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AppalachianStan said:
stoveguy2esw said:
ansehnlich1 said:
My gut instinct tells me there's not enough draft on this setup......the chimney may be too short. I searched the following for a recommended chimney height but found none....

http://www.fireplacesnow.com/pdf/appalachian_52-BAY_manual_08.pdf


thanks for the PDF bro, though the manual wasnt all that informative (most arent) for what i was looking for.

as for the issue in general, yeah i think its flue related as well though the 14 ft stack i would think would pull the stove if he's got the bypass open. what im concerned with is that we may have a different part of the roof not necessarily next to the chimney which could be causing his issue. he had in a different thread talked about how the stove would burn one day not the next, and he had mentioned "the closest peak" in a post , im curious if there is another higher peak which even if several ft away can cause difficulty

Maybe just not sure on the roof thing the other roof peak is 20' away and only a feet teller then the peak beside the chimney. That would be 2' teller then that roof peak that is 20' away. Should ECO brick take off like a rocket? Thanks you all for you help.


eco bricks are like a big azzed pellet, they need a good kindling base establiched. they are very dry but quite dense so they can ba hard to start a fire with.

are you running with the bypass open?
 
stoveguy2esw said:
AppalachianStan said:
The after burner said:
Need to know what kind of stove this is for starters. If the new gaskets were put in wrong the stove would over heat beacuse too much air wood be getting into fire box. If this stove is a air tight down draft stove. check cat could be blocked up. this would cause your stove to choke. what is your temp outside when burning. I know allot of these new stoves dont like temps above 45 degrees. also check to see were your air control lever is.

This stove is an Appalachian 52 date tested 1985. Last night temp was around 40* todays temp at 11:46 am around 50* No one knows anything about this stove except for a sales man that sells them. He said that this a good stove and has a long burn time. The gaskets are in right as far as I can tell. I have no cats in the stove. How can I over heat the stove when it is not getting enough air? Before I replaced the gaskets it was getting more then than now. I have several threads on here.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/82676/


what the heck is that magnet for on the front by the drsft control? is the draft control covered when you arent adjusting it??????
That is for a door that covers the fan, Air intake and ash pan.
 
stoveguy2esw said:
AppalachianStan said:
stoveguy2esw said:
ansehnlich1 said:
My gut instinct tells me there's not enough draft on this setup......the chimney may be too short. I searched the following for a recommended chimney height but found none....

http://www.fireplacesnow.com/pdf/appalachian_52-BAY_manual_08.pdf


thanks for the PDF bro, though the manual wasnt all that informative (most arent) for what i was looking for.

as for the issue in general, yeah i think its flue related as well though the 14 ft stack i would think would pull the stove if he's got the bypass open. what im concerned with is that we may have a different part of the roof not necessarily next to the chimney which could be causing his issue. he had in a different thread talked about how the stove would burn one day not the next, and he had mentioned "the closest peak" in a post , im curious if there is another higher peak which even if several ft away can cause difficulty

Maybe just not sure on the roof thing the other roof peak is 20' away and only a feet teller then the peak beside the chimney. That would be 2' teller then that roof peak that is 20' away. Should ECO brick take off like a rocket? Thanks you all for you help.


eco bricks are like a big azzed pellet, they need a good kindling base establiched. they are very dry but quite dense so they can ba hard to start a fire with.

are you running with the bypass open?
Yes until I can get it up to temp then close it.
 
AppalachianStan said:
stoveguy2esw said:
AppalachianStan said:
stoveguy2esw said:
ansehnlich1 said:
My gut instinct tells me there's not enough draft on this setup......the chimney may be too short. I searched the following for a recommended chimney height but found none....

http://www.fireplacesnow.com/pdf/appalachian_52-BAY_manual_08.pdf


thanks for the PDF bro, though the manual wasnt all that informative (most arent) for what i was looking for.

as for the issue in general, yeah i think its flue related as well though the 14 ft stack i would think would pull the stove if he's got the bypass open. what im concerned with is that we may have a different part of the roof not necessarily next to the chimney which could be causing his issue. he had in a different thread talked about how the stove would burn one day not the next, and he had mentioned "the closest peak" in a post , im curious if there is another higher peak which even if several ft away can cause difficulty

Maybe just not sure on the roof thing the other roof peak is 20' away and only a feet teller then the peak beside the chimney. That would be 2' teller then that roof peak that is 20' away. Should ECO brick take off like a rocket? Thanks you all for you help.


eco bricks are like a big azzed pellet, they need a good kindling base establiched. they are very dry but quite dense so they can ba hard to start a fire with.

are you running with the bypass open?
Yes until I can get it up to temp then close it.

i assume that you arent able to get it up to temp now though cause you cant get a fire going? ok was just checking.

im still "grinding" on this one, its harder cause i dont know the stove per se. can you even get a kindling fire started with the door cracked open? or does it blow smoke at you even with slightly cracked door?
 
Here is a pic of my roof. Please over look my house that I kind of inherited. I was working on it when I messed may back up.
 

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stoveguy2esw said:
AppalachianStan said:
stoveguy2esw said:
AppalachianStan said:
stoveguy2esw said:
ansehnlich1" date="1323592582 said:
My gut instinct tells me there's not enough draft on this setup......the chimney may be too short. I searched the following for a recommended chimney height but found none....

http://www.fireplacesnow.com/pdf/appalachian_52-BAY_manual_08.pdf


thanks for the PDF bro, though the manual wasnt all that informative (most arent) for what i was looking for.

as for the issue in general, yeah i think its flue related as well though the 14 ft stack i would think would pull the stove if he's got the bypass open. what im concerned with is that we may have a different part of the roof not necessarily next to the chimney which could be causing his issue. he had in a different thread talked about how the stove would burn one day not the next, and he had mentioned "the closest peak" in a post , im curious if there is another higher peak which even if several ft away can cause difficulty

Maybe just not sure on the roof thing the other roof peak is 20' away and only a feet teller then the peak beside the chimney. That would be 2' teller then that roof peak that is 20' away. Should ECO brick take off like a rocket? Thanks you all for you help.


eco bricks are like a big azzed pellet, they need a good kindling base establiched. they are very dry but quite dense so they can ba hard to start a fire with.

are you running with the bypass open?
Yes until I can get it up to temp then close it.

i assume that you arent able to get it up to temp now though cause you cant get a fire going? ok was just checking.

im still "grinding" on this one, its harder cause i dont know the stove per se. can you even get a kindling fire started with the door cracked open? or does it blow smoke at you even with slightly cracked door?
Yes I can get the kindling going with the door open but if I close the door even after 45mins it dies.
 
AppalachianStan said:
Here is a pic of my roof. Please over look my house that I kind of inherited. I was working on it when I massed may back up.

hey , no worries on the house. its a roof, better than many have. the flue setup looks fine hard to tell from teh angle but it seems to be ok, so we'll let that one go, its not a 10-3-2 rule issue.

next thing, your other post said you CAN build a kindling fire but when yo uclose the door no matter how hot you get it it dies out right?
this is good in a way , it means the flue is pulling, but bad as its not pulling strong enough through the stove to pull it when the door is closed.

are the joints in the single wall sealed with a sealer? or taped so we have no air intrusion in the pipe joints? this wouldnt matter with an old cast iron leak box but it does with a welded out (airtight) stove. you see , chimneys are lazy, they will pill all they can from the easiest point they can get it. when the door is cracked, its easy, when door shuts its harder as the openings arent as big as the doorway. so the chimney will pull through leaks in pipe joints, at teh collar or anywhere else it can get air easier than through the stove. OUR TASK is to take away these options and force the chimney to have to pull through the stove. assuming the pipes arent sealed up
 
AppalachianStan said:
stoveguy2esw said:
AppalachianStan said:
stoveguy2esw said:
AppalachianStan said:
stoveguy2esw" date="1323594084 said:
ansehnlich1" date="1323592582 said:
My gut instinct tells me there's not enough draft on this setup......the chimney may be too short. I searched the following for a recommended chimney height but found none....

http://www.fireplacesnow.com/pdf/appalachian_52-BAY_manual_08.pdf


thanks for the PDF bro, though the manual wasnt all that informative (most arent) for what i was looking for.

as for the issue in general, yeah i think its flue related as well though the 14 ft stack i would think would pull the stove if he's got the bypass open. what im concerned with is that we may have a different part of the roof not necessarily next to the chimney which could be causing his issue. he had in a different thread talked about how the stove would burn one day not the next, and he had mentioned "the closest peak" in a post , im curious if there is another higher peak which even if several ft away can cause difficulty

Maybe just not sure on the roof thing the other roof peak is 20' away and only a feet teller then the peak beside the chimney. That would be 2' teller then that roof peak that is 20' away. Should ECO brick take off like a rocket? Thanks you all for you help.


eco bricks are like a big azzed pellet, they need a good kindling base establiched. they are very dry but quite dense so they can ba hard to start a fire with.

are you running with the bypass open?
Yes until I can get it up to temp then close it.

i assume that you arent able to get it up to temp now though cause you cant get a fire going? ok was just checking.

im still "grinding" on this one, its harder cause i dont know the stove per se. can you even get a kindling fire started with the door cracked open? or does it blow smoke at you even with slightly cracked door?
Yes I can get the kindling going with the door open but if I close the door even after 45mins it dies.


what about splits, will they burn off the kindling with the door cracked? and they even die when door is shut?


stay with me on this, we'll figure it out, im too hardheaded to just give up on it
 
stoveguy2esw said:
AppalachianStan said:
Here is a pic of my roof. Please over look my house that I kind of inherited. I was working on it when I massed may back up.

hey , no worries on the house. its a roof, better than many have. the flue setup looks fine hard to tell from teh angle but it seems to be ok, so we'll let that one go, its not a 10-3-2 rule issue.

next thing, your other post said you CAN build a kindling fire but when yo uclose the door no matter how hot you get it it dies out right?
this is good in a way , it means the flue is pulling, but bad as its not pulling strong enough through the stove to pull it when the door is closed.

are the joints in the single wall sealed with a sealer? or taped so we have no air intrusion in the pipe joints? this wouldnt matter with an old cast iron leak box but it does with a welded out (airtight) stove. you see , chimneys are lazy, they will pill all they can from the easiest point they can get it. when the door is cracked, its easy, when door shuts its harder as the openings arent as big as the doorway. so the chimney will pull through leaks in pipe joints, at teh collar or anywhere else it can get air easier than through the stove. OUR TASK is to take away these options and force the chimney to have to pull through the stove. assuming the pipes arent sealed up

No the stove pipe is not sealed.
 
I had a hard time getting the stove pipe in. so taped will have do for now. I will have to go to lowe's tomorrow to get the tape.
 
AppalachianStan said:
I had a hard time getting the stove pipe in. so taped will have do for now.

ok, taped is ok. were they already taped or are you saying you will tape them.

if the pipes arent currently sealed it may have quite a bit to do with the problem. so , definately , get some of the silver tape and hit every seam you can find. if you want to see if this is an issue first, take a lit match, after getting your fire started, and closing the door trace the lit match around the seams and joints ogf the pipe see if the flame is pulled toward the seam.

EDIT: im getting growled at, gonna have to call it a night. i'll check back in the morning.
 
stoveguy2esw said:
AppalachianStan said:
stoveguy2esw said:
AppalachianStan said:
stoveguy2esw said:
AppalachianStan" date="1323594720 said:
stoveguy2esw" date="1323594084 said:
ansehnlich1" date="1323592582 said:
My gut instinct tells me there's not enough draft on this setup......the chimney may be too short. I searched the following for a recommended chimney height but found none....

http://www.fireplacesnow.com/pdf/appalachian_52-BAY_manual_08.pdf


thanks for the PDF bro, though the manual wasnt all that informative (most arent) for what i was looking for.

as for the issue in general, yeah i think its flue related as well though the 14 ft stack i would think would pull the stove if he's got the bypass open. what im concerned with is that we may have a different part of the roof not necessarily next to the chimney which could be causing his issue. he had in a different thread talked about how the stove would burn one day not the next, and he had mentioned "the closest peak" in a post , im curious if there is another higher peak which even if several ft away can cause difficulty



Maybe just not sure on the roof thing the other roof peak is 20' away and only a feet teller then the peak beside the chimney. That would be 2' teller then that roof peak that is 20' away. Should ECO brick take off like a rocket? Thanks you all for you help.


eco bricks are like a big azzed pellet, they need a good kindling base establiched. they are very dry but quite dense so they can ba hard to start a fire with.

are you running with the bypass open?
Yes until I can get it up to temp then close it.

i assume that you arent able to get it up to temp now though cause you cant get a fire going? ok was just checking.

im still "grinding" on this one, its harder cause i dont know the stove per se. can you even get a kindling fire started with the door cracked open? or does it blow smoke at you even with slightly cracked door?
Yes I can get the kindling going with the door open but if I close the door even after 45mins it dies.


what about splits, will they burn off the kindling with the door cracked? and they even die when door is shut?


stay with me on this, we'll figure it out, im too hardheaded to just give up on it

Same times if the door is open good fire. Close the door the fire dies dies out with no flames. Now that manual you have is for the new 52 bay stove.It uses the Phase 2 damper housing it uses 4 cats my stove is phase 1 uses two cats.
 
It seems to me it is an air intake issue.

Before new gaskets- fire fine
After new gaskets- fire not fine

Change? New gaskets are not allowing as much air into the stove as you had going in there before. I would check your air intakes IMHO.
 
Remkel said:
It seems to me it is an air intake issue.

Before new gaskets- fire fine
After new gaskets- fire not fine

Change? New gaskets are not allowing as much air into the stove as you had going in there before. I would check your air intakes IMHO.
Ok you answered my question (forgot how this started) the fire was ok with the old gaskets?
 
Remkel said:
It seems to me it is an air intake issue.

Before new gaskets- fire fine
After new gaskets- fire not fine

Change? New gaskets are not allowing as much air into the stove as you had going in there before. I would check your air intakes IMHO.

+1 to this. I have to wonder as was put earlier if the intake is being blocked by support stones since the stove has no legs.
 
I had all these same issues when getting my Ashley up and running. I found the best cure was sealing the joints in the single wall connector pipe and extending the chimney. Imagine drinking through a straw with holes in it. Same goes with a chimney. These stoves are dependant on a good draft to operate properly.
 
Remkel said:
It seems to me it is an air intake issue.

Before new gaskets- fire fine
After new gaskets- fire not fine

Change? New gaskets are not allowing as much air into the stove as you had going in there before. I would check your air intakes IMHO.

That maybe. I think it is a poor design on the air intake on the stove IMO. I am going to check the stove pipe with incense to see if it draws air in round the joints. I have rechecked the stove for leaks with incense and it is not drawing any air except for the air intake.
 
i would try extending the chimney you can try it with some black pipe as a test i wsould start with the a 3ft extention
 
Some good advice here with the cheap extension, if that dont work try checking for air leaks with a doobie.
 
shawneyboy said:
Remkel said:
It seems to me it is an air intake issue.

Before new gaskets- fire fine
After new gaskets- fire not fine

Change? New gaskets are not allowing as much air into the stove as you had going in there before. I would check your air intakes IMHO.

+1 to this. I have to wonder as was put earlier if the intake is being blocked by support stones since the stove has no legs.

The stove can be used as a insert or a free standing. If it is used as an insert the stove is setting on the floor. IMO I can see how it would draw air from the bottom if it is on the floor. But what do I know I am not a chimney scientist. That way I am here asking the scientist what to do. Thanks for your help.
 
stoveguy13 said:
i would try extending the chimney you can try it with some black pipe as a test i wsould start with the a 3ft extention

I Will have to find some one to put it on.
 
Excuse me if this was asked, how is that setting on the stone, could it be raised up to check underneath?
 
I'd say it's likely that your new gaskets stopped some air leakage into the stove that used to keep your fire stoked.
Leave the bypass open until a good bed of coals and fresh stuff burning. With a small fire/little heat, closing that bypass can snuff a fire.
 
Troutchaser said:
I'd say it's likely that you're new gaskets stopped some air leakage into the stove that used to keep your fire stoked.
Leave the bypass open until a good bed of coals and fresh stuff burning. With a small fire/little heat, closing that bypass can snuff a fire.

That what I am doing right now. so far so good. It is 47* outside. damper and air is wide open, Stove top at 350* and stove pipe at 250* 5 mins in to the burn. useing just wood.
 
AppalachianStan said:
Troutchaser said:
I'd say it's likely that you're new gaskets stopped some air leakage into the stove that used to keep your fire stoked.
Leave the bypass open until a good bed of coals and fresh stuff burning. With a small fire/little heat, closing that bypass can snuff a fire.

That what I am doing right now. so far so good. It is 47* outside. damper and air is wide open, Stove top at 350* and stove pipe at 250* 5 mins in to the burn. useing just wood.
Those temps look real good so far, what did you do different?
 
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