I Could Use Some Advice

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Jbeau009

Member
Dec 14, 2019
31
Missouri
Hello, all. I am new to the forum and to wood stoves. I have decided to install an NC30 in my living room but I need help with the hearth design. I need an R-value of at least 1.5 and would like dimensions around 48" x 60". The hearth will be free standing away from the wall, over an existing laminate wood floor. I do not want to make any permanent modifications to the house. This is my home but will eventually be rented out. I want the ability to relatively quickly remove the stove and put everything back to normal. I want to be safe and meet or exceed any code requirements. Obviously I would like to keep the budget within reason but I am flexible in this regard if need be.

I have gone back and forth between building the hearth and ordering a hearth in a box. I can't help but feel that I can save plenty of cash and end up with just as good of a product by building it myself. I have considered a 3/4" plywood base with 5 x 1/2" durock sheets with thinset and tile on top. I have also considered springing for micore and doing the 3/4" plywood followed by a durock-micore-durock sandwich. I also have a decent supply of brick.

Any tips, tricks, suggestions, or links to good examples would be greatly appreciated.
 
It sounds like you have done your homework and have a good handle on the options. You could also build a raised platform with an airspace underneath.
 
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It sounds like you have done your homework and have a good handle on the options. You could also build a raised platform with an airspace underneath.

I see a ton of pictures of wood framed hearths and have to wonder how it is okay to have the combustible wood frame so close to the heat. If I need a 1.5 R-value and the air gap in the frame is creating that R-value, it seems counterintuitive to have the frame directly against the durock. Also, I assume durock is the best top layer for the frame. Do you need two sheets to support the weight?
 
That's right, but not wood. I was thinking of a welded metal frame.

A wood-framed platform would need the same protection as you first described.
 
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That's right, but not wood. I was thinking of a welded metal frame.

A wood-framed platform would need the same protection as you first described.

Okay, that makes sense. I haven't really looked into the metal frame option yet. Time to do some research.
 
Sounds like you're set on the NC30, but if not there are other stoves that wouldn't need the insulation value, only ember protection which could just be a piece of sheet metal over the floor.
 
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Sounds like you're set on the NC30, but if not there are other stoves that wouldn't need the insulation value, only ember protection which could just be a piece of sheet metal over the floor.

Yes, the NC30 is already purchased. I probably could have done more research on the hearth first. I watched the youtube hearth building videos and thought "this looks easy" and then realized that what they were building had an R-value around .5 if they were lucky.
 
How about metal studs covered in cement board and a tile that compliments the decor?
 
How about metal studs covered in cement board and a tile that compliments the decor?
I was just looking at that option on a different thread. How thick do the studs need to be to support the weight? The local ones all seem to be c-channel and pretty light duty.
 
What are the minimum dimensions as per your stove instructions? These work fine (what I used) and if it's only temporary an easy solution. I put a sheet of cement board under mine just for a little extra, but they are rated as type 2 protection and R1.5 by themselves.

(broken link removed)
 
What are the minimum dimensions as per your stove instructions? These work fine (what I used) and if it's only temporary an easy solution. I put a sheet of cement board under mine just for a little extra, but they are rated as type 2 protection and R1.5 by themselves.

(broken link removed)

39" x 52.5"
 
I was just looking at that option on a different thread. How thick do the studs need to be to support the weight? The local ones all seem to be c-channel and pretty light duty.
All I can tell you is that when they all screwed together they a strong. Tighten up the span and the support and I think you’re good to go.
Years back we had to remove a wall in a company to move the machine shop into. Being crazy machinists we thought we’d bash it down with a fork truck. It didn’t work. We had to cut off the drywall and sawzall the sections into pieces.
Couple of years ago I was overseeing a remodel in midtown Manhattan. I was very impressed with the speed and strength of what the guys were doing.
 
I tried looking at your stoves instructions but didnt see the dimensions mentioned. If what you said is correct they are just barely too small I guess.

"The protection must have an R-value of 1.5 (English units) or equivalent (See “Installation on a Combustible Floor”). This stove requires a minimum 39.0” x 52.5” floor protection."
 
For something as important floor protection over a combustible floor, I would go with the various hearth pads on the market that are listed to provide an R-value of 1.5 or greater. Doesn't seem worth the hassle or risk of doing it yourself. Good luck either way!
 
What are the minimum dimensions as per your stove instructions? These work fine (what I used) and if it's only temporary an easy solution. I put a sheet of cement board under mine just for a little extra, but they are rated as type 2 protection and R1.5 by themselves.

(broken link removed)
I'd like to know what insulator they are using to get R=1.5 in a 1/2" thick board.
 
I think tile/brick over a plywood, microcore, cement board sandwich would be the easiest diy route. Commercial products would save time.
Evan
 
I can't help but feel that I can save plenty of cash and end up with just as good of a product by building it myself.
I thought so too, but by the time you spend the time learning how you'll need to build for your setup (I was on slow end of learning curve), what & how to construct, spending time and money on masonry items, especially if you haven't done masonry projects, you're probably not saving much.
That said, knowing what's involved making my hearth pad I'd do it again. It gives you freedom to choose how you want to design and construct. The store bought are OK for rudimentary layouts, but more involved layouts you'll need to build yourself.
Plus it was an interesting & rewarding project.

Lots of great advice and info on this forum.
 
Two thoughts. The first is that the laminate floor will never match the rest of the flooring if you remove it later. The second would be to consider a stove that only needs ember protection (no r-value), which might be more handy if you are going to relocate the stove to a future unkown location.
 
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Go to your local drywall supply house (not box store) and ask what they carry in heavier gauge steel studs and runners. Use 10” on centers with a 16 ga built wall (laying flat) and you could park your car on it. Cover in cement board and finish with the tile of your choice. Just one dudes opinion.

Note: not all cement board is rated for hearth application.
 

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Thank you. I didn't know about Micore SB. 1/2" Micore SB has a 1.47 R value.
(broken link removed to https://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/micore-sb-mineral-fiber-board-submittal-en-IW948.pdf)
 
They have a steel covering over top of it. Dont think that makes up the other .03 R value though. Guess they round up!
 
They have a steel covering over top of it. Dont think that makes up the other .03 R value though. Guess they round up!
Maybe it has an extra thick coat of paint.
 
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