60cc saw. But the one I've run didn't impress me in the hardest of dense wood with a 24 inch bar on it. My 2172 barely impresses me and sometimes it doesnt. Now my 661 well that puts a smile on my face every time if I've got to bury a long bar in hard wood. You got yours ported or still stock ? The one I've run gets abused there's a few different people using it

But it comes down to what people have for tools / saws, etc. and what they are used to. If a person has never run say a 661 then the Husky 460 will be just fine with a 24 inch bar on it. But then if that person runs the 661 on the same big hard wood they probably won't want the 460 back for that application. I know a guy down the road from me who uses a Stihl 036 for everything. He's run longer bars than 24/25 on it and he doesn't care how long it takes to cut wood. I think he should get a bigger saw because I know he cuts some pretty big trees but he likes his 036.

Everyone's got their preferences. If it were me though on a Husky 460 if I had to run a 24 inch bar Id want a skip chain on it.

My 6100 is purely stock. Can't see any reason to go otherwise, it's so powerful, per measurement w/dyno. And, I expect to breathe the air where it's been running. No workaround on that for me.

If I've to tackle a really big blowdown, the Husqy 576 gets the call. In 3' red oak, with full-comp 28" bar buried it's impressive, tossing rooster-tail. Don't blink or you'll miss it. AT is impressive.
 
Thanks for all the information. I think ill start w a skip tooth. ill report back if i get it going soon.

When i get home im going to make sure i cant cut up these oaks w my 20in bar. If i can ill prob just do that for now and avoid the super giant rounds of firewood in the future (like i was advised to do haha)
 
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Thanks for all the information. I think ill start w a skip tooth. ill report back if i get it going soon.

When i get home im going to make sure i cant cut up these oaks w my 20in bar. If i can ill prob just do that for now and avoid the super giant rounds of firewood in the future (like i was advised to do haha)

I put a 24" bar with a skip tooth on my Dolmar 6100 for exactly the reason you are thinking, to tackle the once in a while big jobs. I have yet to run a bigger saw (like woodhog mentions) so for me it works well. I have a friend that's getting a 394xp and I'm really looking forward to trying that (although it may spoil me)!

But I don't think I'd avoid the big rounds, the skip tooth should be good and then you and noodle with the 20" which won't take too long. I'll be curious to hear how it goes, my brother has that same saw, but I don't think he's ever run over a 20" bar.
 
If I've to tackle a really big blowdown, the Husqy 576 gets the call. In 3' red oak, with full-comp 28" bar buried it's impressive, tossing rooster-tail. Don't blink or you'll miss it. AT is impressive.


I think that is where the AT play a big role. Sometimes the reason chainsaw bog down is cause of the mix is not right for the heavy Job and stress when you find a bigger trunk or harder wood regardless of how rich you turn them.
Auto tune is constantly adjusting to altitude, humidity, temperature, mix depending on demand. Good feature. I love mine.
 
Yup, I'd go skip tooth on that.
 
I have a friend that's getting a 394xp and I'm really looking forward to trying that (although it may spoil me)!

It probably will spoil you but then again after awhile running that big saw in the woods ( and not just ground cutting logs cause that's not as tiring as harvesting and processing standing trees lol ) .......you will probably be smiling just as much when you switch back to your light and nimble 6100 ( compared to a 394)

side track but I've wondered when Dolmar will stop offering their 64cc saw because it's bigger and heavier than a 6100 and I really not sure if it's got much on a well tuned 6100 in the woods.
 
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It probably will spoil you but then again after awhile running that big saw in the woods ( and not just ground cutting logs cause that's not as tiring as harvesting and processing standing trees lol ) .......you will probably be smiling just as much when you switch back to your light and nimble 6100 ( compared to a 394)

side track but I've wondered when Dolmar will stop offering their 64cc saw because it's bigger and heavier than a 6100 and I really not sure if it's got much on a well tuned 6100 in the woods.

Very good point - I always get a smile on my face when I start cutting with the 6100, same as when I fire up the CR250. I know either could kill me, maybe that's part of the fun, lol, ==c
 
same as when I fire up the CR250. I know either could kill me, maybe that's part of the fun, lol, ==c

Previous rider myself. Cr250 ? I had a 1989 cr250 back when it was new. Love the old 2 stroke dirt bikes. 45 Hp of pure craziness.

If only we could get HP out of saws like 2 stroke dirt bikes. Case in point. Kawasaki KX 60 kids dirt bike 60cc roughly 12 to 15 Hp your Dolmar 6100 60cc roughly 4.5 hp.

125cc 2 stroke motocross bike from the 1990s like a Cr 125 roughly 25 to 30 hp. Stihl 880 122cc roughly 8.5 hp.

Come on saw makers give us some real HP from those 2 strokes :)
 
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I got a cr 250 the first year they came out. Wow what a bike! They made everything else look like they was in reverse. Had to be around 1975 or so. I remember 218 pounds and I think it was 27hp. Wish I had one now I loved that thing. Long and low unlike the tall short bikes they have now. Still ride but its been on Harleys for many years now. Still do a wheelie or a burnout occasionally though lol.


To the OP I run a 25" on my ms 360 with a skip tooth. I like it much better than the 20"
 
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I just got the new model of Husqvarna 465 and got it with a 24" bar.
Not using a skip tooth chain and seems to cut fine.
But have had issues with starting as its a autotune carb.
Its in shop now and they are replacing the carb.
 
We're running an Echo CS590 with a 24" bar here on the farm and it seems fine with a reg. chain. It was only like $10 to bump it up to the 24" bar and chain so we figured get it with the 24" and find a 20" on ebay or somewhere for a lot less than we could a 24" for.
 
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I think that is where the AT play a big role. Sometimes the reason chainsaw bog down is cause of the mix is not right for the heavy Job and stress when you find a bigger trunk or harder wood regardless of how rich you turn them.
Auto tune is constantly adjusting to altitude, humidity, temperature, mix depending on demand. Good feature. I love mine.
IMHO, not so much- little altitude variation for me. The 576 is just a notably bigger beast than the 6100. Neither have a problem with the most difficult New England hardwood. Of course I'm borderline-obsessive about chain condition. Both of them respond well to full-skip chains when running longer bars. Me too, with less filing. Just don't want to have to maintain a whold smorgasbord of chains- KISS applies here too.
 
Update on my Husqvarna 465 not starting very well and then not running well.
After having it in for warranty at a Husqvarna shop.
I ended up figuring out it was the Fuel tank vent issue.
When I would crack open the gas cap then close it would start fine.!!!