ICC Ultrablack leaking creosote.

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Rossco

Minister of Fire
Aug 13, 2014
735
BC
Need some advice, guidance, reassurance or anything in-between.

Woke up to -2C the other morning so I ran the stove last night, I ran it hot. So I went to check it today and found two slivers of creosote coming from the top 45*connector. Well it's all together correctly.

[Hearth.com] ICC Ultrablack leaking creosote.

Here you can see the liquid creosote, although its dry and hard.

[Hearth.com] ICC Ultrablack leaking creosote.

Should I be worried? Or is this just hot flue gasses liquefying the creosote and sealin the system?

Stove still on so cannot pull it to pieces.

EDIT: The wood used MC'ed around 14-18% so I don't think it's that.
 
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Looks like it may be installed upside down. The male crimped end should be pointed down, toward the stove.

How close is the pipe to the ceiling joists or nearest woodwork, or the finished ceiling when it is installed? Code says it needs a minimum of 18".
 
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Looks like it may be installed upside down. The male crimped end should be pointed down, toward the stove.

How close is the pipe to the ceiling joists or nearest woodwork, or the finished ceiling when it is installed? Code says it needs a minimum of 18".

ICC Ultrablack DWP. Only need 6". It's installed correctly, you can see the directional arrow in the first pic.

The stove is into its 18th hour now. Not sure if I should pull the pipes apart.

Basically I don't wanna break the seal and have more come out next time.
 
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Tough call but even though the lower section seems to be correct, I'd be thinking something backwards (or loose) where the DWP connects to the thimble or even just beyond that. somehow those flue gasses are getting through the inner wall and running down the outer pipe in the horizontal run.
 
Tough call but even though the lower section seems to be correct, I'd be thinking something backwards (or loose) where the DWP connects to the thimble or even just beyond that. somehow those flue gasses are getting through the inner wall and running down the outer pipe in the horizontal run.

Yeah I was real Surprised.

Only thing I can think of is : Some build up there and an increase in flue temps caused it to run out. Well Iam hoping this has sealed the pipe.

Head scratcher. Do I load her back up (Cat barley active) or do I let it go cold and pull the joint?

The three sections are new. 45 : 12" : 45.
 
Don't think you should be having anything liquid like that at all, no matter which way the arrows are pointing. Tha liquid stuff is what dries into a hard glaze.

Double wall pipe has the inner pipe crimped, which fits into the pipe underneath it. The outer pipe is for insulation and looks. From the outside, it may look wrong, but it's the inside that counts.
 
Don't think you should be having anything liquid like that at all, no matter which way the arrows are pointing. Tha liquid stuff is what dries into a hard glaze.

Double wall pipe has the inner pipe crimped, which fits into the pipe underneath it. The outer pipe is for insulation and looks. From the outside, it may look wrong, but it's the inside that counts.

For Sure. I have emptied the ash out and it's now cooling down. In the next hour or two am gonna pull it apart.

The liquid is like pure creosote, its now hard, shiny and not coming off.

Maybe it's the 6" section from the thimble to 45. It might have a hole in it or something, if so I will turn it. That's part of the original instillation. I should remove it and 45 right into the thimble.
 
So. I have pulled it apart and its not looking to clever.

[Hearth.com] ICC Ultrablack leaking creosote.

It appears that the inside wall is not sealed against the other skin.

Should I use longer screws and screw all the way through?

[Hearth.com] ICC Ultrablack leaking creosote.
 
Well it ain't installed backwards. That's for sure.

The pipes are pretty clean. Just that shiny crap in the 45's, these 45's are 36" above the stove Collar, the thimble is clean as well as the SS excel chimney.

Anyway I've buttoned it back together and am gonna fire it back up.

Last nights fire was in the 'Norm' zone of the Thermo. So frikin hot. My theory is that the flaky deposits melted and became liquid. Maybe I shouldn't have opened it up.
 
Since that liquid junk was coming from the first joint, I propose that it came from the chimney system. It is colder in the chimney and with the low flue temps at the beginning of the burn there could be condensation in that chimney that could have run down and made this mess before the flue got hot enough to burn off the water.

The brown color in the pipe indicates a generally good burn.

Has it been raining? Do you have a chimney cap? What's it look like outside?

That double wall in the photos looks weird. Really thin and almost built more like single wall. Good news is that it has arrows so you know it is installed properly.
 
Hate to reiterate, but make sure the crimped end fits into the pipe below it tight to seal it
 
Highbeam might be onto something.

Iam hoping its just a one off. We will see tonight.

I never lit the stove last night as I went out. It's a public holiday so no help from a dealer or anything like that.

I took comfort from the forced air pumping all night. :mad:

EDIT: The chimney out side is fine. Cap in place. ICC Excel. The pipe is Ultrablack as I bought it from the same dealer I bought the BK.

The leak came from the bottom joint on the top 45. I was thinking about swapping them.
 
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Well! She's fired up again. Didn't take long to get her active. Its fairly warm out but it's gonna cool off tonight.

Strange thou, when I threw the bypass the cat didnt light up. Also it looks like the flames are reaching into the middle, kinda like the bypass ain't fully closed.

Mmmm more investigation.
 
My princess lit up super fast the first few burns, now I'm at about 12th and with really dry wood it is often not lighting up but the Stat says it's in the active zone. I think you have normal operation.
 
My princess lit up super fast the first few burns, now I'm at about 12th and with really dry wood it is often not lighting up but the Stat says it's in the active zone. I think you have normal operation.

Yeah you bet. I got her to light off earlier on but only when I pushed it a little, I have to run it high due to the warm ambient temps. No leaks or anything so far. I have 80-90c on the DWP joints.

Am hoping it gets up high enough that I can wipe the slivers off the pipe.

Will update either way.
 
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