i got a question about the stove board

[KevinTrilloII]

so im really looking into buying a pellet stove and i looked at the manual for the stove i am looking to buy and it says for the floor protection as long as the board that is under is fire retardant there is no need for r value and say that its only is there for there possible embers when clean out the fire box. so do i really need to buy or make a fire board? i have hard wood floors and i really dont see it to be a problem but if it is what would you guys suggest so i dont break the bank buying a stove board

 

[tsmith]

First off, welcome to the forum. Second, it would help to know what stove you are looking at. Some stoves now come with the required floor protection integrated into the stove design. All stoves require some sort of minimum floor protection. I would suggest doing at least the minimum required in the manual. I also think you are misreading the directions somewhat. It says there is no need for "R" value as long as it is fire resistant. "R" value refers to the insulation value. You would not need insulating properties, but you do need some sort of fire protection in the event of hot embers falling on floor when cleaning etc. If you skimp on this and something would happen, you would probably be in a battle with your insurance agent if you didn't at least provide the minimal required protection.

 

[mepellet]

My Harman P61A required a thermal protection board. There are ember protection and thermal protection boards. Sounds like you need an ember protection.

 

[nailed_nailer]

A sheet of tin would be ember protection.

Check with your Stove manual AND Fire Inspector to see what passes in your area..

---Nailer

 

[heat seeker]

Most of these stoves radiate heat downward, so while a metal sheet will provide ember protection, it will not provide any heat protection. I'd be a bit nervous knowing that I was heating a wood floor for hours on end. But that's me, when it comes to fires, I am very cautious.

 

[KevinTrilloII]

hey thanks a ton guys! i actually made my own hearth out of ply wood cementboard and tiles picture is below along with my first burn picture! im actually really excited about this i am actually heading to a place today to pick up three different bags for $10. so far i have tried the green team pellets which are sold at lowes which burn really hotand actually pretty well and last night i tried the premium wood pellets made in Maine MWP but ill writ more on those in a different thread

 

[smoke show]

Does that install meet the manufacturers specs regarding windows?

 

[KevinTrilloII]

Does that install meet the manufacturers specs regarding windows?

sure does! i ran the stove pipe up three feet on the outside wall so that the vent terminates a foot above the window outdoors. the back corners are 6 1/2" from the wall and the stove pipe that you see is 4" away from the wall! i researched extensively before i even bought the stove because that is really the only place to put it also called the fire marshal to confirm

 

[KevinTrilloII]

Does that install meet the manufacturers specs regarding windows?

does that answer your question?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

does that answer your question?

Not completely, is the venting the proper diameter for what has to be an EVL of over 15?

 

[KevinTrilloII]

Not completely, is the venting the proper diameter for what has to be an EVL of over 15?

The Equivalent Vertical Length or the EVL which you are referring to is not over 15 so im still good at 3"

 

[KevinTrilloII]

smokey do you brew beer?

 

[smoke show]

Not to be picky, but I'd like to hear/see your EVL calculation.

 

[DexterDay]

Not to be picky, but I'd like to hear/see your EVL calculation.

Me too. Because three 90° and/or cleanout T's is 15' by itself. If there is 3' inside and 3' outside (up), plus any horizontal sections outside (if any)?.

It appears to be 3". If so, then it seems be over by a bit.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

The Equivalent Vertical Length or the EVL which you are referring to is not over 15 so im still good at 3"

Lets see a ninety behind the stove = 5
a ninety to make the turn to go through the thimble = 10
the three feet to get to the thimble turn = 11.5
the ninety to go up on the outside = 16.5
the three feet out side to get above the window = 18.0
the 1 foot or so to get through the thimble = 19.0

Now you do the calculation for giggles and yes I brew beer.

 

[KevinTrilloII]

Ah I wasn't counting the clean out tee. And sweet I brew as well

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Ah I wasn't counting the clean out tee. And sweet I brew as well

I've got to get my hind end in gear and get some sweet cider or it will be next year before I can sample it. I can't let that happen .

 

[MarkF48]

Just a thought if you haven't considered this already....... spray paint the vent pipe with some heat resistant flat or satin black. It does improve the appearance.

 

[KevinTrilloII]

same here smokey i just bought a bunch of stuff for a pale ale and haven't brewed yet my wife hates the smell. but i didn't mean to ignore your evl question i followed the manufactures recommendations on running the vent pipe and it said you should have 3' of vert for every 90degree used i figured i only used 2 because i didn't count the tee and clean out . it seems to be venting very well. it has a natural flow where i ran the pipe 3' inside first, the only thing it mentions about the 4" pipe is if your above i believe 4,000'. and yes mark i was going to paint the stove pipes a matte black with high temp paint but figured i would wait till the season is done with i clean everything out just the inside tho or i might just use a piece of cardboard and spray with the windows open i dunno ill figure it out haha

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Talk to the folks at England Stove works about your venting.

I would have gone either out and up (yes that means lowering the hole and patching things or up and out meaning another hole and removal and patch at the old thimble.

But talk to England.

I believe you are over limit.