improving draft, question to pros.
- Thread starter deltaolds
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sorry,
the question is, i have a woodburner that i will use in a tent, it is a guide gear stove, large one, to improve draft on its 3" pipe, should i go with larger 4 inch, or add few feet to 3"?
i'm not sure what it was designed for, but it does not have enoughhot draft, tried to add 3 feet, of 3" pipe, did not do much, (their other model, a smaller one with same pipe works fine, but this one, not really) i also had tree hot sap leak from every joint of factory pipe, i assume if it is not airtight, draft may be lost, or reduced,
will have to replace it with 4" pipe, i have 10' length of 4" EMT, a coupler and a connector, will use fiberglass rope\gasket to seal joints, if necessary .
now i have another question, the valve inside the flue, is it really necessary? the stove will be used in outdoor sauna.
Are you sure the wood is fully dry and seasoned? Damp wood is going to burn poorly.
EMT is not satisfactory. It's galvanized. Use 4" stove pipe. The damper in the flue is helpful to control the fire and improve heat output.
EMT is not satisfactory. It's galvanized. Use 4" stove pipe. The damper in the flue is helpful to control the fire and improve heat output.
maple1
Minister of Fire
If pipe is leaking, sounds like it's put together backwards. And the wood is wet.
we got a bag from home depot, it looked pretty dry, thou i'm not sure of what kind of wood it was.
what will happen if i use emt, it will rust soon? i will be using it handful of times a year, so if pipe dies too soon, not a problem.
the reason i want to use emt, is that i can firmly attach them together, pipes i saw in stores, only go in 1-1,5 inch, and it does not feel like solid connection. they all need to be supported, in my case the pipe will be unsupported, entire length.
Not bad draft but bad ( as in green -not properly dried out ) wood. Creosote dripping is a classic example of wet wood (wet not in the sense of touch but full of moisture trapped in the cellular structure of the wood) Get some of those compressed wood blocks/bricks ( those that no have binder agents in them such as wax) and give that go before blaming the flue/draft. A 4" vs 3" pipe would only slow the draft down. Never ever use galvanized pipe for a flue.
maple1
Minister of Fire
I found this kit, black pipe 4 inch, has a funnel, I do not know much about stoves, but that funnel seems like a restriction, would it work better if the collar was 4" as well? would it improve things in my case? or make worst, no difference?
You don't need the parts in this kit. The 'funnel' is a 4" to 6" pipe increaser.
Really! the only thing you need to do is get dry wood ( internally ) or use the compressed wood blocks I mention earlier. Just for grins find some 2x4s or similar and fire those off. Edumacation can be kinda hard on the knoggin.
As I said before, your description of the burns leaves no doubt that the wood you are trying to use is green. If you are scrounging wood in the location of the tent then look for standing dead trees that the bark has fallen off- the top third of said tree will be pretty decent internal moisture wise. anything below that will be wet internally due to wicking action from the ground up. Dry on the outside is no indication of the internal condition.
Even the simple old style box stove benefit from using dry, internally, fuel.
As I said before, your description of the burns leaves no doubt that the wood you are trying to use is green. If you are scrounging wood in the location of the tent then look for standing dead trees that the bark has fallen off- the top third of said tree will be pretty decent internal moisture wise. anything below that will be wet internally due to wicking action from the ground up. Dry on the outside is no indication of the internal condition.
Even the simple old style box stove benefit from using dry, internally, fuel.
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