I bought this splitter at Lowe's back in April of 08 and it has split about 20 cords total.( Model 570, honda engine. ) Earlier this year, there was a small leak where the top of the valve is connected to the valve body. ( with two allen bolts) My auto mechanic put a new o ring in it. It seemed to work fine. It now has another 25 hours of running time and the leak has reappeared. Any suggestions. Is this a quick fix or am I looking at a new valve. Thanks in advance for your replies. Other than this leak, I haven't had any issues , it's a work horse.
Hydraulic leak on Troy Bilt 27 ton splitter
- Thread starter Jim41
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
If the leak is coming from under the cap at the end opposite the handle the problem is damaged o-rings on the spool.The cover at the rear of the valve is a dust cover it is not intended to seal.
It is leaking at the end under the cap as you described, on the end opposite the control handle.. Is this an easy fix? I'm wondering why is started leaking after the original o ring was replaced. I'm thinking of checking in with a local dealer about repair....I just don't want to buy a new valve at this point if I don't have to.. thanks for your reply...
The 0-ring material might not be compatible with hydraulic fluid or there could be a scratch or burr on the spool.
Yep, a spool that is not smooth will take out an o-ring pretty fast (and 25 hours is pretty fast). As TT said also, not all o-rings are created equal.
I have the same problem with mine.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/37676/
I've now had it apart and replaced the o-ring 3 times. I couldn't find a burr, but each time it seems to fail faster.
Someone suggested that it might be backpressure in the return line. How would one test this?
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/37676/
I've now had it apart and replaced the o-ring 3 times. I couldn't find a burr, but each time it seems to fail faster.
Someone suggested that it might be backpressure in the return line. How would one test this?
Like this?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98892
The o-ring appear to be completely obliterated. Flattened and shredded. The first time it happened, it looked like it was just a little out of shape. This was after a lot of use. The most recent time was halfway through the first split after not using it for a few months.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98892
The o-ring appear to be completely obliterated. Flattened and shredded. The first time it happened, it looked like it was just a little out of shape. This was after a lot of use. The most recent time was halfway through the first split after not using it for a few months.
5000 good guge for pressure side, but back pressure on return side should b a couple hundred psi. Look for a 600 or 1000 psi gauge to test that side.
Good point Kevin. I doubt that it is a pressure issue anyhow (it could be, but I doubt it). Sounds like the proper o-ring was not used. Take your O-ring to a hydraulic shop and buy a replacement from them. If possible, take your whole valve assembly to make darn sure you get the right one.
Check both the spool AND the bore that it rides in... Especially look at any port openings that the o-ring crosses.
Also, return pressure should be close to ZERO, definitely not over 50 psi or so - remember that the return line dumps into the tank, and the only thing that should be putting any restriction in that flow is the filter - which isn't going to take any more pressure than an automobile filter...
(and the pressure side shouldn't be much over 3,000psi at MOST, most splitting will happen between 500 and 1,000, with only the crotches and gnarly bits putting you into the 2,000psi + region.)
Gooserider
Also, return pressure should be close to ZERO, definitely not over 50 psi or so - remember that the return line dumps into the tank, and the only thing that should be putting any restriction in that flow is the filter - which isn't going to take any more pressure than an automobile filter...
(and the pressure side shouldn't be much over 3,000psi at MOST, most splitting will happen between 500 and 1,000, with only the crotches and gnarly bits putting you into the 2,000psi + region.)
Gooserider
I was thinking this was the guy with 3 point splitter and blowing multiple orings. I think his issue is high return line back pressure due to the quick coupler sizes.
On a standard engie powered splitter, return line 10-25 psi in nuetral might be typical, 50 psi when cycling in retract (higher flow back from closed end when cylcing the rod side) could be common, but not cause for concern. Higher than that I would start to look at restrictions.
this one, agreed, the spool OD may be damaged. Most 0rings fit in a groove in the body, the spool rides inside. They should never cross an open port. Brake master cylinders do, but that is another system altogether.
O-rings are inch based (usually) or metric based. They are commodity items, with standardized dimensions (usually) according to 'Uniform numbers' like -020, -118, etc. Some digits indicate cross section (standards are nominal 1/16,, 3/32, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, etc. More often referred to as .070, .103, .139, .210, etc.), and some digit indicate the nominal ID.
Hardware store orings are sometimes neoprene for water service. Won't work for oil.
For petroelum, you want nitrile (Buna N) or viton (for higher temps, not necessary for what you need, but viton would work ok) Nitrile is by far the most common
Hardness: 70 or 90 durometer, either one should be fine at lower pressures.
Are there backup rings on either side of the oring? Some are flat, some are dished to support the oring. Backups prevent the oring from extruding the gap. Cheap valves don't have them. If the oring fits the groove, maybe there were not there in the first place. With backup rings, I'd lean to N70 orings. Without backups, I'd look for N90, but N70 shoud work.
So for example specifiying a -212 N70 oring gives you size dimensions, material and hardness. That description is all any bearing or seal house needs to get the right part. And any vendor almost anywhere in the world works with the same system.
metrics go by ID OD and CS in mm. Materials and hardness are the same as inch based descriptions.
One source for information and dimensions.
http://www.thesealman.com/pages/oring_handbook/pdf_files/epm_oring_handbook.pdf
parker oring handbook is the most commonly used, but I don't have a link for online version.
There is info in the parker book on diagnosing common failures and causes.
On a standard engie powered splitter, return line 10-25 psi in nuetral might be typical, 50 psi when cycling in retract (higher flow back from closed end when cylcing the rod side) could be common, but not cause for concern. Higher than that I would start to look at restrictions.
this one, agreed, the spool OD may be damaged. Most 0rings fit in a groove in the body, the spool rides inside. They should never cross an open port. Brake master cylinders do, but that is another system altogether.
O-rings are inch based (usually) or metric based. They are commodity items, with standardized dimensions (usually) according to 'Uniform numbers' like -020, -118, etc. Some digits indicate cross section (standards are nominal 1/16,, 3/32, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, etc. More often referred to as .070, .103, .139, .210, etc.), and some digit indicate the nominal ID.
Hardware store orings are sometimes neoprene for water service. Won't work for oil.
For petroelum, you want nitrile (Buna N) or viton (for higher temps, not necessary for what you need, but viton would work ok) Nitrile is by far the most common
Hardness: 70 or 90 durometer, either one should be fine at lower pressures.
Are there backup rings on either side of the oring? Some are flat, some are dished to support the oring. Backups prevent the oring from extruding the gap. Cheap valves don't have them. If the oring fits the groove, maybe there were not there in the first place. With backup rings, I'd lean to N70 orings. Without backups, I'd look for N90, but N70 shoud work.
So for example specifiying a -212 N70 oring gives you size dimensions, material and hardness. That description is all any bearing or seal house needs to get the right part. And any vendor almost anywhere in the world works with the same system.
metrics go by ID OD and CS in mm. Materials and hardness are the same as inch based descriptions.
One source for information and dimensions.
http://www.thesealman.com/pages/oring_handbook/pdf_files/epm_oring_handbook.pdf
parker oring handbook is the most commonly used, but I don't have a link for online version.
There is info in the parker book on diagnosing common failures and causes.
kevin j said:
I don't use the quick couplers because of the low flow in the older tractor to begin with. I put tees in the lines to the loader.
- Status
Similar threads
